FrankEV

Why?

Probably, just not sure how soon.

600, also light 600 between coats.

I purchased a set of three Cat statue patterns from Richard Myrchak I found on Pinterest. I modified this one slightly to resize it to 7” wide x 14” tall and added tenons for mounting into the base. This piece is cut from 3/4” thick Maple. Cutting was done using Pegas # 5 skip tooth blade. I tapered the perimeter of the base about 6 degrees. I use a small cove bit in my table mounted router to ease/round over all edges. I applied a coat of Lacquer Sanding Sealer then sanded using my Dremel and lots of hand sanding (I don’t have a spindle sander which would make this kind of project much easier). Finish is multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. I’m thinking I may cut this pattern again, using a less expensive piece of wood (maybe Poplar), and finish it with High Gloss Black Lacquer. Comments and critique always welcome.

Find it here: New Pattern Announcements

I have a home made glue-up panel clamp made from two 3/4" x 18"x 24" plywood panels that have ribs glued to the top and bottom and uses 6 pre-installed bolts to provide a uniform clamping action. This clamp was made to work with my flat pprtrait panels, however I works with thicker items using squeeze clamps. When I cut a pattern out of a blank I drill a hole near the pattern perrimeter so the waste part of the panel remains intact, After cutting the two stacks I glued up the body parts in two glue-ups of 3 and 2, using the intack waste perrimeters to hold the stacks alligned while clamped in the Glue-up clamp. Gluing the two stacks together was a little more difficult to make sure they don't slip, but with the glue-up clamp I can carefully apply the clamping pressure uniformally to prevent any slipage. Simerally, Gluing the body to the bottom was done the same way, but centered basically by eye. Hope this info was helpful. I did a posting about the clamp I made and use, but I cant find it.

My version of Dave Monk's "Box for Valentines Day. I made it for my Lady. Wasn't sure I wouild get it finished for this Valentines Day, since I got a late start, but made it just under the wire. Lacquer drys fast so I was able to get the pic's for posting.

Back on January 24th, Dave Monk posted “Box for Valentines Day’ (https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/45253-box-for-valentines-day/) made from Maple and Padauk. I liked the box and asked him if he would share his pattern so I could make one for my lady, which he graciously did. A big Thank You to Dave. I did not have the necessary Maple and Padauk wood on hand and decided to order it from Ocooh. Delivery took some time and other priorities intervened, so I got a late start and had to tell her that her Valentines present would be late. Well, I got it started and the lacquer finish is drying as I write this. So, she will get it tomorrow, Valentines day. I modified Dave’s pattern slightly. My box is cut from blanks that were 8” square so the box is about 7 ½” tall by 7 ½” wide. I also decided to use five 3/8” layers (Padauk, Maple, Padauk, Maple, Padauk) which made my box 1 7/8” deep, allowing me to cut two stacks, a 3 and a 2. I use 1/2” Maple for the top and Bottom. The Top inset Heart detail was made from a stack of cut-outs from the body (Padauk, Maple, Maple) which produced a 1 1/8” glued up stack. When I cut the opening in the top for the Heart detail I undercut it slightly and sanded it to get a nice tight fit. The glued in inset piece projects 3/8” below the Top to act as a stopper for the Top into the Body and 1/4"above the top to provide the raised Heart detail. Dave has the advantage of having a Band Saw and a spindle sander which I do not have room for in my tiny shop. I eased all the edges with a round over bit in my Router and did all my sanding using my Dremel and a lot by hand. That is where I ran into some difficulty. Not the sanding but with the Padauk dust!!!! The Padauk sanding dust acks like a stain when it gets on the Maple. You just cannot wipe it off clean with a tack cloth. I even applied a coat of Lacquer Sanding Sealer to try and control the staining, but It did not really do the job. Like Dave, I finished the box with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer and added a Red Felt to the box bottom. I like the way it came out, but not happy with the Red staind on some of the Maple. Lacquer drys fast so I was able to sneek and take these pic's before she gets to see it. As always comments and critique is welcome. EDIT 2/14/22: My lady was very happy!!!!

