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oldhudson

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Everything posted by oldhudson

  1. oldhudson
    Well done.
  2. oldhudson
    I've used the Shopsmith branded sanding belts for a couple of years. Once you get past the sticker shock and use them for awhile they make more sense. They really last. I didn't know they had sheets now. (I don't get to Lowe's often) Thanks for the info.
  3. oldhudson
    It won't work for us, all four of our laundry baskets are different shapes/sizes. But if your baskets are all the same this looking like a space saver. Nice work. It's true that the larger projects require more space, but not necessarily 'shop' space. I use the garage and/or family room for staging and assembly - leaving the shop free for production. I try not to use the garage especially in the winter. I just hate clearly snow/ice off before getting underway.
  4. oldhudson
    I've never done a puzzle before but for all my woodworking I generally finish the entire piece, front, back, outside, inside and bottom. I just think it's more professional. Just my 2¢.
  5. oldhudson
    Doesn't it feel swell when you fix something on your own? Well done!
  6. oldhudson

    Pyramide

    oldhudson replied to helmut's topic in Bragging Rights

    Excellent. I'd like to see a youtube video with the candles lit and the fan moving.
  7. oldhudson
    That anti-size compound is great stuff, but I've never tried it on the scroll saw. Thanks for a great tip!!!
  8. oldhudson
    There are four things I'd say. 1. Use dry wood. 2. Let it sit in the shop for a week or more before beginning milling, to let the stock acclimate to the RH in your shop. 3. When you start milling and cut or plane one side or edge, do the opposite side or edge too. So that the movement of moisture in/out of the board balances. 4. Use wood with the straightest grain you can find.
  9. oldhudson
    Mineral oil from a big box store.
  10. oldhudson
    It's just my 2¢ but I don't worry about dust very much when I'm staining, it's the top coat(s) that's the issue. If I'm going to be finishing I end the previous day by trying to do a decent job of vacuuming and then let the dust settle overnight. You didn't say if the space was heated or not - be careful to read the labels about any stain or finish and the lowest temp that the manufacturer suggests it can be applied. The same is true for wood glue. Titebond, for example, is not supposed to used if the space and materials are not at 45° F or higher. I use 50° as my threshold.
  11. oldhudson
    Great job. I love the way you used a single board for the 3 drawer fronts and your joints on those angle cuts look super. And please thank your son for his service.
  12. oldhudson
    It would be interesting to see pics of those. It seems to me the key factors with wood twisting, cupping, etc. are: 1) moisture content and 2) grain. So if the wood is not dry of if you recently cut it from another board, hence exposing a new surface. It can cause the stock to move. Or if the stock has been in a garage in humid are and you bring it in to an AC space without letting it adjust to changes in RH you can get movement. And of course if the grain isn't relatively straight all those internal forces start to work and who knows what will happen. But I don't think heat is the problem. My last major problem with with twist was with the bathroom vanity project I posted about a couple times here.(search under vanity). One of the door twisted. I didn't re-do the door but the right hand door stock out nearly 1/4" at the bottom relative to the left hand door. I followed good wood working rules but it is still - yech. Fortunately it's a really dark stain and isn't noticeable to anyone but me.
  13. oldhudson
    Some people doubt the durability and strength of a glue joint. I submit that this project shows how strong, durable and long lasting today's glues are. I joined two 1/2' poplar boards to make this trivet, I think it's from 1986. This trivet is in daily use and has be hand washed dozens of times. It's stained with Minwax, there is no top-coat of any kind. There are two pics, one from each side. The joint is much more noticeable on the one side, no doubt from some mistake on my part.
  14. oldhudson
    I can't agree that heat will make a wood trivet bow, cup, twist etc. Here are pics of two I made about 1986 that have been in daily use. The round one was actually glued from from two pieces of stock. The stock for both was 1/2" poplar. They've been washed dozens of times. They are as flat as the day I made them. I stained them with an oil base stain (Minwax). No top-coat of any kind was used.
  15. oldhudson
    Nice! Are you using acrylic paints?
  16. oldhudson
    I think it depends on the stock and design. The few trivets I've made I strained and didn't put any top coat on at all, they are in daily use in our dinning room. If you want a lot of bling - make a test piece, put the finishes you want on and then put it into use for a few weeks. You'll find out. On your enamel there must be an 800 number, call their tech support and ask them.
  17. oldhudson
  18. oldhudson
    I've had good luck with E-replacement Parts too. I don't think their pricing is the cheapest but the web site is easy to navigate and as noted they have great diagrams. They were a big help with our dishwasher a few months back. Finally, they seem to have a good handle on their inventory, they know when they don't have items on hand or when they only have one of something.
  19. oldhudson
    Well done.
  20. oldhudson
    An excellent example of up-cycling, very creative!
  21. oldhudson
    It would be interesting to see the joint that brought up this question!! While I think wooden glue joints are strong I often re-enforce them with mechanical fasteners, as long as I can hide them. I use Titebond II, Titebond molding glue, Rockler CA thin and medium, Loctite epoxy, and Elmer's white all purpose glue - it depends on the application.
  22. oldhudson
    I just bought a set for my Delta, it was close to $30 for a set of reversible blades. Seemed simpler than trying to find someone to do the work and packing them up for mailing. Just my 2¢.
  23. oldhudson
    Excellent.
  24. oldhudson
    Very nice!
  25. oldhudson
    Given that you're going to use the scroll saw, let me suggest one more option. You can make a simple circle cutting jig to use on the scroll saw. I did that for Christmas ornaments years ago. The advantage of a jig is that you'd get a near perfect circle and it's repeatable. Finally, a shop made jig is adjustable you can cut a 35mm circle and change the circle size by moving the pivot point relative to the blade. On the other hand, for a single circle it may not be worth the effort. Good luck with the project I know we'll all be looking forward to pictures.
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