OCtoolguy

Thanks Les. That's the sort of info that is gold for us newbies. Have you ever tried any of the FD XL blades? They don't have any reverse teeth so they won't be good for plywood but for solid wood, I'm finding that they do very well. I'm using a #5 XL in 1/4" poplar right now and I like it. I went back to the Pegas and FD reverse blades and was right back to having the kerf clearing problem again.

I think that will be the answer Jack. I watched his video a few times. The front was locked down very tight and I could see the movement coming from the rear because of the leverage factor. And also, he has the detent ball/zero pointer completely off the saw. That in itself serves to hold the front of the table in place. R

Back in 1985 or 6 I went to a Woodworking Show somewhere in Colo. Springs. That's where I bought my Hawk 26" scroll saw. I took it home, put it together and never used it for anything. If I recall, I paid about $600 for a dust catcher. It used a belt and a two groove pulley underneath. I ended up selling it to my neighbor. It lives in Tennessee now on their farm. R

I'd sure like to see some sort of event come back to the So. Cal. area again. It's been a long time since we have had a woodworking show of any kind around here. It got too expensive to put on so they stopped having them. Too bad. They should find a field somewhere and put up a "revival" type tent and have free parking too. Can you see me dreaming again?

Thanks to all who have replied. The blade was not in upside down for sure. I tried a couple of different blades. I had the best luck with a non reverse blade. I think what the problem is is the adhesive from the layer of shelf liner and spray adhesive being too much for the tiny blades to clear. Once I got up to a #5 XL blade, the problem worked itself out almost completely. I was also trying to run the saw too slow as I'm still learning how to control the cutting. I'm getting better though. Thanks again, sorry to be a bother. Ray

Thanks. I thought a lot of people had switched over to the shelf liner instead of the more expensive blue tape. Actually, this is the first time I've had this problem and I thought maybe it was because of the poplar. I have been using BB for most everything I've done up until now. But, I see your point and I will give it a try. Thanks again.

Thanks. I think you hit the nail on the head. I'll have to figure out a better way. Not sure yet what that will be but maybe I'll try it the next time without the shelf liner. I thought I was doing it the way most others do it.

Believe it or not Jes, my buddy had a home up in San Marino that had a basement. The house was built back in the early 20's. It was far enough above sea level that it was possible.

Check to see if the table has any up-down or side to side movement at the pivot pin. It shouldn't. If it does, try a wrap or two of masking tape and tighten it up.

Ok, update. I tried using a non- reverse blade and that has helped a lot. I also stepped up a size to a 5 XL from FD. Seems to be better. R

If you can stop the movement at the rear, there will be no movement at the front. Try a clamp of something.

I have embarked upon my project basket that I showed you all a couple of weeks back. It is made up of 7 layers of poplar and a top and bottom of oak. All are 1/4" thickness. I sanded all pieces first and then applied the shelf paper that everybody is using now. Then, I applied 3M 77 to the pattern paper and then the paper to the shelf liner. All good to go. I started cutting with a Pegas #3 MGR blade. I did one piece of poplar with that. Then for the second piece of poplar, I tried a FD #3UR. Both seem to cut just fine. My problem is, the kerf is very fine and the blades are not clearing the sawdust/paper residue. The little blower nozzle and the vacuum inlet aren't clearing the kerf. It's almost like I'm cutting wet wood but I don't feel that it is even damp. So, my question is, is this normal or should I go to a larger blade like a #5. Is the reverse cut doing it? I'm new enough at this that I don't know just what to do. I'm getting a very nice cute with #3 and there will be little to no sanding required. I'd sure appreciate any advice from you more experienced folks. Nut Basket.pdf

Best of luck to both of you. I recall having to find creative ways to generate extra income. Now, I'm retired and the only way is to do the handyman stuff around our park. That does keep me in spending money. Of course, I have to split it with my partner. She keeps a tidy house for me so I have to "pay" her something. Geesh! R

By the way, that zero pointer should be installed as it has a detent ball that centers the trunnion and believe it or not, it does keep the table from small movements when at the zero point. That ball should locate in a hole on the underside of the trunnion. If that is back in play, I feel that the movement you are experiencing is all at the back of the table. You maybe have a defective table, a defective rear swivel point or??????? I watched the way you "cranked" down on the locking knob and you should never have to apply that much pressure. It won't be long before the threads in that brass bushing are going to be worn out. The only other thing that I can come up with is if the table is possibly over-length and it is contacting the rear pivot point and not allowing the front trunnion to mate with the base. It wouldn't take much for that to happen. There are a lot of things that can still be checked but if none of these are the case, I'm out of ideas.

Just for the heck of it, try taking the trunnion bolts out of their holes in the table so the table is eliminated from the equation. Tighten up the trunnion and see if it still moves. If it doesn't move, then see if the trunnion bolt holes are aligned with the holes in the underside of the table. From what I could see in you video, the table is really only moving at the rear. I'm wondering if the hole in the back of the table is oversized or if the o-ring on the locator pin is the wrong size. I don't see much movement at the front of the table at all. I'm thinking that if the rear of the table was stabilized, it would be pretty solid.

I like white on red. Black would be too dark if you ask me. What you have there now looks great.

I checked mine today and I agree with Jerry. Now, if the bolt is not a carriage bolt, it may not be tightening completely.

Ok Paul, I forgot that I was reading an older post. You see, I have "old timers" and I forget stuff. R

My thoughts too Jerry.

I started calling ours gym. I can now say that I go to the gym everyday. Sometimes many times a day.

Paul, the used saw that I bought came with a homebrew table top that the previous owner made out of hardboard (masonite). I incorporated a table insert that is replaceable. It's really a simple table that he made. It is the same shape overall but just larger and then he put wooden stopper strips on all four sides underneath. I'll take a couple of pics tomorrow and post them. Nothing fancy but it does give you a larger work surface. R

You folks are all so talented in your own ways. You give all of us novices something to strive for.

And from what I hear, you can do the same thing with cranberry juice. Just stay close to the john. Every shop should have a john.

My apologies to GrandpaJim. I sure didn't intend to hijack your thread here Jim. I got carried away. Sorry. Ray

Thanks Paul, I will give it a try but it is so hard to explain that I may have led folks astray with my description. If, say, I have the speed knob set at 1000 and I stip on the pedal, there is a momentary hesitation before it starts. I know that is supposed to be normal but what I'm concerned about is when it starts it jumps up beyond the 1000 and then settles back to what I think is 1000. It's like it's "searching" for the speed that I want. The higher the speed the more pronounced it is. At the slowest speed, it is not as noticeable.