TAIrving
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Everything posted by TAIrving
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Very nice Don.
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Post pictures please. We would love to see these. Regrets I use a different type of scroll saw and cannot advise regarding the Hawk 214.
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Those are really nice Frank. I like the patterns and your renditions are beautifully done. My daughter loves butterflies and I might have to do one of those for her. But I do not care for red oak and will have to use some other wood for hers.
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Very nice cut Charlie. And one of myall-time favorite books/trilogies.
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Judy @ChelCass, when I click on the links, the pictures are too small and I cannot see anything.
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That really is a bad photo.
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@dgmanYes, clear packing tape is difficult to remove from the wood and probably would leave a residue. That is why I suggested using the clear packing tape as the second layer. Layer 1 - something that is easy to remove and does not leave a residue - everybody has their own favorite for this. Layer 2 - clear packing tape for blade lubrication. Place it here so you do not get sawdust under it obscuring the pattern lines. Layer 3 - the pattern.
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Several brands of scroll saw are based on the original excalibur design: see the article " Excalibur Scroll Saw - What Happened?" posted in Resources, Articles in this forum. The Pegas, Seyco and King scroll saws are excellent examples of this design. But the scroll saw now marketed as "Excalibur" is a lower quality version of that same design.
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Why not apply the packing tape first and then glue the pattern on top of it? That way you would get the lubricating effect without any issue of getting sawdust under the tape and blocking the view of the pattern. I assume that you have another/first layer to allow easy removal of the pattern and I am not suggesting changing that, just reversing the order of the top 2 layers.
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Beautiful! That must have taken many hours.
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I do not have an issue with blades breaking. I just cut 2 fretwork crosses using Pegas MGT blades. See my post "Cross" in the Bragging Rights" forum. I cut the cedar cross using one MGT#3 blade and started the white oak cross using the same blade. That blade was not cutting the 1/2" white oak all that well so I changed to an MGT#5 blade. I used just the 2 blades for the 2 crosses.
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These are from a Sue Mey pattern. She has a LOT patterns of crosses. The one on the right is 1/4" cedar and the one on the left is 1/2" white oak (more substantial). Cut on my Pegas scroll saw. I used a Pegas MGT#3 blade for the cedar cross. I started the white oak cross with the same MGT#3 blade but soon changed to a MGT#5 blade. I intend to put a backer on the cedar cross to give it support. I am still deciding how to finish the two of them.
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Welcome back Kevin. Nice to hear from you.
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Nice work Pete. I like them all but I like the vegetable dipping tray best.
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it worked for me too.
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When Thing Go Wrong...B&W Tree and Moon times two.
TAIrving replied to FrankEV's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Reminds me of a favorite poem: Quote by Edgar A. Guest: “When things go wrong, as they sometimes will, W...” (goodreads.com) -
The description of this stuff says it includes silicon. Not good to get that on our wood projects.
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It might be time to replace the tension lever. You can get a replacement here EX-TRK Normal wear parts replacement kit for top tensioner assembly - Seyco.com.
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Should I be concerned about hazardous VOCs when spraying mineral spirits and/or paint thinner in my enclosed workshop?
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I bought a 250 pack a year or so ago and really like them. My observation is that they save the mess, bother, expense of spray glue, and that is good enough for me. But they do stick to the wood and present the removal problems. So, I still use the blue tape or clear shelf liner most of the time.
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I almost never break a blade - Pegas scroll saw and Pegas blades. Very happy with both.
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The blue certainly pops and will get more attention at the first viewing. However I think that a pleasantly coordinated tan or wood-tone or perhaps even gold will be more elegant and will be enjoyed long after the interest in the blue has expired.
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Or miter saw.
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Peruvian Walnut is known to be an eye and skin irritant. See the article at Peruvian Walnut | The Wood Database (Hardwood) (wood-database.com). It is not clear to me if this is from organic vapors or micro-particles. You might want to wear a protective mask when cutting it. Something like this combined with safety glasses should work. Amazon.com: 3M Rugged Comfort Quick Latch Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator 6503QL, Gases, Vapors, Dust, Large : Tools & Home Improvement. I would encourage you to check out the wood you are working on The Wood Database site, especially the section on allergies and toxicities and especially when working with a new to you wood, exotic or otherwise and especially now that you have experienced a reaction to such. Happy cutting! What are you doing with the Peruvian Walnut? Post pictures when it is done.
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How does one decide when to change blades (as in dull)
TAIrving replied to Robert R's topic in General Scroll Sawing
When my blade stops cutting well, tracking well, etc, the first thing I do is reset the tension. If that doesn't work, then I replace the blade.
