I sell almost everything I make. I have been given things in the past that I could care less about but accepted them to be nice.
Build up a little inventory and take it to a small craft show. Nothing says you have to make the same thing over.
There are two types of 77 spray glue. One is regular and one is low VOC. I got the low VOC type and MS would not clean it. Don't know if this might be your issue.
Why didn't I think of this sooner.
I sand a lot of small parts and it has always been a pain trying to hold them in place. Today a lightbulb turned on. Hard to believe with this old brain. I took a piece of 1/2" plywood and put shelf paper on it. I then used spay glue on the back of a sheet of 120 grit sandpaper and stuck it to it. Worked great! I'm sure I'm not the first to come up with this solution but I thought I might share it.
I glue up 2" maple and walnut strips. They form stripes. After those have dried I cross cut the piece I glued up. That makes strips of squares alternating in maple and walnut. Then I have to glue them back up to create the chess board. Writing is not my strong suite. If you still don't understand what I am saying I will try to find a video tonight that explains it better.
I planed end grain yesterday. After I glue up my strips for a chess board I recut them and flip them. Before I glue them back up I run them through my planer on edge. You have to allow for tear out on the end. Hope that makes sense.
I needed a new printer so I sprung for one that handles up to 13" x 19" paper. Luv it. I would imagine the way you are doing it is more economical in the end.
I've got a cedar privacy fence that I haven't done a thing to and it has weathered to a grey color that I don't mind the looks of. I think it depends on how you want it to look. A Thompson sealer wouldn't be a bad choice.
You must not have the newest version of Inkskape. When I had the last version I could pint on legal but my new version won't. It will print but only the amount that would be on a regular page.