Charlie E Posted August 27, 2023 Report Posted August 27, 2023 (edited) I seem to be breaking more blades lately. I have a Hegner. I almost exclusively use a FDUR #1 and I'm usually cutting 1/2" hard wood and I do like to run it really snug, so it stands to reason that's a lot of stress on a smallish blade, but I don't think I used to break this many. Usually over a dozen per project. They are breaking off in the top holder/quick clamp. I've attempted sanding/dressing both the quick clamp and set screw in the upper holder but I'm still breaking lots of blades. Any suggestions Hegner users? How exactly do you dress your contact points in the quick clamp? Edited August 27, 2023 by Charlie E OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Wichman Posted August 27, 2023 Report Posted August 27, 2023 How much wiggle do you have in the quick clamp? Replace the quick clamp. Charlie E 1 Quote
Charlie E Posted August 27, 2023 Author Report Posted August 27, 2023 10 minutes ago, Wichman said: How much wiggle do you have in the quick clamp? Replace the quick clamp. I'm not sure what you mean by wiggle in the quick clamp. At first I did find that the screw you tighten the quick clamp in with was a bit loose and tightened it hoping I'd found the problem but it had no effect. It all seems fairly rigid now. Quote
Wichman Posted August 27, 2023 Report Posted August 27, 2023 I was letting the QK wiggle just a bit, but in reading the instructions again I will tighten it up. I haven't dressed the faces in the QK until tonight, I bought a replacement QK in July due to slippage, I wanted a part that worked, so I could get things made. Now that I have a spare I can play around with dressing the faces. The manufacturer does state the the QK will break more blades than the standard clamps and that it's a trade off for the quickness of blade changes. You may have gotten a batch of blades that's just a little touchy about it. Charlie E and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote
Scrappile Posted August 27, 2023 Report Posted August 27, 2023 Yes the Quick clamp is suppose to be held tight in the top holder. This little article in worth a read. I don't remember if this is where I learned that the QC needs to be held tight. but it has good information in it. I do remember I broke a lot of blades before I read about it needed to be held tight in the holder. WOD_HEGNER_QUICK_CLAMP_vs_STANDARD_BLADE_CLAMPS.docx Charlie E and Wichman 2 Quote
Sycamore67 Posted August 27, 2023 Report Posted August 27, 2023 I am very surprised at a #1 on 1/2" hardwoods. I would expect you would break blades. I would use a FD Polar #3 or #5. Besides being very thin in a tough wood, A small reverse type blade does not clear the sawdust well. I do not think it is the clamp but rather the type of blade. Charlie E, Jim Finn and OCtoolguy 2 1 Quote
Charlie E Posted August 27, 2023 Author Report Posted August 27, 2023 18 minutes ago, Sycamore67 said: I am very surprised at a #1 on 1/2" hardwoods. I would expect you would break blades. I would use a FD Polar #3 or #5. Besides being very thin in a tough wood, A small reverse type blade does not clear the sawdust well. I do not think it is the clamp but rather the type of blade. Reading everyone's comments, I'm leaning towards it being a combination of the small blade, thick hard wood, pushing too hard and the fact that the quick clamp causes more breakage. Seems like it's gotten worse but I've usually cut red oak and I've been cutting more white oak which is harder. I'll try slowing down. Quote
Sycamore67 Posted August 27, 2023 Report Posted August 27, 2023 Why do you cut such woods with a small blade? I think you are asking for problems. it is not the quick clamp that is the problem Jim Finn and Charlie E 2 Quote
Charlie E Posted August 27, 2023 Author Report Posted August 27, 2023 2 minutes ago, Sycamore67 said: Why do you cut such woods with a small blade? I think you are asking for problems. it is not the quick clamp that is the problem I do mostly smallish portraits and anything larger just doesn't work with the small detail. I prefer hardwood to plywood so it's a necessary evil I suppose. Wichman 1 Quote
preprius Posted August 27, 2023 Report Posted August 27, 2023 I am not a hegner owner. But I do use #1 blades on 3/4" maple, and black walnut. Even 1/2" purple heart. I rarely break blades Polar 1 , MGT, skip . Charlie E 1 Quote
Sycamore67 Posted August 28, 2023 Report Posted August 28, 2023 Big difference between skip and ultra reverse. Quote
Dave Monk Posted August 28, 2023 Report Posted August 28, 2023 I never dress the thumb screw on my quick clamp. I usually don't use a #1 unless I'm cutting thin stock. A Pegas MGT #3 or #5 works for me on almost anything I make. I do brake more blades on my Hegner than Pegas. Charlie E, Jim Finn and OCtoolguy 1 2 Quote
Charlie E Posted August 28, 2023 Author Report Posted August 28, 2023 10 minutes ago, Dave Monk said: I never dress the thumb screw on my quick clamp. I usually don't use a #1 unless I'm cutting thin stock. A Pegas MGT #3 or #5 works for me on almost anything I make. I do brake more blades on my Hegner than Pegas. I guess blade size and wood hardness/thickness is most likely my problem. Don't really want to change that though. Oh well, I'll just have to keep ordering by the gross. Quote
