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WayneMahler

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Everything posted by WayneMahler

  1. Depends on what I am working on. Spray poly, lacquer, tung oil, danish oil.
  2. A foot switch to me is mandatory. Once I used it, I fell in love. Have fun with new saw. I love mine and I'm sure you will love yours too. Happy scrolling.
  3. Like many others I have done that also. Usually on a very detailed piece. Heart wrenching it is. Glad to hear you got yours back together and hoping the finish looks great.
  4. Congrats on your purchase. I ordered mine. Three days later it was at my house. You are going to love this thing. I'll never look back.
  5. I use TiteBond II & III. I prefer them over the others mostly because they worked so well never had to look for another brand.
  6. Never tried it on Lauan. But oak, maple etc, I try to get the light and angle to show the grain. Maybe a damp wipe will help high light it, I would suggest mineral spirits since water can effect it the wrong way. Interesting thought though, would like to see a pic if you get one.
  7. I agree with the teaching thing. Everybody learns something along the way. Plus passing on an art form in itself is a treasure. I think we all do this because we enjoy it and love to share our work, maybe making a few dollars along the way. I hope you give it some serious thought and at least an attempt. Cheers.
  8. Pretty much what Fred said. I have in the past used the crown tooth blades. I moved to the ultra reverse because i liked the way the handled better.This is just my personal preference.
  9. I use a lot of #3 & #5 Ultra Reverse. I also use some #7 for 3/4 inch oak and the like.
  10. Been using FD for years. I like the Ultra Reverse for most of my work.
  11. Nice work. Glad you got your problem straightened out too.
  12. I think all blades have a time and place. I have used spirals with mixed results. You need to practice with them. I normally use flats, but when it comes to big cuttings, sometimes you have to use spirals to get the job done. Something I did not like about spirals, they leave the back very fuzzy with a lot of clean up work if you cutting a single board. Just my opinion though.
  13. I try to release the tension at the end of each day. I forget quite often, guess it's an age thing.
  14. I'll run with 1 - 6. I have dropped piece taking the pattern off and said a little more the " Oh my ... " . Live and learn.
  15. Thanks Kywoodmaster. Just ordered and will let everyone know what is it like.
  16. I have an EX-21 and don't know of anything like this. The head tilts and the table stays flat. Are you talking about a compound mitered cut? Sorry I am a little confused.
  17. I prefer the forstner bit. Use a drill press and depending on the size of the bit, select your speed accordingly. Larger forstner bit don't work well at faster speeds.
  18. Easiest way I know to check the table - blade for 90 is cut a line in a piece of wood. Flip that same piece over and see if lines up to the back of the blade. Personally I use a 2" square to check and set mine but this method works great when you don't have the square. The thicker the block the better, make sure your tension is set properly to avoid deflection.
  19. With so many now on the market it would be hard to say. I wouldn't spend that much on a toy. Best of luck in your search.
  20. All good information. Thanks for sharing this
  21. Interesting post. First word I thought of was Forever.
  22. Isn't strange how we are called to answer the requests we receive. I freely advertise custom orders and never know whats coming next. Yet I embrace the opportunity. Learning is growth.
  23. Josh Try craigslist under free. Sometimes you can find stuff there. Pallet wood, old furniture and the like.
  24. Some vintage iron for sure. wouldn't mind taking it for a test drive.
  25. I have a ridgid and I am happy with it. I will say the back up the warranty very graciously.
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