FrankEV

Yep very cute! Well done! sculpturing and paint work is just fantastic.

I've previously posted about mounting a dremel drill press holder above my work bench upside down. I've been using mine for about 3 years now without any problems for all my flat work progects. I've been able to do panels as large as 24 x36. Actual depth is just about 11 inches. (Limited only by where the upside down mounting surface is off the wall.) Another Limitation is only the depth of material to be drilled because of the dremel high speed. When drilling 3/4 material with a longer small bit the bit tends to burn and not plung perectly straight throug the wood. However for 1/8 and 1/4 panels it is more than accurate enough using the very small bits for 2/0 blades. The dremel drill press is not a heavy duty piece, but has been working well for me. However, my original small dremal tool I was using did burn up. I replaced it with a little more pricy model which has been going strong for quite a while now. Here is a copy of the previous post I made: This is my solution! The Dremel drill press as is, because of it is only 3" from the bit to the post, is imparactical to use for drilling blade holes in almost any fretwork larger than 6" wide. However, I had the idea in my head I could do something to make it work and Home Depot near me had the Dremel Drill Press/Tool Station in stock for $45. I took a chance (knowing I could return it if I could not make it work) and bought it this morning. After I got it home and did some investigating how I could make it work the light bulb lit up in my brain and this was the result. There is a shelf above my workbench that was just the correct height to allow me to mount the base upside down. I slid the Drill press body on the post opposite of what is normal. The press can be rotated around the post allowing it to be swung out of the way if necessary. I use a piece of 1/4" ply as a drill backer and set the stop so the bit will not punch into the workbench top. Very easy to locate the bit ove the point where the hole is needed. From the bit to the wall is about 11" so as positioned it can accomodate panels up to about 22" wide. I have two Dremel Rotary Tools so this one will be a dedicated drill for drilling blade holes, although the tool holder body can be rotated up to 90 degrees and used for other operations. I don't think I will be braking as many drill bits with this setup. I located it near the rear corner of the workbench so it should not interfere tooooooo much with other workbench usage. As the say, where there is a will there is a way. And when space is at a premium, you have to think outside the box and make evey square inch count.

I can for just the sailboat. Watch for it in a little while.

First is a 11” x 12” Russ Beard Pattern that I cut well over a year ago, simply called “Leopard”. Coloration was done using Artis Oil paints at that time. However, I was not happy with how it looked, so it sat on the shelf. I only revisited it a short time ago and with some improved painting skills I have developed and a little work with the paint brush, I believe it now looks better. Its been some time so I’m guessing, but I think the cut panel is 5/32” solid core Maple which has now been affixed to a painted black ¼” BB ply backer. The Fame is 1 3/4” Pine with a black Lacquer finish. I think he has his eyes on you! The second is a “Wile E Coyote – Standing” image I converted into an 11”x 17” scroll saw pattern. Since my previous “Wile” project left my collection for a new home rather quickly, I decided to fill the void with another, but of course, a different pose. The cut panel is 5/32” solid core Birch, hand painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. The frame is also 1 3/4” pine with a primed and painted gloss Black Finish. The third is also of a free, non-credited image, simply called “Sketch of a Sailboat” that I converted into an 11” x 17” scroll saw pattern. I found this image, although very raw, very intriguing and works very well as a piece of Scroll Saw Art. The cut panel is 5/32" solid core Maplet hat was left natural and only the backer was hand painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. The frame is once again 1 3/4” pine with a primed and painted gloss Black Finish. All cuting was done with various Pegas regular and spiral blades and all assembled panels were protected with multiple coats of clear Gloss Lacquer. My work has been coming in groups because I tend to leave the frame making until I can do more than one. Comments and critiques always welcome.

If you are jumping in here please go back to top and see the Updated original post. I think you will like the lamp a lot better now.

Why don't you cut them and let your wife put on the hooks. Win Win. BTW, well done!

Posted in "New Pattern Announcements".

