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TAIrving

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Everything posted by TAIrving

  1. Very nice Frank. I like both the scene and the octagonal frame. Can you tell us more about the orangeheart wood you mentioned. I cannot find reference to it anywhere. I have used osage orange and am disappointed in how quickly it turns brown.
  2. I keep the light and the magnifier separate. I use store-bought (inexpensive) reading glasses for magnifiers. I like to use stronger magnification for scrolling than I use for reading, but that is personal preference, pick the magnification that works best for you. For lights I use LED sewing machine lights like these EVISWIY Sewing Machine Light LED Lighting (30LEDs) 6 Watt Multifunctional Flexible Gooseneck Arm Work Lamp with Magnetic Mounting Base for Workbench Lathe Drill Press 2 Pack Silver - Amazon.com (also inexpensive). They are light-weight and clip on the side of the scroll saw arm with magnets. Like Occam's Razor, the simplest solution, or maybe the least expensive solution, is often the best solution.
  3. Here in Texas we see them all the time. They are magnificent animals. And that is a beautiful puzzle rendition of a longhorn. Is the pattern available and where can I find it?
  4. Beautiful chess set and a lovely gift for your NATO Branch Head. Please post pictures of the finished set.
  5. Sounds interesting Garry. Please do post pictures as you go.
  6. I bought/used an LED light strip from A**zon for a Christmas diorama last year. It was as you described, 25' long with one power supply and one remote. The way to use it is to cut off the lights you do not need and pitch them. You basically are buying a string of lights as long (short) as you need up to 25'. At the price I did not mind pitching the surplus lights.
  7. Here is one I did for my lady a few years ago as a tag for her birthday present. $2/hour seems about right.
  8. Call Bushton Mfg with the model and serial numbers. They can tell you when it was manufactured and other useful information about it. And you can find the User's Manual for it on their website. The lady who answers the phone (I think her name is Hope) is very pleasant.
  9. It is a "Sickness"(Paul)! and SIL that is "addicted" (Don)' these are strong words. We in the scrolling community prefer to use "Obsession" for our form of "Sickness" / "Addiction".
  10. Very nice Allen. Grandkids are the best! Re blade drift, check the blade tension. Blades do slip and lose their tension and loose blades drift more than tight blades. Also understand that blades have offset; they do not cut along the centerline of the table. And each blade has a slightly different offset. Watch where the blade is cutting and guide the pattern line into the blade's cutline.
  11. Following- looks interesting.
  12. Hummingbird Finding Nectar intarsia pattern by Frank. All pieces cut, now ready to start sanding/shaping. Woods used include Yellowheart, Mexican Persimmon, Cherry, Walnut, and mystery wood.
  13. Greetings from Texas and welcome to the Village. We all struggled getting started. Having someone to talk to about the hobby is a great help and you have that right here at the Village! You will find a mix of others just getting started and asking the same questions you have and experienced scrollers with answers. BTW, what kind of scroll saw do you have? What problems are you having with it?
  14. Very nice things for a new grandchild! You might try painting the screw with the blue paint.
  15. Thanks Frank. That looks very good!
  16. The picture does not show up for me. When I click on the link, I get a tiny unrecognizable something.
  17. The technique described is a plastic dissolved in a hazardous solvent. Spread it on your work and, when the solvent evaporates, you have a thin layer of plastic (of unknown quality) as a finish. You can get that in a rattle can at the local DIY store, they call it polyurethane. You can get it in clear or color of your choice, gloss, semi-gloss or matte. I think the people who make it paid more attention to the quality of the residual plastic finish than did the guy who made the video. Ditto the nature of the hazardous solvent. Or you can get shellac, lacquer, tung oil, etc. I could go on, but you get the idea.
  18. Interesting, but lots of questions. Using a hazardous solvent is #1. Another would be "How durable is the finish?" After the solvent has evaporated, what is left is the expanded polystyrene beads reduced to a thin plastic sheet. Durability would depend on the plastic used to make the beads.
  19. Some finishes include UV inhibitors which will slow down the turning-brown process. Teak oil comes to mind.
  20. Great idea Syd, and well done. Now I am thinking it would be an interesting project for me to do a portrait of myself. You might have started a new trend.
  21. Nice work Gregg! Welcome back to the hobby. Hope to see many more posts of your work.
  22. Following. I am in a bit of a creative funk myself. My last project ended with an unpleasant reaction to sawdust from a particular species of wood. And I have spent a few days dealing with family issues. I want/need to get back in the shop doing creative things, but what?
  23. Thanks all for your insightful replies and suggestions. Redheart sounds like a good alternative to Bloodwood. None of my usual local sources carry it. I will watch for it at Woodcraft: thanks @MarieC for the suggestion. And thanks John @JTTHECLOCKMAN for the beautiful example. Thankfully I was wearing a mask, this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YBWXWYR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I also have a respirator with changeable filters like Ray and Wichita @OCtoolguy and @Wichman suggested. I use that one when painting or doing something that produces organic vapors. My shop vac has HEPA filters so hopefully I did not leave much of the Bloodwood sawdust in my shop. Now onward to the next project, still deciding what.
  24. I have had to stop work on an intarsia project due to a reaction to one of the woods. Has anyone else had this problem? The culprit is Bloodwood. I have cut most of the pieces for the project but have not yet started sanding. It started when I cut the red/Bloodwood pieces. My arms started itching badly and I have scratched my arm almost raw. I dare not try sanding this stuff. I checked out the article on "Wood Allergies and Toxicity" and Bloodwood rates as one of the less offensive woods, but not so for me. https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/ I will have to find a different wood for red highlights.
  25. So, where can we find the pattern? Kevin @kmmcrafts, Denny @Denny Knappen, anyone?
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