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Opinions on painting


Dave Monk

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I really don't like to paint projects but people are liking it, especially on sports plaques. I have been painting the backers sports color with a rattle can and  then gluing on my scroll work. When it is dry I put a clear coat over the whole thing. I have had to redo a few projects because of the base paint  coat wrinklied up. I have never had that problem with flat black but I have not found bright colors in flat finishes. I have tried brushing on acrylic craft paint but I am not happy with the brush strokes I get. 

 

I would appreciate you sharing any paint process you use. dave

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I really don't like to paint projects but people are liking it, especially on sports plaques. I have been painting the backers sports color with a rattle can and  then gluing on my scroll work. When it is dry I put a clear coat over the whole thing. I have had to redo a few projects because of the base paint  coat wrinklied up. I have never had that problem with flat black but I have not found bright colors in flat finishes. I have tried brushing on acrylic craft paint but I am not happy with the brush strokes I get. 

 

I would appreciate you sharing any paint process you use. dave

I spend way to much time on projects and no matter what they like it.I'd like to leave an impression so i could get repeat work but that's not happening enough  to go the extra mile,In fact I've gone 10 extra miles to impress and nothings changed,I'm at wits end to generate more work?I've hand painted beach scenes on over 800 names ,I did absolutely nothing in my pocket?

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While not often I have painted backers with both latex and acrylic paints (non black) and had no issues with applying a clear rattle can spray after final assembly. I have used spray can lacquer, poly, and shellac. I normally wait two full days or longer for the paint to dry before assembly. Weather permitting I will even put them in the sun for a couple hours to help the drying process.

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While not often I have painted backers with both latex and acrylic paints (non black) and had no issues with applying a clear rattle can spray after final assembly. I have used spray can lacquer, poly, and shellac. I normally wait two full days or longer for the paint to dry before assembly. Weather permitting I will even put them in the sun for a couple hours to help the drying process.

Scott has hit on the most important part.......Let it get dry......really dry....I was to impatient at first and had bad results....like ti try and airbrush someday .

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I have not painted any scroll work, yet, but I use to make cigar box guitars and ukuleles and painted a lot of them.  I would experience the "wrinkling" of the paint once and a while.  Even when applying a second coat of the same paint.  I never figured it out, other than the not letting the first coat completely dry before applying the second. But not sure that is really the cause because it did not always happen. 

Edited by Scrappile
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Dave try water based acrylic paint.  You can get sample containers mixed to your color specification OR you can go to the craft stores and pick up the pint acrylic paint its water based, cleans up easy, no offensive odor and it dries fast. and most important is it takes a finish quite well without warping or other issues.

 

 

DW

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If you don't like paint, but want to be able to get the variety of colors, maybe dye's could be an alternative.  I've just recently been experimenting with fabric dyes, because they are readily available and cheap.  So far I like what I've been seeing.  Some woods take the dye better than others, but it leaves the wood grain show through, which I like.  Also, I haven't had any problems with glue adhering to dyed wood.  I have had problems with painted wood.

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Dave, what are you using for a top coat, are you using lacquer or are you using a varathane type finish? It's the finish coat that is causing the wrinkles, and it's an easy problem to solve. What's causing the problem, is the lacquer based finishes. You won't have wrinkle problems, if you use water based paints for the base coats. If you use oil based paints, you risk the chance of wrinkles every time. What's happening, is that the lacquer is raising the base paint. It's reacting to the hardeners and chemicals in the paint. The two different types of chemicals used to make paint and lacquer, react to each other. You can get the wrinkle effect, if the paint is fresh or if it's been on there for years. It's how lacquer works with base coats, it tries to attach itself to to finish in the base coat of paint, rather than just lay on the top of the lower coating. Which is what a varathane type of finish does, it just lays on top of the previous coatingTo avoid getting the wrinkle effect, switch to using a varathane type finish. The chemicals in it, don't react to the chemicals in paint. I'm sure you can get a better understanding, if you did a search on the subject. I've explained it as I understand it, I hope you understand my explanation.

Len

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Some paints are not compatiable with others. There is a big differance  between dry and cured. Some paints you can touch and they feel dry but the paint has not cured. Most people think that if you can touch it and it doesn't stick to your finger its ok (dry). Everything dries from the outside in. The outside part might be dry but not the inside, its still drying.  If you spray the clear coat on (to early) before its cured you have curled paint.  That said you just need to give the 1st coat time to dry as someone suggested. Hope this helps.

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