OCtoolguy

It looks like your saw is missing part #64 and what you have was put in place of it. It makes no sense. If your Dad bought the saw new, something is very strange. What does the lower arm look like? The upper and lower arms should both have #64 as their driving source. I've got 2 Excaliburs and neither of mine have parts like yours.

Might be time to call Ray Seymore at Seyco.

Yes, by all means, give us a pic or two. We have a lot of folks here who can help but we need more info. And pics.

Mine is the same. They are all the same. I'm talking about where the sawbolts to the stand.

Paul, my experience with 3 different Hegner saws was that they all liked sitting unbolted on the H/F foam floor mats. I also found that the order in which the 3 bolts that hold it to the stand are tightened made a difference. If I recall, tightening the two rear bolts first and the the single front bolt made a big difference. I'd tighten the two rears a little at a time until tight. Then the front one. I have no experience with bolting the stand to the floor. I don't have concrete floors. On a side note, you mentioned selling your home. We bought our last house in 92 for $250k. We sold it in 07 for $640k. It just sold again for $1.5 mil. A simple tract home of 1900 sq ft and a 3 car garage that sold new in 65 for $25k. Things are nuts here. Property taxes on it for the new buyers will start at $15k/yr.

I think you might be reading the instructions wrong. When I had my Hawk, I'd mount the blade in the clamp, put it under the table and feed the blade tip up through the table. Once in that position it's just a matter of pulling down a bit on the holder retaining spring and moving the blade clamp into it's position. Then go to the top and insert it into the upper clamp. The Hegners are almost exactly the same but have a slot in the table. There are many videos on youtube. Beautiful work. Very unique.

I think it needs a darker background. For contrast. Nice cutting.

I don't have them but if you do a google search for that name you should find them. Sorry.

If you only purchased your Makita that recently it's probably got lithium batteries. Those work great. I'm referring to the old Makitas. I was selling tools when Makita first appeared on the scene. They were orange and used a 7.2 volt NiCad battery. I bought one of the first ones. It served me well. I had to buy a couple of batteries over the years. About mid to late 80's I bought a new model 12 volt Makita that had the "newer, better" NiMh batteries. The first 2 lasted about 2 years. I took them to the main Makita service center and had them tested. They failed so I bought 2 new ones. After another 2 years they were dead. So I bought a Panasonic 12 drill that came with 2 batteries. It did well but finally those batteries gave up. Ok, I've had it with high dollar drills. By this time lithium batteries had been out for a while and I ran across a deal on B & D 20 drill kit. $29.95. I bought it. It is still serving me well after 12 years. I bought a second one to use as a screwdriver. I've got 4 batteries and 2 chargers. All tolled, under $100. I also bought a Harbor Freight 20-volt Bauer drill kit because it came with 2 attachments for trimming shrubbery. Very well-made and very powerful. $59.95. I recently picked up the matching 1/4" driver unit so now I have 2 batteries & chargers.

Regarding the issue of battery types, yesterday I had something interesting happen. I was using one of our 5 cordless phones that we purchased in 2010. They all have nickel metal hydride batteries in them. A pair of AAA in each phone. They've never been replaced. Not once. Yesterday, for the first time, one of the phones gave me a warning that it was out of juice and it went dead. As of this morning, it appears to be back to fully charged. It makes me wonder why/how these batteries have lasted for 13 years and never needed replacing. All the same type batteries on my Makita drill went bad within 2 years of purchase. I'd love to hear why. Anybody?

You didn't mention the age of your 214. Are they even still made? It might help if we knew what you have.

I think you might be reading the instructions wrong. When I had my Hawk, I'd mount the blade in the clamp, put it under the table and feed the blade tip up through the table. Once in that position it's just a matter of pulling down a bit on the holder retaining spring and moving the blade clamp into it's position. Then go to the top and insert it into the upper clamp. The Hegners are almost exactly the same but have a slot in the table. There are many videos on youtube.

They are all supposed to have a "soft start". Mine had it but it seemed to always be searching for the right speed. The one I have now soft starts and goes right to the speed I have the dial st for and stays at that speed. I'm much happier with this saw than the first one.

If it ain't lithium, it ain't worth owning. Just my opinion. I've had nothing but bad luck with NiCad and the other ones. Even through Makita at their own warehouse I got 4 worthless batteries. That's why I stopped buying Makita stuff. Buy cheap stuff and if it fails, toss it and buy another. So far, I've had 2 B & D 20 volt cordless drills that were under $25 ea. They each came with one battery. I bought a 2 pack of knockoff batteries for them and then I also bought the matching saw. I've never had one failure with any of that stuff. Buy cheap! Unless you are a professional user, then buy the best you can afford. When I sold tools for a living, I sold "service" over quality but they both go together. Providing service is what will keep you in business.

I have a few Bauer tools both corded and cordless. I'm happy with all of them. At my age I just buy cheap.

Yes, your links don't work. But the pics come through fine without the links.

Maybe it was just your timing was off. Give it another try. If you are doing craft shows, it's just another item on your table. I'd like to see pics of what you are talking about. It might give me other ideas.

Paul, edit your post so it makes sense.

Juan, you're the first person I've ever heard that had a bad experience with the Pegas saw. I sure hope you got it all rectified to your favor. I also hope that whoever you purchased it through has gotten their customer service up and running the way it should. Also, it may have been a case of growing pains on the company with a fairly new product. Not that that is any excuse.

We have a couple of good ones locally.

I'd be interested in knowing what the numbers on your replacement potentiometer might be. I'm sure that a person could purchase one from an electronics store for far less that what Hegner gets. As long as the ohm ratings is the same or close and it's made for the correct voltage, I'm sure it would work. For some reason, they seem to think that everything on their saws is made of 24 karat gold.

Paul, this goes back to my first Hegner. I sold it because of that problem. I never did figure out what the problem was. I was using a foot pedal so that is entirely possible. Not sure. I have since purchased another used Hegner and it has no problems like that and I'm using the same foot pedal. The pedal I use is a Wen that is very similar to the one that comes with a new saw from Hegner. A lot cheaper though. The saw I have now responds almost instantly when I step on the switch. A very tiny slow start.

Unless you are lucky enough to find either a Canadian or Taiwan Ex, stay away from that name. King and Excelcior are supposed to be well made. I have 2 used Ex's one Canadian and one Taiwan. Both great saws. I did put Pegas clamps on both. Built my own stands. If I were in your shoes, I'd buy a Pegas. There has been no negative feedback as far as I know. In the scroll world the topline saws are Hegner, later model Hawks (ask questions), Seyco and Pegas. The best mid-priced saw seems to be the Dewalt or Delta. Wen has cone out with a similar saw as well as Rikon. But Pegas would be my suggestion. Best of luck with whatever saw you choose.

Be very careful who you vote for!

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