FrankEV

Very nicly done. Eagles are always a great subject. How did you attache the cutting to the Base? I've done a few cuttings like this and I add a tenon and mortise to make sure the cutting cannot be knocked free of the base.

Very nicely done. I sure you will get lots of comments from your visitors. Lots of the members hereon love and cut Gnome's of all shapes and sizes. Not my "cup of tea" to say the least, so I stay away from those patterns. But I do enjoy looking at and appreciate the Gnomes other make.

Distreseeing is easy...making it flawless is difficult. I have some very rough rasp like bits that can chuck into a drill, or in my case a power wand from a bench top motor. I just lightly run the cylindrical rasp bit over the face of the frame with som bumps and wiggles...chews it up good. Then I used my Dremel tool in its drill press holder to punch a bunch or worm holes here and there.. I then knock off the real rough stuff with a little corse grit sand paper, and "WALA", a distressed frame from some nice wood in just a very few minutes. The Minwax Early American stain goes well. Of course Satin Poly. Now everyone knows my secret .

Another very well done!!

Same comments and questions as Deer by the Lake.

You must have done a good job on the patteren because the cutting is fabulous. Well Done! What wood is the cut panel? Can't see any grain. Panel Size?

This Horse Head pattern was converted from an available on-line image to add to my Horse theme pieces. The conversion transformed a positive image into a negative for cutting. The cut panel is 5/32” thk x 11 x 17 solid core Maple mounted to a 1/4” thk darkened oak backer. The cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R. Assembled panel was finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The Frame is 1 ¾” wide Poplar. The frame was distressed and finished with Minwax Early American Stain protected with Clear Satin Spray Polyurethane. Comments and Critique always welcome.

At the moment I exclusively use Pegas blades. But even so, I have found that you can overtighten the upper clamp very easily when doing a lot of blade hole changes. When I overtighten, I tend to get the hockey stick bend in my blades, exspecially the smaller blades and even more so with spirals. Isuspect, like others have mentioned, your upper clamp must be cutting into the blade causing the breakage. But overtightening will speed up that breakage. I have found you only need to obtain a minimum "SNUG" tight of the clamp to hold the blade. Yes, occasionally, my blade will slip out of the top clamp, but I rather have that happen then crimping the blade. Also, overtightening the tension can cause blade breakage, but usually somewhere in cutting area of the blade, not at the clamp. Just my 2 cents!

Love the addition of the roses. I actually thouht about adding a rose also, but just didn't yake the time to add it to the pattern. Great cutting ⁷

Very well done. Nicely cut, finished and framed. Overall presentation is absolutely beautiful. Like others, I like the lower one just a tiny bit better. You might consider using 1/8 material when stack cutting and using small blades. Just a little easier too handle. I also dimple my drill holes on the back side with my dremel tool to make feeding the blade through eaiser. But I still kink and break a lot of 2/0 spiral blades when cutting projects like these. That is why I buy them by the gross.

The Eagle is by Janevski. In the original, the image is actually rotated about 45 degrees (tail up). I posted the Reven in PDF format on New Pattern announcements. Great cutting on both.

Craig, Great subject and well cut, but.... Not overly fond of the coloring. There needs to be a difference between the face and what would be the background. Also, my lady just peeked over my shoulder to look at the pic. It took her a long few minutes to recognize what the image was. Please refer back to my recent Question in Q&A and specifically to my last responce to munzieb. Your choice of the image size vs. panel size is exactly what I was refering to. Between the lack of color distinction and lack of space around the cutting,the image gets lost to the viewer. Hope I did not offend you by with this constructive critique.

JUst do an edit! 3 dots in uper right corner of post.

You did mean "Great" idea. We sure don't want to "grate" on anyones nerves or let water flow through the "grate". Are we having fun yet?

Only had 2 days to complete.

Very well done..but I dont see any vertical edges...almost looks like machine engraved?. Those who love these kind of meaningful wordings would surly prodly put it on disply!

I did a very quick cut of a Horse Head pattern I converted from a free stencil I found on-line. The cut panel is 5/32 x 10 x10 solid core Maple mounted on a ¼ x12x12 Cherry Backer that I stained dark with Minwax Honey. I added the “Mr Ed”(*) to the pattern, and yes I had to glue in the center of the “d”. The Frame is ¾” wide pine, primed and then painted with Glidden Max-Flex Chocolate Pretzel/Satin. It is not the Tan I was hoping for. Their colors are strange! Everything was competed in just two days. Comment and critique always welcome. * I recently delt with a Hearing Aid Specialist that treated me very well. When he mentioned his name he made a point of saying it was “Ed”… like “MR. ED”. The Show and the horse popped into my head and just had to cut a piece for him to display in his facility. Could not quite get a good likeness of the actual horse from the show, but thought this simple horse head pattern would do. I have a follow up appointment with him tomorrow and will give it to him then. EDIT 7/22: He loved it. Hung it up right next to the reception desk. I was pleased.

That is really outstanding!!!!!

