JTTHECLOCKMAN

Dick that came out real well. It is funny because I just pulled that pattern from Steve's files yesterday because I liked the pattern also. Great job.

Thanks all I copied and put in a folder off site for future reference.

This will probably get moved but it is the forum I am most use to. How do you save a thread for myself so I can find it again easily?? I have some patterns drawn for me by someone and want to be able to reference them many times. They are within a thread I started and not the library. Thank you.

parts https://oldworldaccents.net/pyramid/pyramid-candles-replacement-parts.html?p=2

As I said I believe it was a design change due to making it easier to get at that rod. You could call them and talk with them or I believe they have a place for questions on the site. http://www.bushtonmanufacturing.com/WebsitePages/Contact-Us.html

I sit also and no you do not have to tilt the saw. You find the most comfortable position and go from there. All my saws are flat. I do stand at my hegner. I will stand at a sw if I am scrolling large pieces because the corporation in front gets in the way when spinning.

OK that is good and now what is it you want to know.??

This is the reason many times people question my work weather it was laser cut or scrollsaw. Many people do not even know what a scrollsaw is.

Jim what is the model number and serial number of each saw?? Which saw is which( indicate this. )I believe the saw with the tension arm extend out the back is the newer model because of ease to change tension. They probably had complaints of chubby fingers not being able to get at the rod. All saws today are outside the back braces. There were many versions but the the ultra was before the G4 and that was before the BM series. But I believe there was a series called the pro series before the ultra. I have the model in the second picture where the tension rod is not sticking out past the framing and I believe I bought mine in 93 or 94. I got one of the first saws where they went to the square blocks for clamps in stead of the barrels. So whatever year that was. The arms on both those saws are the same except for length. They changed the arm somewhat by reducing weight. maybe on the one where the tension rod is behind the frame the bottom of the top arm is hollowed out more than the other one to make up for the extra weight. You should be able to feel that. The G4 is where they started the I beam frame on those arms and carried over and improved on the BM series. The clearance on both saws should be the same. Measure center of blade to back of frame. As far as making the arms the same forget it. tension them the same way. All calculations were incorporated when made. As I said I have not touched that tension rod in years. The only time is when I switch to jewlers blades because they are so brittle and need less tension. If you want to know year of saw call RBI and ask them. They will know with serial number. If you do let us know what they say.

Kevin is correct on this.

Another Jersey guy here. Welcome aboard.

Done it with router. If doing with scrollsaw I always start with thicker wood then final piece needed so that when inlayed I can sand flat.

Kevin would probably be a good source of info for this question because he uses various platforms to sell his projects and is quite successful at it. There are some good threads in the business forum here that touch on selling at different venues that you might want to check out also. But will say this there is no half way thing if you are thinking of selling. If you want to do this legit you need tax id numbers and record keeping and whole lot other legistic paper work as well as inventory. To sell a few items on FB is possible Good luck.

With me I give a show 3 strikes. Bad for 3 straight years it is off the list and onto something else. Shows run their course as do items we make. Sometimes it is a matter of changing hands of running it and it does not get the promotion it once did. Others it just a change because the committee does not do enough to add new vendors or change things up and it gets stale. When doing shows, vendors and promoters rely on each other for success.

I dip in Danish oil like I do all my projects. If I need to top coat it is always lacquer.

My answer is do not bend it. Not worth the effort. If you need the curve then make staves and do it in pieces. Angle cut the sides so that it forms the arc needed and glue back together. Much more stable.

Have to be careful using military insignias and selling items. They are like Disney and colleges with liscening

I agree the price thing is so subjective and when you get better you get faster and more efficient so labor wise those won't add up. I have been doing this for many years and just have a feel for items after awhile. You get a catagory and make your prices just about the same and add if you have to use better material or more of it. The $10/hr thing always seemed like a fair number but as I said this will change with experience so. Whatever you do establish a price and do not waiver from it. Do not start charging friends and relatives different prices because they all talk. I believe the numbers given above are fair. Remember too location and customer base differ from seller to seller. Good luck and get busy. I have a shelf my brother and his wife want me to make but have to put it off because I have so many other projects going on. I also know no money there to be made

Not sure how to read this one. I guess if you are selling to dignitaries not bad but to vets themself there would be either sales or give aways. I know a person that goes to alot of corporations and sets up either in lunch rooms or lobby and does great sales especially around holidays. He has been doing this for quite some years and is sole income. Does quite well.

About 10 years ago I worked on a solar panel system on top of a FedX roof. It was a large system because they had alot of flat roof. I use to walk the grounds around the outside of the building and I saw package after package laying on the ground. What happens is the conveyor system that goes into the trucks for the drivers to load their trucks just keeps packages coming and if they do not keep up they spill over onto the ground or floor inside if your lucky. One day I stopped to pick a few packages up to just put inside the building and I got a ration of garbage for touching them. they said they have some one come around and pick these up. But I saw packages that must have been there for days if not weeks. soak and wet and just mangled. You never know how your packages are handled for sure. It is amazing to watch those conveyor systems in action.

The question is what look are you going for?? Whatever you do it will be bland because there is no grain to absorb the stain to make it different shades along the piece. You would be better painting it. If you want to try staining use a gel stain and not an oil stain. There are people who will take a comb and run it through after stained or a wire brush to give lines and texture. Can do this with paint as well.

This company also makes a great rust loosener. I used it on some tough projects I could not get loose and works better than anything I ever found.

I use to have a lumber yard like that which was my go to source for all woods exotic to BB. They had a fire 2 years ago and never brought it back. I miss that place. I have found another not that much further from them so that is now my go to place. But what little BB I use I did get from Amazon and was excellent quality. Price wise I never did shop it around so can not comment.

I use a fluorescent magnifier light. I remember years ago I only used it for the light well now I can not scroll without it for both.

You have to be specific as to what you are making. I make alot of desk clocks and are 5/8" thick to accommodate the insert. I make shelves napkin holders, plaques all from 3/4" oak. I make mirrors from 3/4". I use all sizes and thickness depending on the project. No set dimensions.