JTTHECLOCKMAN

I dip in Danish oil like I do all my projects. If I need to top coat it is always lacquer.

My answer is do not bend it. Not worth the effort. If you need the curve then make staves and do it in pieces. Angle cut the sides so that it forms the arc needed and glue back together. Much more stable.

Have to be careful using military insignias and selling items. They are like Disney and colleges with liscening

I agree the price thing is so subjective and when you get better you get faster and more efficient so labor wise those won't add up. I have been doing this for many years and just have a feel for items after awhile. You get a catagory and make your prices just about the same and add if you have to use better material or more of it. The $10/hr thing always seemed like a fair number but as I said this will change with experience so. Whatever you do establish a price and do not waiver from it. Do not start charging friends and relatives different prices because they all talk. I believe the numbers given above are fair. Remember too location and customer base differ from seller to seller. Good luck and get busy. I have a shelf my brother and his wife want me to make but have to put it off because I have so many other projects going on. I also know no money there to be made

Not sure how to read this one. I guess if you are selling to dignitaries not bad but to vets themself there would be either sales or give aways. I know a person that goes to alot of corporations and sets up either in lunch rooms or lobby and does great sales especially around holidays. He has been doing this for quite some years and is sole income. Does quite well.

About 10 years ago I worked on a solar panel system on top of a FedX roof. It was a large system because they had alot of flat roof. I use to walk the grounds around the outside of the building and I saw package after package laying on the ground. What happens is the conveyor system that goes into the trucks for the drivers to load their trucks just keeps packages coming and if they do not keep up they spill over onto the ground or floor inside if your lucky. One day I stopped to pick a few packages up to just put inside the building and I got a ration of garbage for touching them. they said they have some one come around and pick these up. But I saw packages that must have been there for days if not weeks. soak and wet and just mangled. You never know how your packages are handled for sure. It is amazing to watch those conveyor systems in action.

The question is what look are you going for?? Whatever you do it will be bland because there is no grain to absorb the stain to make it different shades along the piece. You would be better painting it. If you want to try staining use a gel stain and not an oil stain. There are people who will take a comb and run it through after stained or a wire brush to give lines and texture. Can do this with paint as well.

This company also makes a great rust loosener. I used it on some tough projects I could not get loose and works better than anything I ever found.

I use to have a lumber yard like that which was my go to source for all woods exotic to BB. They had a fire 2 years ago and never brought it back. I miss that place. I have found another not that much further from them so that is now my go to place. But what little BB I use I did get from Amazon and was excellent quality. Price wise I never did shop it around so can not comment.

I use a fluorescent magnifier light. I remember years ago I only used it for the light well now I can not scroll without it for both.

You have to be specific as to what you are making. I make alot of desk clocks and are 5/8" thick to accommodate the insert. I make shelves napkin holders, plaques all from 3/4" oak. I make mirrors from 3/4". I use all sizes and thickness depending on the project. No set dimensions.

Goes out in the trash and in the landfill.

Yea I don't do any of that. Like a said simple piece of thick rubber and it solved that years ago. I do not touch the lever and have not for a long time so I do not oil it lube it or touch it. My control is in the front arm. If a number blade I am using is longer than my usual #5 I just cut the tip off to make fit.

Jim just a quick note being you mentioned rattle or someone did, That handle on the back tension wedge can sometimes work it way over to the arm and rattle against it. I put a piece of rubber on the arm to prevent this. Maybe something to watch for. Good luck with new saw. Hope many projects come off it.

If all works it still a very good deal. You get to at least try it being it is a pickup. Good luck. Good to see the Hawk family growing here.

If you are spray finishing in the same shop you do woodworking all I can say is good luck man. Dust and finish do not mix but as YOU elegantly said TO EACH HIS OWN. Love your jabs.

I guess I did not use enough of these. Another suggestion if the air conditioner covers won't work, Harbor Freight sells many size tarps that probably can work. Maybe a outdoor grill cover will work. Here is a site that has all kind of covers. http://www.the-cover-store.com/equipment-covers/outdoor-full-air-conditioner-covers?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BING | OUT | AC | SEARCH&utm_term=air conditioner covers&utm_content=OUT | AC | SEARCH | US | Air Conditioner Covers

Wow we are now babying our saws. Do you need to put a heater under the cover too to keep it warm at night. None of my tools in my full woodworking shop have ever had covers and that includes 4 scrollsaws. If you really need one them maybe an air conditioning cover may work. Home Depot have them for cheap money. Do they get dust on sure but so what, it will not effect bearings and anything else on them. They are made to get dusty.

This thread can apply here as well. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/29481-stain-first-or-glue-up-first/

I use this on all my tools http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

Looks like you did well. There is no blade in it so that wedge moves around easily from transporting it. Great price and great saw. Looks just like mine. Will say this those plastic blade clamp holders under the table get stretched out over time and it can cause the holder to jump to a different notch position. They are cheap enough to have plenty of spares. I made one from some spring steel to replace them. Good luck with new toy.

Local pickup only

just from the photo I can tell there is not a big stroke with that saw so it will cut slower. The idea of a skip tooth blade is a good one.

How much for shipping??

Clayton We will give the same advise as the previous question on value of a Hawk saw. These saws are all professional line saws. They are not beginners entry level saws. The Hawk line os saws in my opinion is top of the line. They have over the years taken their saws to new levels improving on things if problems arose with a current model. Some improvements are so minor the average person will not even know, This series G4 is the middle series in their line and its biggest improvement was the ability to top feed. These are again over $1200 saws so when you say cheap what are you talking. These saws will go for around $500 to $600 on the market. Is it a good deal?? You have to see the saw and be able to test saw. Does the motor run and sound good, does the VS work, does the air blowing system work, is the back blade tension cam look in good shape, does the front tension work and so on. Too many variables to say yes good deal. But are they worth the look. Absolutely. Here is a link for the BM series to show what improvements go on to give you an idea. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Na5E18zXTZI