Dave Monk Posted August 28, 2023 Report Posted August 28, 2023 7 hours ago, Charlie E said: I guess blade size and wood hardness/thickness is most likely my problem. Don't really want to change that though. Oh well, I'll just have to keep ordering by the gross. To me it's a good thing to try new things.......now and then you find a better way. Charlie E 1 Quote
Charlie E Posted August 28, 2023 Author Report Posted August 28, 2023 4 hours ago, Dave Monk said: To me it's a good thing to try new things.......now and then you find a better way. Touché! Quote
rash_powder Posted September 5, 2023 Report Posted September 5, 2023 I bought my saw used with a quick clamp. After using if for some time I took the thumb screw out - I was having blade slipping problems and wanted to inspect it. I found the little pad would not spin freely. I'm not sure it needs to, but it seemed it should since the design allows it. I pulled it apart, cleaned and lubed it. May help you, may not. Just something I noticed on my saw. Charlie E, OCtoolguy and Wichman 2 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted September 9, 2023 Report Posted September 9, 2023 On 9/5/2023 at 9:38 AM, rash_powder said: I bought my saw used with a quick clamp. After using if for some time I took the thumb screw out - I was having blade slipping problems and wanted to inspect it. I found the little pad would not spin freely. I'm not sure it needs to, but it seemed it should since the design allows it. I pulled it apart, cleaned and lubed it. May help you, may not. Just something I noticed on my saw. Just be careful of the lube you use. I have read here somewhere that the rubber o-rings don't like certain oils/greases. I use Valvoline synthetic grease for most things. Charlie E 1 Quote
Joe W. Posted September 10, 2023 Report Posted September 10, 2023 19 hours ago, OCtoolguy said: Just be careful of the lube you use. I have read here somewhere that the rubber o-rings don't like certain oils/greases. I use Valvoline synthetic grease for most things. I picked up a small tube of Danco Silicone Grease and use it on my o-rings whenever I swap out the little pads. I came across that recommendation to use silicone - I think from Steve Good, but don't hold me to it (so many thoughts to keep track of ) Quote
Charlie E Posted September 11, 2023 Author Report Posted September 11, 2023 (edited) 13 hours ago, Joe W. said: I picked up a small tube of Danco Silicone Grease and use it on my o-rings whenever I swap out the little pads. I came across that recommendation to use silicone - I think from Steve Good, but don't hold me to it (so many thoughts to keep track of ) What are you referring to when you say swaping out the little pads? I wasn't aware you could buy any parts for the quick clamp. Or maybe you're referring to a saw other than a Hegner. Edited September 11, 2023 by Charlie E Quote
Scrappile Posted September 11, 2023 Report Posted September 11, 2023 @Charlie E on the end of the screw is this little cap (arrow pointing to it), It stops turning with the screw when it touches the blade. You can pull it off and clean it and put a little light grease on it to ensure it does not keep turning as the screw turns. You can buy them though Advanced Machinery Hegner, but probably pay twice what you would if you bought them for any other scroll saw camp. Pretty sure they are all the same. OCtoolguy and Charlie E 2 Quote
Charlie E Posted September 11, 2023 Author Report Posted September 11, 2023 Thanks. I knew about the little cap as I had one to disappear once. I didn't know you could get it without ordering the entire Quick Clamp. I haven't been able to find them on Advanced Machinery's site, or anywhere else. Quote
OCtoolguy Posted September 12, 2023 Report Posted September 12, 2023 12 hours ago, Charlie E said: Thanks. I knew about the little cap as I had one to disappear once. I didn't know you could get it without ordering the entire Quick Clamp. I haven't been able to find them on Advanced Machinery's site, or anywhere else. Ray at Seyco sells them Charlie E 1 Quote
Charlie E Posted September 12, 2023 Author Report Posted September 12, 2023 (edited) @OCtoolguyThank you! Edited September 12, 2023 by Charlie E Quote
Joe W. Posted September 12, 2023 Report Posted September 12, 2023 On 9/10/2023 at 9:05 PM, Charlie E said: What are you referring to when you say swaping out the little pads? I'm late checking on messages. Yeah, what Ray said. Charlie E 1 Quote
Charlie E Posted September 13, 2023 Author Report Posted September 13, 2023 (edited) On 9/11/2023 at 8:25 PM, OCtoolguy said: Ray at Seyco sells them 16 hours ago, Joe W. said: I'm late checking on messages. Yeah, what Ray said. Is this what you're referring to? It's a bit different than the one on my Hegner. The Hegner one has 2 o rings. Are they interchangeable? Edited September 13, 2023 by Charlie E Quote
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