Amongst the many, many, ‘Tree of Life’ patterns that pop up in Pinerest, this one is always there. The pattern is very simple and took very little work to convert it into a scroll saw pattern. I sized the circle to a 10” dia so it would fit nicely on a 12” x 12” backer. I cut it out of solid core Maple Ply but decided to stain it with Krylon rattle can Rustic Brown Stain to get the dead tree look. Cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 and #0 spiral blades. The backer is Solid Core Birch left natural. After mounting the finished panel was given multiple coats of Deft Lacquer. The Frame is my typical 1 ¾” wide Poplar finished with Minwax Mission Oak Poly/Stain. Comments and critique always welcome.

All done very well! Could you tell us about, or show, your detail for the Purple Heart inset trim. Is the panel set in the frame loose or glued in?

WOW! The GD will be very happy.

Unless it is pouring rain, after applying the shelf liner, I do all my glue spraying on the back of my patterns and panels outside. I simply use an old garbage can as a makeshift table. Before going outside, I get everything lined up and use blue tape, like a hinge along one edge, to hold the pattern in the proper position on the panel. Step outside, lift the pattern, quick spray both pattern and panel, smooth it down. Back in the shop in less than a minute or two. I hate getting glue oversparay on my bench and tools. If i use spray paint or polyurethane on frames I also do that outside by just laying out some rolled brown paper on the pavement... as long as the sun is shining. Wipe on poly is better if I have to work inside. Like others I use cardboard to prevent overspray of paint in the shop when I use spray paint on my work, but that is not done often. Staining or coloring of my panels is usually done by brush. However, I do sparay my panels with spray Lacqer in the shop, but just use brown paper to protect my my table saw that I use as a table. I do ge some airborn Lacquer dust, but this dust is dry before it lands on onything, so regular shop clean-up keeps that to a minimum. I get my brown paper in Lowes. It is 36" wide x 140 ft for under $12 and is considered a drop cloth.

Very nice and very thoughtful. I'm positive they will be liked a lot! Back in the early 1960's I was hired by the Long Island Lighting Company (Long Island, NY) and was required to join the IBEW but it was on the clerical side of the company, so not a very active Union. The IBEW for the field side (linemen and the like) were the strong active union that got us all our benefits...whatever they got we got!!! Eventhough I moved into management later in my carreer, in my retirement since 1996, I'm still enjoying the benefits that I receive that was the actual result of being an IBEW member.

Pretty lady...Pretty cutting.

Beautiful and extreamly well done!

In many hole patterns, it is not how many holes I can cut before a blade breaks, but how many holes I can thread WITHOUT kinking the blade. When that happens I know shortly thereafter the blade will break. The need to use very small pilot holes for many intricate patterns make threading the blades difficult and kinking the blade much more likely. A #2/0 spiral blade is a snug fit in a #68 drill bit hole and I have broken more than one new blade immediately after trying to thered it the first time only to have it kink. In patterns that have larger cut outs, a larger pilot hole can be used and if I'm careful, no kinks and the blade will last a very long time.

Google search produced this definition of "Furniture Grade"

Very nice work. Especially for first time using spirals. Jims patterns are great.

Relatively easy cut. Spiral #2/0 and #0 blades work best. No straight lines to worry about. Give it a shot...what do you have to lose. Can always use it for firewood.

Beautiful. Would love more info re: Panel size, wood thickness, backer, colored epoxy resin, etc.

Color works! The multi color piece is great. Well cut and well painted.

I could probably afford one of those, but...I would have to move my table saw, router table and sanding center out of my shop to make room for it, and it might not even fit through the short door. Thats what you get when you move to Florida and can only have a tiny shop. Congrats. Great piece of equipment.

Very nice, well cut. Ah, come on. only 185 Holes? Talk to us when you you do a piece with 600 holes and the cut outs are not much bigger than the drill holes.

Nice work. Gonna hang it up outside and turn you house into a pub?

A well cut very appropriate statement!!!!