TAIrving

Very nice cutting, but the wood could be better. Looking forward to seeing it on Alder.

I found it on Etsy Handmade Love Eternal Wood Ornaments, Wooden Couple Kissing Statue, Anniversary Gift, Couple Gift - Etsy. They are asking $50.93 but do not mention the size. I think I would want to do it about 10" high using 1/2" - 3/4" wood, maybe maple. What would be a reasonable charge for that on commission?

Thanks Ralph. I don't want to infringe on anyone's rights. Someone local had asked if someone could make one like that for them, so it would be on commission.

Does anyone know where I can find the pattern for this? I expect that someone owns the rights to this one and hopefully offers the pattern for sale. Thanks in advance.

Do a Google search on Tagua nuts. Lots of hits and pictures and artsy ideas about what to do with them. They are also called "Vegetable Ivory".

following

Here they are, waiting for her when she wakes up. I had almost finished the gnomes when SG published the heart pattern, so I did both.

I sorta like the heart pattern posted by Steve Good this morning, might do that one.

Scrolling is a hobby for me. I don't worry about how long it takes to cut a pattern. In fact, if Icut it too fast, then I have to start another one, and that's ok too. My metric of importance is how much I enjoyed that project. BTW, you should not ache after cutting. Check your posture while at the saw. Your saw and stool should be at an ergonomically good height.

Really nice-looking bowl Ray. I too like the contrast between the Paduak and the Maple. But I never could make it work. If its not the sawdust getting into the maple, then its the pigment bleeding into it. Here's a test for anyone wanting to use Paduak. Get a scrap of Paduak and immerse it in alcohol for however long, then put it on a white rag or paper towel and watch for the bleed. Then try the test with shellac, then with lacquer or whatever you plan to use for the finish. Then refrain from using anything that causes bleeding. I still don't have a solution for sanding and sawdust getting into the maple. Maybe John T @JTTHECLOCKMAN's technique is the only answer. "use a sharp cutting tool and never use sandpaper."

Very cute, makes me smile. And the frame looks great too! Where did you get the pattern?

Thanks Judy. That is timely for me as I am experiencing slippage recently. I had seen that video before and have a couple of the quick clamp renewal kits on hand. But it has been a while since I have needed to do this and it seems it might be time to do it again.

Very nice! Q: what is "root ruby?" Google search is not helpful.

Very well done, the choice of woods and the cutting! Mostly I like the sentiment, I have had dogs like that!

I also subscribe to a scroll saw FaceBook forum. It has many members and lots of discussion. Much of the discussion is from newbies about issues which I feel I could offer constructive comments. But then I look and see numerous comments with advice all over the map from good to clueless and I feel like one more comment will just get lost among all the others. So I now mostly ignore the SS FB forum and come here for more focused discussions.

Congratulations! That worked out well and you do indeed have 2 very nice portraits of Baxter. I have done quite a bit of resawing but I don't think I could do that on my bandsaw. Q - how thick was the original Aspen board?

1. Understand what causes the bubbles and how to limit them from happening. 2. Then have a strategy for managing those that do happen. Cause: a. From the wood itself. Wood is porous and dry wood has air in it. The epoxy will seep into the pores and air/bubbles will escape - into the epoxy. Some woods are worse at this than others. I once tried pouring epoxy into red oak, but that is another story. What to do: use a dense wood to limit this effect. Or better yet, seal the wood before pouring the epoxy. A coat of shellac or any paint / wood sealer will do. Be careful to get it into all the edges and all the tight places. b. From the epoxy itself. Part 1: when you stir the epoxy (as you must) you create bubbles. Stir the epoxy carefully to limit this. Part 2: the epoxy heats up and creates bubbles as it cures. Use a slow curing epoxy to limit this. Managing the bubbles: As stated above: a. use a less porous wood. b. seal the wood before pouring. c. use a slow curing epoxy. Table-top epoxy is best for pours up to ~1" thick, Deep-Pour epoxy for thicker pours. Table-top epoxy takes 4+ hours to cure, Deep-pour takes 12+ hours. Both of these make fewer bubbles as they do not generate much heat as they cure. And they remain liquid enough for long enough that the bubbles have time to rise to the surface and resolve themselves. d. stir the epoxy gently. e. then watch the YouTube videos on what to do about the bubbles. Think about what they are saying. Some YouTube advice is good advice, but not all of it is. That should get you off to a good start. Do all that and practice until you are happy with the results before pouring into your prized work. I wish I had known all this before I poured into my prized scroll piece.

Very nice Chris! And very creative. Bubbles do make an epoxy fill look unsightly. Perhaps we should have a tutorial on what causes them and how to deal with them.

No, but I have been looking at them and other sanding systems but am nowhere close to pulling the trigger. I compare those to the Foredom flex shaft sanders and its clones. Both allow sanding/grinding/cutting tools at the end of a flexible shaft. The advantage for the Guinivere is the inflatable sanding thingies. I wonder if you could get those and put them on another flex shaft sander. The advantage for the Foredom is that the motor hangs up out of the way and does not take up benchtop space. And both are a big step up from the Dremel style rotaty tools. I will be following this thread to see what others have to say.

Wow Monti, beautiful work! It is things like this that make me think I would like to get into intarsia. But I remind myself that this is not a project for beginners.

The big box stores here in the Republic of Texas also do not have denatured alcohol. So how are we to make our own shellac? BTW Ray @OCtoolguy,the alcohol dissolves the pigment from paduak. You do not have paduak sawdust in your maple, you have paduak pigment in your maple. Using alcohol to remove the shellac will only dissolve more paduak pigment and make the problem even worse. Regrets, but I do not have a solution to how to get the paduak pigment out of the maple.

Thanks Bob. I suppose now I will stop worrying about putting one on my Pegas.

It has been a couple of years since I cut acrylic, but when I did, I cut it with the plastic sheet that came on it and was happy with the results, i.e. it protected the acrylic from scratches.

Mark, that looks fabulous! Henry and his co-workers will love it. The font looks challenging, especially the thin inner part of the N and U. I had some of those silicon wafers from a job long ago, haven't seen them for years and doubt that I still have them. But I do remember how delicate they are. I see a possible problem with one part of your finishing plan, the part where you save the resin pouring till last. Resin can be a challenging material to work with. I suggest you practice on scrap material until you are comfortable with it and the process. TJ Brown has an article in the "How To" section of the Scroll Saw Village forum. Check that out. Resin is a liquid (before it sets) and likes to run everywhere, especially through any gaps, however small, between the project piece and the backer, but also into the grain of the wood itself. That is messy enough in and of itself, but when you pour the resin ever so carefully to be precisely level with the surface of the finished work, then any leak will result in the level of the resin dropping and no longer be level with the surface. Choose your resin carefully. Resin makes bubbles which look awful in the finished work. And the dried wood has air in its fibers which leak out into the resin as bubbles. Fast setting resin doesn't leak so much but does capture the bubbles. Slower setting resin leaks more but gives the bubbles time to resolve. Many how-to articles talk about ways to deal with the bubbles. I will stop rambling now, but strongly encourage you to practice before putting the resin in the finished project.

Beautifully done Matt! Did you cut the words out individually and glue them to the backer? Proverbs 3:3-4: I had to look it up, do not know the Bible from memory.