WayneMahler
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Everything posted by WayneMahler
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She is really cute. Rocking horse looks interesting too
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The 3/0 vs the 3 is a size designation. I see folks have posted some of the measurements. It has to do with the thickness of the blade, for example 3/0 is .008 inches thick making a very thin blade that can do extremely tight turns and very delicate work. Normally blades this thick are easy to break and for thin wood. A #3 is .014 thick. Still cuts a very small kerf, is stronger and can be used on thicker wood. I use them up to 1/2" thickness but they will get dull faster then a larger blade. Also the thinner the blade the slower my feed rate goes. Hope this helps explain this.
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Is there any lumber yards or mills around you. They will do it for a couple bucks.
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Looks good, like the finish. Hats off to you
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Good to see you enjoying the new shop. You know what they say about all work and no play
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Here's the teak you wanted to see that i got from friend
WayneMahler replied to amazingkevin's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Nice looking stock pile. Enjoy it when the time comes. -
The road ahead looks to be a long one. One step at time and it will all come together, and be what you want. Don't risk your health and you will get to enjoy the shop much better when completed. Stay safe and healthy my friend.
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Great news for you. I'm sure you will love it as much as I do mine.
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From my experience you need to ororder more then one of the size, but it paid off in the long haul.
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Welcome back. Just went through the same thing with a hard drive that went crash burn and die Thankfully most of my stuff was backed up on and external hard drive.
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Always to do it right the first time Kevin. Progress looks good so far. As for running #10 for a hot, that will be dictated by the size of the breaker in the panel. Keep us posted on your progress.
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Great work. Love it.
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FD makes flat end spirals too. I have some of them. When ordering look for the "FE" on the part number. These are the flat end spiral blades.
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Welcome to the wonderful world of scrolling. I have found the blades that come with the saws are pretty cheap, like the ones you buy at the big box stores. I personally use Flying Dutchmen blades. Two thing you want to look at, is the blade at 90 degrees with the table ? A small square will answer this. Then check the speed of the blade and your feed. Let the blade do the the work, if you force the wood through the blade it will over heat the blade and break. Blade tension is also critical. They say when you twing it with your finger nail it should sound like a high c note. I'm used to just grabbing mine to see if it is right. Be patient and take your time and enjoy it.
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Small hardware, brads, screws etc.
WayneMahler replied to WayneMahler's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Thanks for all the input guys. I'll look into all of them. -
Where is everyone getting their small brads and screws. I was getting mine from a company on eBay but can't find them right now. Also was a little disappointed in the quality of the screws. I use a lot of 1/2" stuff to attach hangers on the backs of my work. Saw tooth hangers, D-Rings and the like. I have found heavier pieces the brads don't work very well and will back out with vibration. So I am looking for a pace to order good quality fasteners in bulk. Thanks for any help and suggestions.
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Seen the plans for these. Thought it was very interesting. Just may have to do one when I get caught up in the shop. Thanks for sharing and nice work.
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You can save your pattern as a pdf and then print it to a specified percentage. I have Adobe Pro but believe the free reader will do the same.
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I stay away from any of the big box store blades. They are junk. I order Flying Dutchmen Blades, you can get them through WTB and Mike's shop. Priced right and good blades.
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Mine looks worse then yours. I just waxed the top with min wax polished hoping to slow this down. Just purchased my EX-21 not long ago. Will say I love the saw but the table finish comes up short.
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What is your wood of choice for scrolling?
WayneMahler replied to Dave Monk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Mine depends on the project . I like oak, maple and cherry, use baltic birch ply for portraits and ornaments. I also use pine for certain projects. -
Lot of work ahead of you Kevin. At the same time it has to be exciting too. Keep us posted on your progress. Have fun too
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This makes sense to me. And is sort of my thoughts but wanted to ask to be safe and sure. Somewhere way back in history I remember reading a topic about changing a pattern by greater then 20 % but could not remember the whole article or find it again. I do give credit to the original designer when I display my works. Thanks everyone for all the input and feedback. Greatly appreciated
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Thank you all for the input.. I'm not looking for mass production or even claiming "my" design. Somewhere in years gone by I thought I read that a certain percentage of change your could re-label it. I'll post a picture of the finished product once done. Thank you again for the input, and insight.
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Okay, so the wife has been going through all the books and magazines I have. Looking to add to our inventory for doing shows. She found a pattern for a Humpty Dumpty ( Creative Woodworking June, 2010 ) wall plaque and was thinking it was a night light for a child's bedroom. It is just a flat plaque. If I was to change this to a night light pattern would it become my pattern of would the original copyright stay in place? I know this is a grey area and I can do this for myself, but was thinking I may be able to share the pattern once all the bugs were worked out for it? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
