JTTHECLOCKMAN

Goes out in the trash and in the landfill.

Yea I don't do any of that. Like a said simple piece of thick rubber and it solved that years ago. I do not touch the lever and have not for a long time so I do not oil it lube it or touch it. My control is in the front arm. If a number blade I am using is longer than my usual #5 I just cut the tip off to make fit.

Jim just a quick note being you mentioned rattle or someone did, That handle on the back tension wedge can sometimes work it way over to the arm and rattle against it. I put a piece of rubber on the arm to prevent this. Maybe something to watch for. Good luck with new saw. Hope many projects come off it.

If all works it still a very good deal. You get to at least try it being it is a pickup. Good luck. Good to see the Hawk family growing here.

If you are spray finishing in the same shop you do woodworking all I can say is good luck man. Dust and finish do not mix but as YOU elegantly said TO EACH HIS OWN. Love your jabs.

I guess I did not use enough of these. Another suggestion if the air conditioner covers won't work, Harbor Freight sells many size tarps that probably can work. Maybe a outdoor grill cover will work. Here is a site that has all kind of covers. http://www.the-cover-store.com/equipment-covers/outdoor-full-air-conditioner-covers?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BING | OUT | AC | SEARCH&utm_term=air conditioner covers&utm_content=OUT | AC | SEARCH | US | Air Conditioner Covers

Wow we are now babying our saws. Do you need to put a heater under the cover too to keep it warm at night. None of my tools in my full woodworking shop have ever had covers and that includes 4 scrollsaws. If you really need one them maybe an air conditioning cover may work. Home Depot have them for cheap money. Do they get dust on sure but so what, it will not effect bearings and anything else on them. They are made to get dusty.

This thread can apply here as well. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/29481-stain-first-or-glue-up-first/

I use this on all my tools http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

Looks like you did well. There is no blade in it so that wedge moves around easily from transporting it. Great price and great saw. Looks just like mine. Will say this those plastic blade clamp holders under the table get stretched out over time and it can cause the holder to jump to a different notch position. They are cheap enough to have plenty of spares. I made one from some spring steel to replace them. Good luck with new toy.

Local pickup only

just from the photo I can tell there is not a big stroke with that saw so it will cut slower. The idea of a skip tooth blade is a good one.

How much for shipping??

Clayton We will give the same advise as the previous question on value of a Hawk saw. These saws are all professional line saws. They are not beginners entry level saws. The Hawk line os saws in my opinion is top of the line. They have over the years taken their saws to new levels improving on things if problems arose with a current model. Some improvements are so minor the average person will not even know, This series G4 is the middle series in their line and its biggest improvement was the ability to top feed. These are again over $1200 saws so when you say cheap what are you talking. These saws will go for around $500 to $600 on the market. Is it a good deal?? You have to see the saw and be able to test saw. Does the motor run and sound good, does the VS work, does the air blowing system work, is the back blade tension cam look in good shape, does the front tension work and so on. Too many variables to say yes good deal. But are they worth the look. Absolutely. Here is a link for the BM series to show what improvements go on to give you an idea. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Na5E18zXTZI

Try buying a Grandfather clock mechanism. It is the mechanism to make strike at different hours that makes it expensive. Unlike a grandfather clock it is a set hour and half hour or quarter hour same ring. They are not $4000 Plus they are solid brass.

Most of those clocks are mechanical for a reason. Tradition. The sound of a mechanical clock can not be copied with an electronic. There are some out there but those clocks were always 8 day wind up clocks and the better ones are big money. Now you can go to ebay and maybe able to get something less moneyhttp://www.ebay.com/bhp/ships-bell-clock They do make a battery operated one. May have to work around the design but not clock inserts http://www.landfallnavigation.com/chelsea-usn-patriot-deck-clock-6-inch.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIya_GrOrU3AIVgovICh3qewqVEAYYBCABEgIuyvD_BwE

If you do get the saw and get a chance to actually get accustomed to it you will find it is one of the finest saws on the market and to me the easiest blade changing and use mechanism. I would never get rid of mine. When you do set it up go over the leg system and make sure they are splayed evenly and all bolts are tight. A stand is an important part of a scrollsaw system. It is a design factor that gets overlooked by users. Good luck.

As I said if I did not have enough saws already I would offer her 100 to 125 and run with saw in tow if she accepts. Especially if it runs and VS is good.

It absolutely does. Looks fine. That wedge should hardly ever get moved. I probably changed tension with that maybe 4 or 5 times in my lifetime of this saw. I work off the front blade tension lever and changed those once on each of my 226 and 220 saws. Once set you should never have to touch again unless you are using a huge blade difference such as #1 to a #12. I stay in the #5 range and good to go. Now If I go up or down I do not need to touch that cam again. As I said all the parts these people are telling you about are replaceable and yes they cost $$$ new but you are getting a $1200 saw for $150 and see if she would take $100 I would not hesitate if it runs and the VS works. All other parts are cheap. The money is in the motor and electronics. Will point out this is a Hawk ultra saw that uses the square blade holders so it is a new version. I also knows this because the front air tube has an articulating front end. Unless she replaced this with a replacement part the first series of this model with the square blocks did not come with this feature. It was a straight tube with a clamp on the side arm and you positioned it by hand for direction of air blowing. They all now come with the articulating blower hose. http://www.rbiwoodtools.com/About-Us.html

If you are talking about the quick release lever up front, it is a quick easy fix. Here are the parts that come in the kit. The barrel pin is what holds it on. Pop that out and that is it.

over $1000 saw new so go from there. What condition does it run, what condition is blower and so forth.

Jim I have an 18" Hegner but it is mounted to the stand designed for it which is the tripod stand. I do not tilt it and still sit at it with an adjustable bar stool and have no problem. I suggest that you call Hegner and get their professional opinion and maybe they have a solution. Here is my thoughts. I believe you would be better off tilting the saw between the stand and base. I see no reason why this can not be tilted. The reason I do not suggest tilting the saw while on that stand is because it is designed to take out vibration of the saw and made to sit with all 3 legs flat on a solid surface. I am assuming you have that 3 legged stand. When you raise the back leg now all 3 legs are only sitting on a small portion or edge of those legs and the vibration may transfer up to the saw more-so. Hegners thought with those stands is that with 3 legged tripod you can balance the saw better than a 4 legged stand thus less vibration. I can be way off base here but those are my thoughts and as suggested a simple phone call to them will get you a true answer. As opposed to Dewalts 3 legged stand that has adjustable legs so no matter the angle they still all sit flat on the ground. That is the comparison.

nice find Paul

Here is a neat trick. http://woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip021800sn.html Another http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2008/03/06/ws/

That is how I do it. I make a master sheet and then copy for further use if need be. I too do not know how to use the pattern makers software.