While looking for a different color for painting a Frame, I found this Glidden product in HD and tried it on a lark. I’m happy to state that it pretty much does what it states on the can. “Dries withing 5 minutes (to the touch - my words) without drips or streaks.” It also states “Flawless Finish” which could be questionable, but quite close to the truth. It also states it is a Interior/exterior Paint + Primer. I found doing a good sanding job and applying a primer (I use either Krylon or Rustoleum) prior to applying the finish Glidden product makes for even a nicer finish. It should be noted that you must be careful not to apply it in too heavy coats. The paint lays very flat without puddleing, and because it dries quickly it allows multiple coats to be applied rather quickly. However, although it dries quickly to the touch, it takes a day or so to become hard and durable. Very easily marred before then. The available colors were limited at HD and the color names are quite unique, to say the least. I personally like the product better than most other spray can paint brands mainly because of the quick dry time. Makes finishing a frame a lot quicker. Doing a little research, I found that there are more colors and finishes available, that I did not see on the shelf in HD. Herfe is a link to HD Glidden products: https://www.homedepot.com/collection/paint/glidden-max-flex-spray-paint/Family-320730528 Hope some of you find this review useful.

Adding to my flower themed Art pieces, I was able to convert this illustration of Iris Flowers Into a scroll saw pattern. Due to the proportions of the illustration my pattern became 9” wide by 19” tall. The cut panel is 5/32 solid core Maple Ply mounted on a Hand Painted ¼” x 12” x 22” BB Ply backer. Again, Artist Acrylics were used to do the coloring. Most of the cutting was done with a Pegas #1 MGT R Blade except for a few small cuts that were done with a #0 Spiral. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Because I planned to paint the Frame, I used good grade of ¾” Pine, instead of my usual Poplar, that I ripped down to 1¾” widths. More cost effective. The well sanded frame was primed painted and then finished painted with Glidden rattle can Max-Flex all surface ultra-durable finish, this time a color called Black Elegance (really a dark Grey)/satin. Comments and critique always welcome. FYI, I will post my review of the Glidden product in the TOWN SQUARE/ GENERAL SAW SAWING topic.

Yep, I see the joint. I know you are experimenting with using the floor samples, but the exposed edges ruins a very well cut, beautiful cross. Just my opinion but not sure the free samples is worth it as a nice selection of solid wood, to me, would be a much more appropriate choice.

Nicely cut and framed!

The only thing the User's Manual says about Maintenance is. and I quote: " After a period of time, the belt may be aging and relaxation, resulting in image printing offset. You can use a screwdriver and inner hexagonal wrench to adjust screws ath the two positions of the machine, so as to re-tighten the belt". Translation is not to well done! BTW, I discovered the white 'what ever you call it' thing is a felt tip pen but have no idea what the sponge thing in the cap is for.

Jumping on Ray’s thread with my story. My new NEJE Master 2 that I purchased from Walmart arrived yesterday. Assembled and mounted it on a board today. Setup was simple and the operating software installed without a hitch. However, the User's Manual would probably be more useful if it had been just printed in Chinese. The English instructions are for the pits. Section on focusing the Laser beam made absolutely no sense. I think I have it figured out, but only because I watched some videos. Smallest sharp laser dot is the best. Then the section on inserting a file was useless. I only figured out by trial and error how to insert a file. It wasn’t obvious to me that I only needed to click on the words in the middle of the box. Haven't gotten into any of the additional software yet. Might not really need it. I was able to make a Logo image in Inkscape and exported it as a PNG file. I was able to load it (after a lot of experimenting) and figured out how to locate it in the 150 x 150 mm area the laser operates within. I was then also able to add it to 'My Collection' for regular use. This is all the plans I have for using the engraver at this time, so I do not need to raise it up as all my panels are basically 3/8" thick, which is right in the focus zone with the unit just mounted directly on the board. I have spent the better part of the day running test to find the combination of setting that I like the best. For now, I'm running it in the 'Fast' mode, with Laser Power at 30%, Burning Time of 20mS and Laser Brightness at Default. I set my Logo image size to 120mm wide which gives a vertical height of 48mm based on my image proportions. To allow the image to be placed in the back lower right side of a panel, I rotate the image and lower it to the bottom of the 150 x150 mm box. I have already marked out on the mounting board where the lower right corner of a panel should be positioned. It takes about 40 minutes to engrave the Logo. I’m happy, since the engraved Logo looks a lot more professional than the burning pen I was using. The marks locate the back bottom right corner of a panel. This is how in comes out, ready for a felt pen signature and a hand written year numeral. The bolt is jut there to hold up the end of the test panel as the lose panel underneath was smaller than the test panel. EDIT: Hey Ray (or any one). Do you know what these items are for. Came with the Engraver, I think the black thing is for focusing and maybe the wood blocks and papers are for doing some testing, but have no Idea what the green plexiglas, brush and the 'what ever you call it' is for.

Very nicly done! Those parralel straight lines must have been a challenge I know I have done some cuts with similar lines and they are a bear to keep straight and difficult to keep the cuts on the lines. Again, good work!