Gus, At Home depot I found; Candlelabra socket base (comes two in a pack), 8 ft lamp cord with inline switch (separate items), three inch nipple (two pack), and a package of nuts. Any light bulb with the small candlelabra screw base will fit. Ten watt night lite, clear xmas bulb or any of the fancy Candlelabra bulbs (LED or incandescent) will work. The smallest 110 Volt LED I couold find in HD is 25W Candlelabra bulb that is abou 2 1/2" tall. Small Xmas light type Socket and Bulb may be available on-line.

I found this free Dragonfly Pattern on-line and realized it would make a good box type Nightlight Lamp. I used solid 1/4” thick Red Oak for the body and connectors, and 1/2” thick (planed down from ¾” thick material) for the Top and Base. The four body sides are 5 1/2” wide x 11 1/2” tall and were stack cut with Pegas #1 MGT R Blades. All chamfering and mitering was done on the table saw. The Top sits loose on the top of the body to allow access for bulb changing. The natural Red Oak color was darkened with one quick wipe on wipe off coat of Minwax Red Oak stain. All stained surfaces were finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer prior to installation of the Amber Cast 1/8” thick Translucent Acrylic panels. The panels are held in place with small dabs of Gel Superglue. I originally intended to use a 25W LED bulb but found that it was too bright. I replaced it with 10W clear nightlight lamp bulb. However, I plan to add some translucent velum sheets, attached with spray adhesive, to the inside face of the Amber panels and see if the lamp has a nicer soft glow with the 25W bulb. I was very unhappy with the much too transparent plexi with either the 10W or 25W bulb. Applied Translucent Velum using spray adheasive to the inside on each side. Now with the 25W LED Candlelabra bulb the glow is much softer amd you can't see inside. Next time I make a lamp like this I have to remember to apply the velum to the plexi before inserting them . Comments and critiques always welcome.

Only when necessary. I prefer images that I only have to color the background. However, like these, it is sometimes necessary to paint both to get the look I want.

The 11” x 14” patterns for these pieces were converted from free image’s I found on-line. All were cut in 5/32” Solid Core Ply affixed to 1/4” BB Ply backers. Cut Panels and Backers were hand painted with Artist Acrylic paints. Assembled panels protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Cutting was done with both Pegas Regular and Spiral blades of various sizes (I really don’t remember which ones). Frames again are 1 3/4” wide premium grade pine, finished by priming and painting with Glidden Max-Flex rattle can spray of various color’s. (I noticed in the photo there is a small scratch on one that will need a touch-up coat. The Glidden Max-Flex paints dry fast to the touch but remains very soft for quite a while until fully cured.) Bamboo Snack (Birch cut panel) Leòn (maple cut panel) Peeking Raccoon (Walnut Cut panel) Comments and Critiques always welcome.

Another Cartoon character 11x14 pattern converted from a, paid for, image obtained on-line. Grumpy and I relate! Cut panel is Hand Painted 5/32” Birch Solid Core ply affixed to a 1/4” Hand Painted BB Ply Backer. Cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R Blade and assembled panel finished with Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is 1 3/4” wide premium Pine primed and painted with Glidden Max-Flex Brick Red Satin. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Great job Grandpa. It is great to see your young ones with something they actually made in their hands rather than an electronic device.

I like this work very much. Like some othe earlier patterns by AF, this one is the true epitome of what a great scroll pattern is. True art!

I only use the solid core project panels from Home Depot. Not cheap but a much better qualty than anything else you can buy in sheets. Available in 5/32 and 1/4 x 12 x 19.25. Boxes of 10.

Yes the lighting and the wood itself. It is walnut, but the cut off I used had been from the end of a long 16" wide board where the board was changing to areas of almost whitish coloring...new growth area I suspect. As a result it is not quite as dark as one would expect. Posssibly, I shoul have given it a quick coat of walnut stain to darken the wood a little, but in live view is looks nice as is.

