Need pointers

[Dusty Trucker]

So just got done cutting my first real  project. It was a steve good design. I put it on some 1/2 in plywood that i found. I used a fd ultra reverse #7the entire time. I tried a #3 and it broke almost immediately.  I cant seem to stay on the line for the life of me. And my lines are as wavy as a flag in the wind!  Does that just come with time or should i have used something different. Just looking for pointers.

Thanks

[jerry1939]

Some things that come to mind:

1.  Blade tension.  With no wood on the table, give it a good tension.  Pluck the blade with a fingernail.  It should "twang" like a guitar string.  If your saw has the silly tension numbers, ignore them.  Tension by feel, because each time you move the blade from one hole to another, it will be slightly higher or lower.
2.  FD blades are stamped from 1 side when manufactured.  As you face the blade, sharp teeth stick out on your right.  The left side of the blade is smooth.  Position yourself off to the right of the saw and convince your brain that the "back" of the table is actually off to the left.   

Realize that scroll saw blades don't cut straight lines very well.  Take your time.  You cannot push straight to cut a straight line.

Hopefully others will chime in.

jerry

[Foxfold]

I've no real answer for you as I generally only cut ¼" ply and for that I use a #3. I use Niqua blades as they are easy to get over here.  Perhaps your blade tension wasn't quite right, if it's a little loose the blade can bend a little and so not follow as straight a line as you wanted. I was always guilty of 'pushing' the wood into my blades without realising it and consequently broke blades for fun and couldn't cut a straight line for toffee... I know some on here us a #5 for just about everything they do.  Someone will no doubt come up with a better answer, the people on here are brilliant at giving sound solid advice.  I think you did a great job on the cross though, it looks good.

Edited September 15, 2019 by Foxfold

[Phantom Scroller]

I use a number 5 for most my work and for straight lines just keep it moving but don't force it the blade will do the work make sure your table is smooth I use a PTFE spray on mine then you can move the piece with ease. Just draw some squares on a piece of scrap it is practice, practice, practice . Roly

[teachnlearn]

1 hour ago, jerry1939 said:

Some things that come to mind:

1.  Blade tension.  With no wood on the table, give it a good tension.  Pluck the blade with a fingernail.  It should "twang" like a guitar string.  If your saw has the silly tension numbers, ignore them.  Tension by feel, because each time you move the blade from one hole to another, it will be slightly higher or lower.
2.  FD blades are stamped from 1 side when manufactured.  As you face the blade, sharp teeth stick out on your right.  The left side of the blade is smooth.  Position yourself off to the right of the saw and convince your brain that the "back" of the table is actually off to the left.   

Realize that scroll saw blades don't cut straight lines very well.  Take your time.  You cannot push straight to cut a straight line.

Hopefully others will chime in.

jerry

Steve Good created software that gives the sound of a proper tension blade. Simply gives the sound of getting to the right pitch. More effective then trying to explain it. Software is from Steve Good. RJF

blade(2).zip

[Wichman]

Practice, practice, practice. then practice some more. Even now with 35 yrs of experience, if I get a new material or if I am trying a new blade, I will take the time to practice with it until I know how it will act. If you are adjusting the blade tension then you need to make some practice cuts with each change. Change only one thing at a time,i.e. blade, material, tension until you get it dialed in, then write yourself a note. Sometimes just writing it will help you remember, sometimes a dry ease board on the wall in back of the saw, and sometimes a journal.

[JimErn]

My goto blade is the pegas modified geometry#3, and I have used it on wood like that.

Along with what everyone said about blade tension, is eye sight.  Everyone has a dominant eye, I found that if you sit so the dominant eye is on line with the blade following the line is much easier.  But it also comes with practice.

As stated, the blade is typically stamped so that when it is installed and you are cutting, the teeth protrude to the right slightly, and as a result the blade may tend to drift that direction.  So some help is to cut the pattern in a direction where that tendency to drift is drifting into the scrap.  Then you can keep the blade running and get back on line and or use the running blade to trim/shave the waste from the line.

Finding your dominant eye is easy.  With a straight arm point your index finger (both eyes open) at door knob across the room.  Don't move, close first one eye and then the other, the eye that is open and you are still pointing at the door knob is the dominant eye.

[teachnlearn]

I have had a scroll saw in storage for years and will finally be able to use it again. Over the years I've developed a few medical conditions, like spasms. Going to be a adventure figuring out how to adapt tot the scroll saw. RJF

[Wichman]

49 minutes ago, teachnlearn said:

I have had a scroll saw in storage for years and will finally be able to use it again. Over the years I've developed a few medical conditions, like spasms. Going to be a adventure figuring out how to adapt tot the scroll saw. RJF

Make sure that you have  foot switch that shuts off when you let up on the pressure. So if you have issues the saw automatically shuts off.

 

[Sycamore67]

Time will tell help as you get the feel.  Scroll saw work looks easy but not so.  I do not worry about drift but only worry about staying on the line.  

Try practicing following straight lines,curves and circles on scrap wood.  I think 1/2 plywood is much harder to cut than solid wood.  But every wood cuts differently and every blade cuts differently. Take your time.

[Foxfold]

1 hour ago, JimErn said:

Don't move, close first one eye and then the other, the eye that is open and you are still pointing at the door knob is the dominant eye.

Oh WOW,,  I'm still on the doorknob with my 'right' eye, however I'm way off with my left. !!!  Heaven help me,  it's a wonder I can scroll anything 

[fredfret]

My left eye is almost blind. When I do this test my hand dosen't move I'm right eye dominant. 

[teachnlearn]

1 hour ago, Wichman said:

Make sure that you have  foot switch that shuts off when you let up on the pressure. So if you have issues the saw automatically shuts off.

