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Blue painter's masking tape


orangeman

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When using temporary bond adhesive on patterns and then packaging tape over the pattern I find that is difficult to sand the adhesive off entirely. The result is a blotchy effect when I dip a puzzle piece in food coloring.

I have solved the problem by adhering blue painter's masking tape to the wood and then adhering the pattern over the tape. There appears to be no residue left by the blue tape.

The only downside is that it takes a little more time to remove the blue tape from the puzzle pieces.

The end result is that I wind up with much better colored pieces.

I have not tried clear packaging tape on wood  instead of the blue masking tape because I know it would take much longer to remove the clear tape.

For those not familiar with the advantages of tape, it is used as a lubricant for the blade and prevents burning of very hard woods; blades last longer too.

I believe it was Mike M. (of flying dutchman fame) that discovered it is the lubricant on the tape - to prevent the tape sticking together on the roll - that is the secret ingredient for us scrollers.

bb

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I have read quite a bit lately about using a clear adhesive shelf liner versa blue tape.  Come in a roll. suppose to remove easier, be cheaper and easier to apply.  I'm going to give that a try soon.  Before using blue tape, I cleaned the residue with mineral spirits.  It cleans it good, but you have to wait a long time for it to dry before you can do anything else on the project.

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Just now, orangeman said:

I just checked on the price of shelf liner and the cheapest roll I could find was $5.64 for a 3 sq ft roll or $1.88/sq ft. - shipping extra.

I just bought two rolls of 2.88" x 60 yard blue tape for $21.95. That comes to $0.25/sq ft including shipping.

bb

3sq ft?  Are you sure you read it right?

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If you're using large boards, the shelf liner is the way to go... I use 6' long boards.  I simply roll it out, stick it to the wood, spray it with adhesive, lay the patterns on it and start cutting.  If you're using small pieces of wood/board, I could understand maybe using blue painters tape although it still takes longer to apply one strip at a time.

P.S. if you order it from Walmart, it's free shipping with a purchase of $35

IMG_20171002_102037.jpg

Edited by Iguanadon
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1 hour ago, Iguanadon said:

If you're using large boards, the shelf liner is the way to go... I use 6' long boards.  I simply roll it out, stick it to the wood, spray it with adhesive, lay the patterns on it and start cutting.  If you're using small pieces of wood/board, I could understand maybe using blue painters tape although it still takes longer to apply one strip at a time.

P.S. if you order it from Walmart, it's free shipping with a purchase of $35

IMG_20171002_102037.jpg

Right on Iggy. I bought a roll and it works just as you say. It's a lot better, faster and cheaper to use than blue tape. Thanks for the heads up.

Ray

 

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I use painters tape, and I like the method. I did buy a roll of the clear shelf paper to try sometime.

Years ago I gave up on using clear packing tape under a pattern. Getting it off the wood was a nightmare, it would come off in little bits and pieces and I always missed some until I was trying to finish it. 

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I use contact brand shelf liner and blue tape at times. I actually rather blue tape method (sticks better) but when cutting intarsia trying to be as accurate as possible the blue tape seems to pull up in the kerf and hide the blade a litte. Not too bad but enough to cause me to loose sight of the blade at times. That's me anyway. My favorite method is spray back of pattern and stick directly to wood but then you run into the glue residual as mentioned above. I guess nothing is perfect. I'm going to try duck brand shelf paper tho. Thanks.

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I just bought a roll of clear contact paper at Walmart the other day and I tried it with a pattern and its way easier to use than tape. I turn it over and it shows a grid and I lay my rectagular or square pattern board on it and cut it off with an xacto knife, peel off the backing and stick it on and roll with a rubber roller, supper 77 spray my pattern and stick it on. I notice I don't get the tape buildup mixed with sawdust when I saw, much easier to see where I am. 

Bill

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15 hours ago, Brianr24 said:

I use contact brand shelf liner and blue tape at times. I actually rather blue tape method (sticks better) but when cutting intarsia trying to be as accurate as possible the blue tape seems to pull up in the kerf and hide the blade a litte. Not too bad but enough to cause me to loose sight of the blade at times. That's me anyway. My favorite method is spray back of pattern and stick directly to wood but then you run into the glue residual as mentioned above. I guess nothing is perfect. I'm going to try duck brand shelf paper tho. Thanks.

Same thing here. But only when using Reverse tooth blades.With me it happens more with the shelf paper.Maybe because it has more adhesive

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On 12/7/2017 at 12:26 PM, orangeman said:

When using temporary bond adhesive on patterns and then packaging tape over the pattern I find that is difficult to sand the adhesive off entirely. The result is a blotchy effect when I dip a puzzle piece in food coloring.

I have solved the problem by adhering blue painter's masking tape to the wood and then adhering the pattern over the tape. There appears to be no residue left by the blue tape.

The only downside is that it takes a little more time to remove the blue tape from the puzzle pieces.

The end result is that I wind up with much better colored pieces.

I have not tried clear packaging tape on wood  instead of the blue masking tape because I know it would take much longer to remove the clear tape.

For those not familiar with the advantages of tape, it is used as a lubricant for the blade and prevents burning of very hard woods; blades last longer too.

I believe it was Mike M. (of flying dutchman fame) that discovered it is the lubricant on the tape - to prevent the tape sticking together on the roll - that is the secret ingredient for us scrollers.

bb

Good to know,i paint most of mine so no worrys,I sure miss Mike ,great guy to deal with and isten too!

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This topic has come up on forums over here in the UK and the same opinions came up. I think that I must be very lucky with my technique because I've never had a problem with using re-positionable spray glue on my patterns. I sand the wood with 120 grit then spray the back of the pattern with the glue, give the wood a wipe down with a cloth, stick the pattern down. If it's thick wood or I think it'll burn the cutting then I'll apply clear packing tape after drilling the holes then poke the holes with a bradawl. After cutting, the pattern just comes off, then a quick sand with 240 grit and then finish, usually with Danish Oil. I have found that using 100gsm instead of the run of the mill 80gsm paper also helps.

happy scrolling

Steve

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On 12/9/2017 at 4:18 AM, loftyhermes said:

This topic has come up on forums over here in the UK and the same opinions came up. I think that I must be very lucky with my technique because I've never had a problem with using re-positionable spray glue on my patterns. I sand the wood with 120 grit then spray the back of the pattern with the glue, give the wood a wipe down with a cloth, stick the pattern down. If it's thick wood or I think it'll burn the cutting then I'll apply clear packing tape after drilling the holes then poke the holes with a bradawl. After cutting, the pattern just comes off, then a quick sand with 240 grit and then finish, usually with Danish Oil. I have found that using 100gsm instead of the run of the mill 80gsm paper also helps.

happy scrolling

Steve

I don't even have sand paper in my shop.  :-)  I am soooo lazy.  LOL

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