JTTHECLOCKMAN

Try buying a Grandfather clock mechanism. It is the mechanism to make strike at different hours that makes it expensive. Unlike a grandfather clock it is a set hour and half hour or quarter hour same ring. They are not $4000 Plus they are solid brass.

Most of those clocks are mechanical for a reason. Tradition. The sound of a mechanical clock can not be copied with an electronic. There are some out there but those clocks were always 8 day wind up clocks and the better ones are big money. Now you can go to ebay and maybe able to get something less moneyhttp://www.ebay.com/bhp/ships-bell-clock They do make a battery operated one. May have to work around the design but not clock inserts http://www.landfallnavigation.com/chelsea-usn-patriot-deck-clock-6-inch.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIya_GrOrU3AIVgovICh3qewqVEAYYBCABEgIuyvD_BwE

If you do get the saw and get a chance to actually get accustomed to it you will find it is one of the finest saws on the market and to me the easiest blade changing and use mechanism. I would never get rid of mine. When you do set it up go over the leg system and make sure they are splayed evenly and all bolts are tight. A stand is an important part of a scrollsaw system. It is a design factor that gets overlooked by users. Good luck.

As I said if I did not have enough saws already I would offer her 100 to 125 and run with saw in tow if she accepts. Especially if it runs and VS is good.

It absolutely does. Looks fine. That wedge should hardly ever get moved. I probably changed tension with that maybe 4 or 5 times in my lifetime of this saw. I work off the front blade tension lever and changed those once on each of my 226 and 220 saws. Once set you should never have to touch again unless you are using a huge blade difference such as #1 to a #12. I stay in the #5 range and good to go. Now If I go up or down I do not need to touch that cam again. As I said all the parts these people are telling you about are replaceable and yes they cost $$$ new but you are getting a $1200 saw for $150 and see if she would take $100 I would not hesitate if it runs and the VS works. All other parts are cheap. The money is in the motor and electronics. Will point out this is a Hawk ultra saw that uses the square blade holders so it is a new version. I also knows this because the front air tube has an articulating front end. Unless she replaced this with a replacement part the first series of this model with the square blocks did not come with this feature. It was a straight tube with a clamp on the side arm and you positioned it by hand for direction of air blowing. They all now come with the articulating blower hose. http://www.rbiwoodtools.com/About-Us.html

If you are talking about the quick release lever up front, it is a quick easy fix. Here are the parts that come in the kit. The barrel pin is what holds it on. Pop that out and that is it.

over $1000 saw new so go from there. What condition does it run, what condition is blower and so forth.

Jim I have an 18" Hegner but it is mounted to the stand designed for it which is the tripod stand. I do not tilt it and still sit at it with an adjustable bar stool and have no problem. I suggest that you call Hegner and get their professional opinion and maybe they have a solution. Here is my thoughts. I believe you would be better off tilting the saw between the stand and base. I see no reason why this can not be tilted. The reason I do not suggest tilting the saw while on that stand is because it is designed to take out vibration of the saw and made to sit with all 3 legs flat on a solid surface. I am assuming you have that 3 legged stand. When you raise the back leg now all 3 legs are only sitting on a small portion or edge of those legs and the vibration may transfer up to the saw more-so. Hegners thought with those stands is that with 3 legged tripod you can balance the saw better than a 4 legged stand thus less vibration. I can be way off base here but those are my thoughts and as suggested a simple phone call to them will get you a true answer. As opposed to Dewalts 3 legged stand that has adjustable legs so no matter the angle they still all sit flat on the ground. That is the comparison.

nice find Paul

Here is a neat trick. http://woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip021800sn.html Another http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2008/03/06/ws/

That is how I do it. I make a master sheet and then copy for further use if need be. I too do not know how to use the pattern makers software.

If you try to ask the questions here I bet we all can help. Photos sometimes save alot of typing too. Just give us some info on the type of saw used and some info on the problem and also what type wood or material you are trying to scroll.

No on drum sander. Please. Not enough surface area to support the drum You will get dips in front and back. A large disc sander is perfect. A belt sander can work as well but I prefer the disc. A bandsaw can absolutely cut straight if tuned properly and a good blade is used.

Dave there are many ways to make a box and yours is very much acceptable. I believe you saw blade is not 90 degrees to the table and or not parrallel with your fence. need to check these. Most people when doing boxes the way you are actually use a bandsaw so that they cut the top all in one pass. When you keep flipping the box over to cut another side, if there is imperfections in the set-up they get multiplied. To smooth things out the best tool is a nice 12 inch disc sander