 

I have some blades in storage with the scroll saw. Been so long in storage, they maybe made out of stone. Thanks RJF

[teachnlearn]

2 hours ago, JimErn said:

My goto blade is the pegas modified geometry#3, and I have used it on wood like that.

Along with what everyone said about blade tension, is eye sight.  Everyone has a dominant eye, I found that if you sit so the dominant eye is on line with the blade following the line is much easier.  But it also comes with practice.

As stated, the blade is typically stamped so that when it is installed and you are cutting, the teeth protrude to the right slightly, and as a result the blade may tend to drift that direction.  So some help is to cut the pattern in a direction where that tendency to drift is drifting into the scrap.  Then you can keep the blade running and get back on line and or use the running blade to trim/shave the waste from the line.

Finding your dominant eye is easy.  With a straight arm point your index finger (both eyes open) at door knob across the room.  Don't move, close first one eye and then the other, the eye that is open and you are still pointing at the door knob is the dominant eye.

I'm confused. When I use a wheelchair, I push the door open button. Do I point at the door knob or the nonexistent door open button that isn't in my apartment? I think I'm left foot dominate, which is the direction I go when I fall. Thanks, RJF

[JimErn]

13 hours ago, Foxfold said:

Oh WOW,,  I'm still on the doorknob with my 'right' eye, however I'm way off with my left. !!!  Heaven help me,  it's a wonder I can scroll anything 

{smile}  The brain takes that stereoscopic image from both eyes and combines them into one image, so to speak.  I found that sitting with the item in front of the dominant eye seems to help reduce any parallax error that stereoscopic image produces.

Much like a sharpshooter can keep both eyes open, but only "sees" what the dominate eye sees through the scope.

[Dusty Trucker]

3 hours ago, JimErn said:

{smile}  The brain takes that stereoscopic image from both eyes and combines them into one image, so to speak.  I found that sitting with the item in front of the dominant eye seems to help reduce any parallax error that stereoscopic image produces.

Much like a sharpshooter can keep both eyes open, but only "sees" what the dominate eye sees through the scope.

So i started sitting with my right eye looking down the line. And also keeping in mind that the blade is gonna want to naturally drift to the right helped out tremendously. Thanks for all the pionters eveyone!

[Scrappile]

When I first started scrolling, the best advice I received, and worked the best for me, was " relax, let your shoulder drop down, breath normal".  Who ever told me that was correct.  I noticed, that as I scrolled, I would tense up, my shoulders would be up around my ears and I would be holding my breath.... As soon as I noticed that, I would relax my shoulder and pay attention to breathing.. I started enjoying scrolling.. If I got off a line a little, I didn't make a quick correction to get back to the line, I slowly worked back and when done, I didn't even notice where I was off pattern.  It is only a pattern, a guide and no one stays on the line 100% of the time, well I can't really back that up but I don't believe any one can.  Sometime I purposely go off the like to give a little more "beef" to a delicate area. 

[Wilson142]

I agree with Scrappile, patterns are more of a suggestion as where to cut than they are absolute laws. I also adjust the bridges and some of the fret work depending on how the wood is acting. Sometimes I add a hole, other times I may ignore one or even marry two.
                             " I would tense up, my shoulders would be up around my ears and I would be holding my breath..."      Now you can save that stress for when it's time to remove the pattern and do some sanding on delicate fretwork projects. That's the only time I get nervous. Sucks to mess it up at that stage of the game. Get 'er in a frame and then it's beer o'clock at my house.  lol

[Jim McDonald]

Experience is a cruel task master, but in the field of ANY woodworking, you will learn something on every project.

Practice will help, but @Scrappile said the most important thing--relax. This hobby is for enjoyment. We are our worst critics and we all get frustrated at times. Sometimes, the best cure for my frustration is to walk away for a period of time. Sometimes, it's 5 minutes, others may be 5 days

 

[teachnlearn]

Every time you drift off the scroll line, have a shot. You will find you will get more and more relaxed as you cut. RJF

[Foxfold]

57 minutes ago, teachnlearn said:

Every time you drift off the scroll line, have a shot. You will find you will get more and more relaxed as you cut. RJF

I'd be off my trolley and on the floor within an hour every time I sat at my machine. !!!!  

[Hermit]

My pointers would be a foot switch right off the bat. Harbor freight has them pretty cheap  about $15.00 if I remember right. They have 2 kinds. You want the one where it's on with one click and shuts off with another. 

Good lighting and then some more lighting. I also use a magnifying light which really helps. 

I personally only use 2 drill bits now both which I'm able to use in my drill press. A 1/16" and a number 61 which I order off Amazon. 

A dust mask, ventilation, box fan with a filter etc. 

Never stop challenging yourself. I like to pick patterns I like but also patterns that challenge me. Lots of straight lines, circles, letters, etc. 

 

[Denny Knappen]

Wow, you got some good advise.  Something not mentioned, keep you first project and hang it on the shop wall.  As you progress with practice, you can look back to your first and be amazed at the progress.

[Charlie E]

Lots of great advise. I second Hermit's comment about the magnifying lamp. I didn't get one till I'd been scrolling about two years and was amazed how much my scrolling improved when I could actually see the line. I got a cheap one at Harbor Freight and it's holding up fine. In addition to the great advise on how to stay on line I'd also say it's like learning to drive. At first you have to concentrate so hard to keep it in your lane and eventually you make corrections without thinking about it. I think your cross is great for a first effort. Better than mine anyway. If it was too easy it wouldn't be rewarding. Welcome to a great hobby.

[Dusty Trucker]

Thank you all so much for the wisdom you have shared with me... its a lot to digest. But i will slowly check everything off the list. The lighting will be the first. I have junk for lights right now.