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TAIrving

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Everything posted by TAIrving

  1. TAIrving
    Really nice looking @Ron Johnson! What woods did you use? It looks like black walnut for the bodies, maple for the fenders and maybe cherry for the wheels along with some others.
  2. TAIrving
    Al, welcome to the SSV forum. You should be able to cut that pattern on your scroll saw, but it does depend on the size of the blank you are cutting. The 16" dimension is the distance between the blade and the rear of the scroll saw arm - measure it for yourself. Then, after you mount the pattern on the blank, measure the distance from any point on the pattern to the farthest corner of the blank. That is the corner that would hit the arm support when you are cutting that far part of the pattern. So, you might have a problem if you mount a small (less than 16") pattern to a too-large wood blank. Post pictures when you complete your project. We all are impatient to see!
  3. TAIrving
    The basket patterns posted by Steve Good make very nice baskets. He usually recommends they be cut from 1/4" wood and they are cut straight up and down. The backets cut at an angle are a different type altogether. They are cut from thicker wood, 1/2" or even thicker. They make a bowl blank for turning on a lathe. The angle to cut depends on the pattern and the thickness of the wood. I tried this once and the result went to the burn pile. I have this on my list of things to try again in the distant future, emphasis on "distant".
  4. TAIrving
    Not sure where you are but I bought mine from Cherokee Wood Products here in So Cal. Not disappointed. This could explain my disdain for BBP. Early in my scrollsawing journey I purchased some via ebay and was quite disappointed. Later I bought a box of "Project Panels" from HD and found them noticeably better. Then I bought some hardwood panels from various sources, very pleased with those, and that is what I use now. However, more often than not I make my own panels via resaw, glue-up, plane down, etc from cutoffs I get from furniture making friends.
  5. TAIrving
    I also did not know about the air quality monitors, might have to invest in one for my shop. I worry about the fine dust and want to know. I had a cheap shop vac "dust pump" and eventually bought a HEPA rated shop vac that really made a noticeable difference. Amazon.com: Vacmaster Pro 8 gallon Certified Hepa Filtration Wet/Dry Vac : Everything Else I see that the price has gone up since I bought mine. I can see the difference in the visible sawdust and would like to know the status of the fine, invisible dust, the stuff we breath.
  6. TAIrving
  7. TAIrving
    I take mine outside to spray. The weeds don't mind. And the time it takes to bring it back lets the glue dry just a bit before applying the pattern. I also have some of the full sheet shipping labels that Kevin mentioned and I use those often. No spray mess at all.
  8. TAIrving
    I know that - said it wrong, meant to ask if it would affect the ability and limits of the head tilting. James answered the question I intended to ask.
  9. TAIrving
    @James E. Welch Following with interest. I will wait for the reviews but likely will order one of these. 2 questions: 1. Will it fit a Pegas 21" 2. Will it affect the ability to tilt the table top? What is the max tilt with this installed?
  10. TAIrving
    You might try a better grade of plywood.
  11. TAIrving
    Beautiful job Larry! The craftsmanship is impeccable and I really like the choices of wood for each of the parts.
  12. TAIrving
    Happy anniversary Don! Very nice work on the gnome. My wife loves gnomes and I am sure yours will love this one.
  13. TAIrving
    The hummingbird pattern is from Steve Good's post on May 31st. I did not do the box, just the hummingbird pattern. It is done on 3/8" ambrosia maple. The Tree of Life is my second attempt at doing epoxy with this pattern. This time the wood is 1/4" mesquite.
  14. TAIrving
    According to The Wood Database Lilac has variable colors "Colors can be variable depending on species. Sometimes seen with reddish or lavender color streaks throughout the heartwood." Lilac | The Wood Database (Hardwood) (wood-database.com)
  15. TAIrving
    They are both visually attractive. But I like the black one. Red does not seem quite appropriate for the theme.
  16. TAIrving
    Gene, I have not tried scrolling a mesquite panel thicker than 1/4". It is sufficiently strong at that thickness. I usually glue together a couple of pieces to get a panel wide enough for my patterns in order to work around the worst of the flaws. Thurman
  17. TAIrving
    Very nice Dick. Great use of the features of the wood as a part of the picture!
  18. TAIrving
    Thank you all for your kind comments.
  19. TAIrving
    I am still learning about working with epoxy. The Tree of Life is my second attempt. The wood is 1/4" mesquite. Drips & Dragons is a Fiona Kingdon pattern I had cut a year or so ago. I had been trying to figure out how to finish it and this sounded right for it. The wood is 1/4" Monkeypod.
  20. TAIrving
    I stumbled upon this video of Fiona Kingdon doing epoxy pours in her scroll saw projects. Those of us interested in epoxy pours in scroll saw projects might get something out of this, I certainly did.
  21. TAIrving
    Looks great Charlie! I am impressed that you cut it 3 times. And the plexiglass cover looks good. Red Oak and epoxy are NOT a pairing made in heaven. You have to seal ALL the cut edges of the red oak before pouring. I hope you do not give up on epoxy. Having made a couple of mistakes, you are well on your way to learning the craft.
  22. TAIrving
    I just ordered a few Renewal Kits from Seyco, the second time I have purchased these from them. The kits work fine on my Pegas scroll saw. These parts are a normal wear item on the scroll saw and should be replaced when they show signs of wear, i.e. blade slipping. BTW, they are currently $8 at Seyco.
  23. TAIrving
    Yes, seal the wood before you pour, especially if the wood is porous, such as plywood, oak or such, and most especially the edges of plywood. Then you can do a deep pour. I prefer to use a deep pour epoxy. It is thin and fills in all the small places. It is slow to set and I let it set overnight, maybe even 2 days depending on the weather. That gives it time for any bubbles to float to the surface and resolve themselves. I do not use a heat gun to speed the curing as that might cause bubbles and, at the same time, speed the curing to the point that the bubbles do not have time to float to the surface and resolve. Hope this helps. Don't give up just because you had a bad result on the first try.
  24. TAIrving
    @Gene Howe Gene, what brand of epoxy did you use? I used MAS Deep Pour and, as I said, was not successful in getting the level of polish I wanted. @Tj Brown, TJ, can you comment? I see in the tutorial that you use Promise brand epoxy. Are you able to sand/buff to a reasonable lustre? Also, which of the Promise brand epoxies do you use? Looking on A**zon, I see several: labelled "Table Top Epoxy", "Deep Pour Epoxy" and "UV-Art Epoxy".
  25. TAIrving
    @Gene Howe I have been working on this also and have the same question. TJ tells us to sand and then spray with polyurethane. I have sanded up to 1000 grit wet & dry sandpaper and still have not achieved the level of polish I want. Maybe I was too impatient and sanding longer would eventually get there. But I stopped and then sprayed with lacquer and it got significantly better. I am still trying for a really polished finish. If you manage to get there, please tell me how you did it.
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