Kevin, basically if it has the word oil in it it is a penetrating finish which means it gets absorbed into the wood and dries and depending what is mixed with it can harden somewhat. These oils are made from various nuts, seeds and or plants. There are many and there are many different names for the products derived from them. If they are truely pure oils the dry time is greatly increased. Artificial driers are added to shorten this time. As I said add poly or varnish and now you crossed over to the surface finishes. But again with the amount of mixture will determine its state. That is why Danish oils fall in the middle along with tung oil. Now take the percentages up of polys, shellac, wax, varnish and such and these become strictly surface finishes along with lacquers. Then you get into waterbased and oil based. Broken down even further you get into brush-on, wipe-on, spray or combination. The use of all these finishes comes down to the application needed. Feel like wood, withstand elements both surrounding and environmental, ease of use, looks and color, time to dry. Remember when using oils the odor is a factor too and takes longer to dissipate than sealing in with a surface finish. Finishing is a whole world in itself

You may want to leave off the outer ring like the jewelry items. Still robust enough not to be too delicate.

this is just another concoction some backyard chemist tried. Weather you mix linseed oil or tung oil it still is Danish oil to the core because you added poly. As I said some people use varnish over poly and still called danish oil. Been going on for years. Deft and minwax add driers to the mix which aides is speeding the drying time and that can be important. With turners many times they rely on heat for drying because they spin their work and can hold a rag to it and the piece is usually solid. Scrollsaw work not so much.

As you can see finishing products can be both complicating and simple at the same time. Alot has to do with the formula used by each manufacturer and that is it. Blo does dry unless no driers were added and again the ratio can determine how fast. No it is not a film finish so no protection. Varnishes or polyurethane can be added which is what Danish oil basically is and when you add those ingredients it now can be classified as a film finish but there are always better ones such as pure polyurethane and pure varnish. There is a difference between varnish and poly but most times get interacted. These ingredients are added to create some of the products out there. Varnish has organic resins and poly has plastic resins (man made) Tung oil is different as I mentioned above. It all comes down to reading the labels on the cans and seeing what the ingredients are. You always can look up the MDS sheets on every product on the market. Mixing things to make your own concoction has been done fore years and some even claim secret recipes but that is hogwash. Just about every combination is on the market today and may go by different names. Some may add varnish while some add poly but call it Danish oil so you need to read the cans. Again finding a favorite is a matter of choice and testing for yourself. Take in consideration what the final look is to be as well as use of the item. If an item is going to sit on a wall then any product will work. If it is to be handled then something with a film finish is probably the best. With all this said always remember safety when working with products like this. Any oils can cause spontaneous combustion so do not store rags in a bunch but either air dry outside or dip in water. Also breathing these fumes is not a good idea and you should know how to protect yourself there.. Absorbing in skin is not a good idea either. Have fun.

http://www.spraypaintstencils.com/alphabetstencils/Cowboys-image.gif

It can but being in the sunlight the temp swing is greater than the others. The woods probably will change colors also as time goes by unevenly.

I guess any of those will work. I have used the 2 wing ones for the length of my ownership and still like them.

Ray any acrylic enamel. Preferably spray if you can.

http://www.jewelsobsession.com/gold-ma-medical-assistant-pendant-az4695dz.html

You have cross grain situation. Top and bottom section the grain runs north and south and the shim are east to west. Wood movement over time will cause failures even in no sunlight. Especially so little glue surface. A flexible epoxy could probably help. Definetly not contact cement.

Well Les I am by far no expert but can give some insight. Not too sure what you are asking. Everyone develops over time what they feel is their best finish material weather it be sanding pads or sand paper and also the top coats such as Danish oil and BLO or tung oils. There are many of them on the market and each manufacturer has their own recipes. Many times it comes down to amounts of add on mixtures and nothing else. With that said the difference between tung oil and BLO is small but discernible. BLO is actually linseed oil and mineral spirits with driers and other catalysts that help dry the liquid. Never want to use pure linseed oil. It will take forever to dry They use to use that alot on telephone poles because it did not dry out. Tung oil is a mixture of varnish and mineral spirits and driers. But you can buy pure tung oil and that is a different horse. Need to read cans. Pure tung oil takes longer to dry. Both dry to a solid state with blo drying faster. The main difference is BLO is an oil that is more yellow thus making grains more pronounced as you have seen. But over time it will yellow even more so especially on woods like pine. Tung oil being a varnish will be lighter in color and yes it too will darken but not as much depending on manufacturers mixtures. Sometimes that is the differences in price and also the name can help there too. Tung oil dries slower and also requires sanding between each coat to get rid of roughness and will take more coats than blo to get the same finish. With blo sand first coat and none after that needed and use less coats. Now the advantage tung oil has over BLO is it is more water resistant than BLO if that is a concern. But not a film finish so do not use that way. All these finishes require warm temps to cure, not just dry. Same with Danish oil. Basically comes down to chose and that is why there are so many on the market. Think of tung oil like a polyurethane but with varnish instead so it will be somewhat harder finish but not by much. As I mentioned many times here I am a huge fan of Danish oil as my go to finish. I dip my projects and top coat with a Watco satin wax. I use Watco danish oil. Not sure if this answers your question and if not maybe you can put it a different way and I will see what I can do. Good luck.