dgman

Looks good Ray!

Thanks John, I have seen the the add for it and plan on purchasing it.

I always finish all my projects including ornaments. I always use hardwoods for my ornaments. My finish schedule starts with soaking in a 50/50 mixture of mineral spirits and linseed oil. The linseed oil brings out the color and grain of the woods and the mineral spirits thins the oil so it flows easily around the project and allows the oil to dry within 24 hours. Then I topcoat with spray semi gloss lacquer. After the lacquer dries, if there are any dust nibs on the finish, I sand them off with a piece of brown paper bag. It’s like using 2000 grit sandpaper without scratching the finish. It’s a little more work but it’s worth the outcome. I sell hundreds of ornaments a year!

Beautiful work!

Nice work Barb!

Looks good Ray, very nice work!

Congratulations Dave! How are the edges of the cut. Do they need sanding? It seems like it would be good for stand up puzzles as long as the puzzle doesn’t have any inside cuts. Give us a review after you have put some hours on it.

If I didn’t already have plans for a particular wood blank, I’ll just stash it away. Eventually, a project will come along for it.

Cool work Marg!

Yes it is true for Lacquer. I never sand between coats of lacquer. If there are any dust nibs after the second coat dries, I polish them off with a folded piece of brown paper bag. It’s like 1500 grit sand paper but leaves no scratches. Otherwise, you do not have to sand between coats or after. I have been using this method for over twenty years.

If you read my first reply, I state that I use minwax semi gloss spray lacquer. I disagree that the term lacquer is a catchall. Lacquer is lacquer.

No I do not. Disassemble the puzzle before you spray. Two lite coats, 30 minutes apart. Let the puzzle dry before you put it together. One consideration is I am in Southern California, we don’t have the humidity you have in Florida, so that might be an issue. You may have to wait longer to let the lacquer to dry.

I cut a lot of stand up puzzles using various hardwoods from 3/4” to 1”. I use a #3 Flying Dutchman Polar blade for these. I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits to bring out the color and grain. Then when dry, usually in 24 hours, I’ll spray a topcoat of spray lacquer. I used to use Deft lacquer, but I can’t find it anymore. So I use minwax spray lacquer found at Lowes. It comes in satin, semi gloss and gloss. I like the semi gloss. Two coats is good for me with no issues assembling or taking apart the pieces.

They are in the current issue of Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts magazine , or you can find them for sale at the Wooden Teddy Bear.

Dave, most of the puzzles I cut are from 7/8” to 1”. It is difficult to cut that thick of wood without beveling the edges. However, it is doable. The trick is to be conscious of what you are doing. All to often, we just zip through the cut without worrying about how the blade is cutting as long as you stay on the line. It is important to not push on the blade laterally. That is, when you are turning the wood into the blade. As you are cutting into a curve, stop occasionally to let the blade catch up. Sometimes, you will actually see the blade straighten up. Set your blade speed high. You might even use a larger blade. One important trick that works for me is to use a pivot point. What does that mean? When I’m cutting, I use a finger to creat a pivot. Witch ever finger is closet to the blade as you are turning the wood. Push down with that finger. As you turn the wood, it will pivot where you are pushing down. This will help keep the wood blank turning with out pushing on the side of the blade blade. larger blade, higher speed, slower feed rate and pivot point. You can do it!

Your Daughter will love it Edward, very nice wok!

Welcome back Brenda, you have been missed!

Kris, you always do a wonderful job in your patterns and especially in your cutting. And a wonderful cause! But, who are these Chiefs? Are they some kind of sports team?

Alder is a hardwood but is very soft. Easy to cut with a scrollsaw. It looks a little like Cherry, but without the Cherry grain. Because it is relatively soft, it gets blotchy if stained so use a sealer if you plan to stain. I have used in the past and have always had good luck with it.

Nice display John! Makes the whole thing worth it!

Very nice! You’ll have wood for the next year or two!

You just like to sir up controversy Kevin! Order a 90° fitting from Amazon. It will be there tomorrow. Fortunately for me, I already had one when I got my planer.

Hey Ray, I’m still hear, I just don’t have much time to post. I’m still working full time. Actually, Im supposed to be working part time, but lately, it’s been full time. I also do the cooking for three every night. I haven’t been in the shop for a couple of weeks! But I still check in every day, but I usually don’t have time to post. I still need to reply to Dave on tracking band saw blades but something always come up.

Congratulations on the new saw. I have the same saw and love it!

Scroll Saw pattern supply catalogs sell a full sheet with pull off backing that is designed for applying to wood projects. You print directly to the sheet, then peel off the backing and apply to your wood blank. The sheets are supposed to be easily removable. Wooden Teddy bear and Cherry Tree sell them.