Wichman
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Everything posted by Wichman
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Ordered the saw 3-17, delivered 3-23. Under a week, holy cow!. Assembled and running on the 23rd. Finally had some time to start cutting test patterns. I didn't have the table squared to the blade, but fixed that tonight. One of the things I cut uses a sliding dovetail 1 1/2 inches thick, so I cut some test ones in material just under an inch. Stacked 3/16" 4 in the stack so 12/16". The curvy thing is a "sky hook" a balance toy to amuse the kids. Some pictures:
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here are pics of my clamps (very new) note that the blade is more "centered". After checking the top screw and the blade tension you might try adjusting the set screw on the left hand side; I'm talking one or two thousands of an inch.
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I ordered the saw with the stand and the HLX7 accessory package.
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Just ordered a new Hegner 22" with the stand and accessory package. Hopefully I'll only cry once. I'll post updates as time allows.
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First time cutting one of these: Pattern from here, 1/8 BB, boiled linseed, FD ur#1
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The item on the stand is a stone, Lepidolite, and was worked to the present state. If she wants to replace the stone with a candle I'll definitely go with a holder. One of our dates was an artwalk, she was admiring the stone, so I went back the next day and bought it.
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Finnished up a present for the new girlfriend. 1/4 cherry, minwax cherry stain, FD polar #3, Steve Good pattern.
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I checked the HD website and it showed the local store had two. The store did not have two, it did not even have a slot for the item. I talked with a member of management that I know outside of HD and he started complaining to me about how bad the website/store products interface is.
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It appears that the plate that the threaded rod goes through to tighten the chuck jaws is damaged, I have ordered a new pin vise from Amazon. Also got a collet set for the Dremel that will clamp the bits as a stop gap.
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I found a Jacobs chuck on A, 0 to 1/8; $335. I only paid $100 for the drill press.
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I have a drill press that had the same problem. Any side pressure and the chuck would just fall out. After many attempts to fix it (including a trip to a machine shop to have the morse taper checked) I finally used locktite, the lowest strength available at the time, I used a very light coat. Worked like a champ and the chuck stayed in place for 30+ yrs. I recently had the chuck fail and had to get a replacement (HF), The old chuck came out without a hassle (had to make a new drift key) but it popped out just fine. The new chuck installed without any hassle and has not come loose since the install.
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I have a pin vise, looks like a miniature drill chuck. I've used it in the past without any problems, but now it won't hold a small (less than 1/16th) dill bit straight. It will hold larger bits straight but not the small ones. So, two questions: 1. can I fix it 2. whats a good brand name for a replacement/second?
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I learned a long time ago to stop a project when I had a little left to do (about 5 - 10 holes on the fretwork I do) and come back to finish the next day when I am rested and fresh.
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I had a similar problem with one of the patterns here. A flamingo dancer napkin holder. The paper size was A4 and just would not print without cutting off part of the pattern, my eventual fix was to print the pattern on an 11 x 17 paper. anything else would screw up the proportions of the pattern. I even made some A4 paper and it still didn't print right.
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what model?
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Three things to add. 1. Try skip tooth blades, they tend to clear the sawdust from a deep cut better, also try backing off the cut every few seconds to let the sawdust clear the cut. 2. I find that a stiff blade really helps with the breaking of small details. I am currently using FD polar blades, #3. 3. Strategize how you cut. Visualize where you will be putting pressure on the cut, use this to determine the sequence of cuts. (say you are cutting a stem with thorns; when cutting the thorns, begin the cuts at the point of the thorn working towards the stem.)
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My advise for newbies is practice. Practice, practice, and then practice some more. Do you think that pro athletes got where they are by just playing? Every sport has drills, practicing a particular skill set over and over. Musicians play the scales. Actors have their own set of practices. So it is with us; practice, practice, practice. It really will payoff in the long run.
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Everybody ready for a new gadget? Here ya go!
Wichman replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
The advantage of the air switch is: if you are in a situation where saw dust keeps clogging the original switch, the air switch is less likely to clog. That being said, I prefer an rf remote switch and fully enclosing the original switch, just my preference. HF makes a three outlet remote switch system. Also. if you use a remote switch, turn the device off at the original switch when you leave the shop. I activated my DC for over a day straight accidentally (shop is separate from the house and I couldn't hear the DC running.) -
It cuts pretty easy, I've spent hours sizing down blanks for title plates without any soreness or blisters or...
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So... as an introduction I have been working at an art publishing business for 25 years. For 20 of those years we have used a laser to engrave our brass title plates in house. We use a laminated brass product that is designed to be lased. The product comes in 12 x 20 inch sheets and we have to size it down with a small hand shear (12" capacity): this one metal shear This not the same as a paper shear, the angle on the metal shear blades is far blunter than the steep angle of a paper shear. I've had both styles of blades for this shear and the difference is staggering. This shear has cut many many thousands of plates, yes it shows wear now but its been a tank.
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My question in all of this is how do you keep it all straight? Sue May has a term of use that states 10 items per pattern may be made,, then it is expected that you will buy another pattern for an additional 10 items; more than 20 items requires a commercial license. I've got a book of fancy designs for mailboxes, 200 of any design is the limit. I've got other patterns that have no limit. Still other with a 10 item limit. How in the heck am I supposed to keep track of all this. No seriously, if I am doing this as a business and am in the public eye...When (not if) the lawyers call/write how am I supposed to prove I've stayed within the terms of use for all the items I am making and selling?
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A few years ago a Earopean design person adopted the name "Montana" and built a brand around that name, then he sued the State of Montana for trademark infringement. He lost, but he did sue.
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Prostick 55, it's what we use where I work.we got a bad batch (would not make a good permanent bond) So after getting a replacement case, I got the 8 cans that would only make a temporary bond. This will last for a while.
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Pro tip: (from Steve Good) when you've got the layout perfect, take a picture of it with your phone so you have a reference.
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The setup I'm using is a hybrid; bottom of the chair is a HF chair that came with a motorcycle seat the top is a tractor seat from a chair I bought at Tractor Supply Co., the platform is 1/2" ply 2x4ft with a hole to fit the post in the chair, the hole is offset front to back to allow room for the foot switch. Maybe this will give you some ideas.
