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TAIrving

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Everything posted by TAIrving

  1. TAIrving
    Very nice Mike! Glad you could get a machine. I predict you will like your Pegas, I am quite pleased with mine. Welcome back to the hobby and welcome to the forum.
  2. TAIrving
    Thaks for sharing Paul. That is a great use of scraps. And I am impressed with how he stained/colored the wood.
  3. TAIrving
    I did try a nozzle from a used paint rattle can. It sprayed glue fine one time. I turned the can upside down and sprayed until clear but it clogged anyway.
  4. TAIrving

    OUCH!

    TAIrving replied to Hawk's topic in General Scroll Sawing

    That looks painful! Glad to hear it wasn't any worse. I did not know they would cut that much. What size blade were you using? I would not think you could do that with a #1 or smaller. I have touched the back and sides of a scroll saw blade while cutting and was surprised at how hot they get.
  5. TAIrving
    I did that religiously and made it through most of the can but it clogged eventually.
  6. TAIrving
    I managed to resurrect my can of 3M77. The nozzle had clogged and soaking it in MS did not help. The can is down to about 1/4 full and not worth buying new nozzles like these Spray Paint Caps-New York Fat Cap-Spray Can Nozzle-Spray Paint Nozzles for Cans-Spray Paint Tips-25 Pack - Amazon.com. I used a small #60 drill bit in the lower opening of the nozzle, to pull out the dried clog of glue, several pulls and it was clear. It is working now, for how long I do not know. Any drill bit 3/64" or smaller should work.
  7. TAIrving
    Very nice sentiment. I might have to do some of these myself, know some people I could give them to.
  8. TAIrving
    I was in the shop yesterday trying to do a compound cut. But the nozzle had clogged on my can of 3M77 and efforts to unclog it had failed. So I printed my pattern on label paper. But when I tried to attach it to the blank I got too much sawdust on it and it would not stick. Looking around the shop for something to make it stick I settled on my spray can of shellac. It took a little longer to set, but it did stick. The 2nd flamingo is the happy result.
  9. TAIrving
    Refer to the article "Excalibur Scroll Saw - What Happened", published on this forum a few years ago for an interesting read about them and a list of brands manufactured in Taiwan. Note that Pegas is also manufactured there. But there is a plant in China (not Taiwan) that makes a scroll saw like the Excalibur but not necessarily to the same quality standards as those made in Taiwan. I do not know where the Grizzly is made.
  10. TAIrving
    I use an old scrap of wood, approximately 10" x 2" x 1/2" and glue sandpaper to both sides.
  11. TAIrving
    Love the dogs. Pitch the shelf paper. My last dogs, now departed but fondly remembered, were Maltese, not good subjects for a scroll saw pattern.
  12. TAIrving
    I bought my scroll saw about 4 years ago, joined this forum. Like you said, I learned from this great, tolerant and supportive group of people. I thank/blame them/you all for helping me learn this hobby and contributing to my addiction.
  13. TAIrving
    In the Houston area, in addition to the low-end saws, I see one Hegner (overpriced) and one Hawk (very old) plus the PSWoods saw I bought and cleaned up and listed. There is one interesting saw, CUTAWL K9A. I can only guess at the vintage of this one. Vintage CUTAWL K9A PRECISION JIG/SCROLL SAW - antiques - by owner - collectibles sale - craigslist.
  14. TAIrving
    Thank you Wichita @Wichman. And a belated Happy Birthday!
  15. TAIrving
    I cannot find that pattern on her website.
  16. TAIrving
    Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for this? Thanks in advance.
  17. TAIrving
    Wow @Dennis51, that is spectacular! How long did it take you to do that? What are the dimensions? What woods did you use? I am trying to get started with intarsia, my first project is sitting in the shop at the rough sanded stage. I have great thoughts about getting to the point where I can do something that advanced.
  18. TAIrving
    As @rjweb said, it is indeed hot here in Texas. It quit raining a few weeks ago and no more is likely until and unless we get a tropical storm out of the gulf. I am recovering from my cataract surgery, both eyes, and have had to stay out of the shop to avoid the risk of getting sawdust in my eyes. Another week or so and I will be ready to resume woodworking activities. Now if I can pick up the thread of what I was working on....
  19. TAIrving
    Green wood will dry unevenly, from the edges first, and it shrinks as it dries. The cracks, fissures and warping are due to the uneven shrinking. Maybe they disappeared when the wood finished drying throughout. Hopefully, some more experienced woodworkers can chime in on this. Nice cutting by the way.
  20. TAIrving
    As you said Kevin @kmmcrafts, plane first then cut to size. Any tear out on the edges is in the part that will be cut off and discarded. Also, as others have said, make very light passes with the planer. Works for me. You probably will want to sand it to get the final surface.
  21. TAIrving
    This is an excellent (in my opinion) video by Stumpy Nubbs on protection from sawdust. The link was included Steve Good's blog today.
  22. TAIrving
    Kevin, I have posted a few projects I have done using epoxy. But what you are asking is a very different use of epoxy and my experience does not apply. BTW, what kind of wood is that? It is a beautiful slab. Thurman
  23. TAIrving
    According to The Wood Database, IPE and Tigerwood (aka Goncavo Alves) have a lot of similarities. Both are hard, dense woods, tend to dull cutters and are hard to glue. And you probably should wear protection (mask, long sleeves, ...) when working them.
  24. TAIrving
    I am not allowed to operate power machinery after that type of therapy.
  25. TAIrving
    Nice looking shop Charlie. I see you have been busy with the scroll saw!
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