Bruce (aka Blaughn) Posted back on 10/4 about his cutting of this S. Good Pattern. Well just like Bruce I happen to have a few pieces of ¾” Walnut amongst my scrap pieces that were the perfect size for the cutting and the base. Additionally, although I do not own a Piano or play an instrument, I just happen to have a need to make a piece for my collection of sculptures and this was a great choice. The sculpture is overall approximately 9 1/2” High x 6” wide. Bruce and I both deviated slightly from the original pattern in the area in the half circle just above the base. I also tapered the base about 4 degrees just to add a little more detail. And like Bruce, I finished mine with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. Comments and Critiques always welcome.

OK, I just may be getting a bit carried away making another Cartoon Character. The Cartoon characters of my (way back when) generation that I grew up on are easily found free on-line, easily converted to scrollable patterns and after cutting, easily colored with Artist Acrylic Paints to their original simple basic colors. Yes, I understand that Copyrights and Trademarks apply to the Images so selling these pieces may not be the best Idea. However, they are fun to make and bring back a lot of fond (ahem?) memories. This Woody pattern is cut in 5/32” x 11” x17” Birch Solid Core Ply and affixed to a painted black 1/4” BB Ply backer. Cutting was done with a Pegas #1 MGT R blade. The assembled and painted panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The frame is 1 3/4” wide Pine, primed and painted Glidden Gloss Black. I prefer Polar for my frames but even the Prime Grade Pine I’m using is a lot less expensive then Poplar is. I’m currently working on a non-cartoon project, but I have a bunch of cartoon images in my files that I can convert and cut over time. Comments and Critiques always welcome.

Very well done. As a resident of the state it is very appropriate that you made it and, I'm sure, display it proudly. Oh, I do see your BooBoo .

Very nicely done. I did not see Steves Pattern for this and not sure how it is supposed to be used. Sorry, but I do know I don't like the Glass candle you show. To me it is an accident looking to happen...very easily knocked over. By adding a few more concentric riing pieces on the top, it would look great holding a standard tall candle stick, even if it was the make believe kind with and battery and bulb for a flame BTW, candle sticks usually are displayed in pairs,,,,you making the other one? .

I like color and use it a lot in my work, as iI'm sure you are well aware. However, I don't really know if it works well in layered pieces, unless you paint everything. In your piece (n the second pic.) the trees and sky look nice but the camper, in my opinion, looks unfinished. BTW, laser cut...yes?

I converted this Zebra Image I found on-line into an 11” x 12” scrollable pattern. Cut panel is in 3/32” solid core Hand Painted Birch Ply affixed to a ¼” BB ply painted Black backer. Cutting was done using Pegas #1 MGT R blades. Assembled panel protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer Frame is 1 ¾” wide primed and painted Poplar. Comments and Critiques always welcome.

I made these Steve Good Ball Ornaments for our Christmas Tree this year. Steve designed them for a Laser cutter, but they were easy to cut on a Scroll Saw. I used a lot of 3/32” solid core Maple ply cut offs. Repeated pieces were stack cut. Small details were cut with Pegas #2/0 spiral and long curves and rounds cut with Pegas #1 MGT R blade. Images were hand painted with Artist Acrylic Paints after sealing with a Krylon Spray Sealer. I did a dry fit ups of each ornament to insure all fit before glueing. Where some tab openings were too tight, I adjusted them with a small flat file. I then used Locktite Superglue Gel for assembly. After assembly, each ornament was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. A few personal notes here: Using a plywood for these ornaments was OK as they are just for our tree, and only come out for the month of December. However, they would look much better if a solid wood was used. Also, I would have prefered Images that were viewable from both sides. The word NOEL on two of the Onaments makes the opposite view read wrong, but that is just being very picky on my part. And BTW, the center Image piece would make nice flat ornamentss just by themselves . Comments and critiques always welcome.

Cute...nice paint work. Yep, nice lawn ornament...it will be liked so much when you put it out, it will get stollen

As an ex Long Islander, the LI Woodworkers Club almost makes me wish I was back on LI....Nahh, nope, no, never!!!!! Hope it went well. Hope you update this post with some photos of the event.