JTTHECLOCKMAN

All the time. There are no set rules. You do what you think fits your needs. The biggest thing is if the pattern has fancy filigree then going thicker can take away some of that look of delicate.

I stopped using adobe when I got new computer and really need to find something to replace it.

Hate to say it but yes. Things are not made to last any more. Plus with the ability of dust getting into where they mount these switches today, many people cover them and just leave them on and use the foot switch. Of course when done scrolling it is always best to shut off.

I am not disputing your reasoning, I just never heard that. Scrollsaws are relatively a safe tool to operate. My point there is if you get sudden blade breakage that saw keeps running as you search for that foot pedal. With a momentary switch your instincts are to jump and just slide your foot off the switch. I have seen people use footswitches on lathes as well and again if something goes wrong your mind goes into panic mode and keeping the lathe running can be dangerous. I agree that a foot switch is a device that all should use. It saves wear and tear on that delicate on off switch that comes with these saws. A footswitch has larger contacts and more durable ones to take that constant on off sparking. All my saws had foot switches momentary ones. I even gave away the ones with my Dewalt and Hegner when I sold them. With this said I have to say I read the best excuse to have the constant run switch that I ever heard and made me laugh but sorry forgot who said it. It was in a recent discussion and again forgot which one. But he said he uses the push on and push off switch because if he should have a heart attack and pass away while sawing at the saw, maybe his wife will notice after 3 or 4 days the saw is still running and she would look in on him.

Really that is the reason? It takes so little pressure to push down. The weight of one's foot will hold it down. To me they are far safer than push on and push off.

Yes as pointed out already with the notch on top. When people talk reverse blades it could mean those blades that have 5 or 6 teeth on the bottom of the blade to help with splintering on bottom of projects when cutting. But those you can easily run your finger down them and tell what end is top. The ultr reverse blads you need a little help and that is why the notch.

Absolutely they are worth the investment. There are different strengths so need to be careful of what you pick. If you have a place where they sell draftsman equipment like a Staples store you can test them out. Have no idea about what HF carries and am sure it is cheaper than anything out there but check Amazon if you find something you like first. Having the tubes weather led or conventional I highly suggest it have a plastic cover to protect the tubes from breakage. One of the pattern designers sells them. Forgot which one. I am sure someone will comment. If you can find one with controllable light output for Led is the way to go if going with LED. Led light can be too bright and not good for your eyes at those close ranges. May need a warm white. I have the old flourescents cicle tubes and bought them from a draftsman store. Not cheap but you get what you pay for.

lets take it easy now. OP asked about the ultra reverse blades from FD.. It does not work to run the finger down on those blades because there is a reverse blade every third tooth all the way up the blade so you will not feel the difference. At least not with my pudgy fingers. Thus the need for the identification on the blade with the stamping. I believe there are other blades like this in both brands where the teeth are opposite each other through the whole blade. There was discussion here about the notch on the Pegas blades and I do not remember much about it because I do not use that brand. Maybe someone can clarify the results of that.

Right on front of package it says Crimp on top of the blade.

I have a downdraft table that I use if I absolutely have to sand indoors but seems I can always take the project outside, even in the dead of winter to sand a project. Always did that. But I did buy a downdraft table and hooked to my 4" DC hose and it does capture quite abit of the dust but no dust collector ever made will capture all. As I said every tool has to be totally enclosed from top to bottom to capture all dust. Just not possible. Lot of this stuff is advertising hype. Now again do not get me wrong a DC along with a air cleaner or 2 are good investments but along with that a good filter mask. Trust me. You are not capturing all dust made in a shop. Just look around the shelves in the shop and wipe your hands across them and then come back here and tell me you would have no problem eating off those same shelves. Just the nature of the beast. That thing is huge for me to drag around my small shop. My dust collector is located in a closet built for it and I plumbed in the piping to tools I use. Now My tablesaw and bandsaw share the same outlet so I have to keep switching but no big deal. I was actually looking at those new magnetic hose attachments. I might convert to that. Right now my attachments are sleeves that I slide on and off the tool. Not bad but just maybe i will try those new things. I just got back into the shop this weekend so will be doing some cool projects. have to make some neat jigs first. Just got my Performax 16/32 drum sander back together and dialed in yesterday so that job is out of the way. Talk about a dust maker. I tried hooking that thing to my large DC but not powerful enough so I have it choked down to 2-1/2" shop vac hose and use that with a hepa filter and works great. I had an older Sears 16 gal that crapped out on me so I pulled that apart a few weeks ago and think I got that repaired but in the mean time I bought a Ridgid 16 Gal vac with Hepa on it and that does well also. have to empty more but depends how much I use drum sander. I will be using it alot next couple weeks because I will be milling many woods for some boxes I will be making. Winter shop time. I love it.

I watched the video and yes it looks like a solid machine but have to say. Just about any dust collector out there is good. The thing about dust collectors or dust in a shop in general is not the collector that is a problem, it is the tools and how you collect the dust from those tools. To have that large a dust collector for a scrollsaw is rediculous in my opinion. You can do as well with a shop vac. But if you have larger tools such as tablesaws, bandsaws, lathes, jointers and things like this that is where large collectors come into play. But again how are you collecting dust from those tools. Not only do you have to rely on enclosures around the tools but also what dust is coming off the tops of the tools and at the blades or bits that cause the problems. That is why his meter thing is so misleading. He is taking dust from one place and transferring to the bag on the collector. It is not spewed into the air like a tool will do. Plus most larger tools create chips and shavings and dust is a byproduct. Again that is where a large dust collector will prove beneficial. I just wanted to make a point when choosing dust collection systems. Air purifying systems will help alot in conjunction with dust collectors because it is the fine dust that is hard to see that can effect the lungs most. Plus when using dust collectors, sizing of hoses and distance of piping are all calculations that need to be considered to make them work efficiently. There are many books out there on this stuff. Many people think of a dust collector as a huge vac but it really is not. You just can not take the hose and place it near a tool and have it suck up all dust from the tool. They do not work like that. Anyway as I said just wanted to add a few things and hope everyone works safe.

You want a zero clearance chuck. You can change the entire chuck and get a good quality zero clearance chuck such as this. https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/1-2-ultra-precision-keyless-drill-chuck-mt2/ Or you can get a small zero clearance chuck that you stick in any drill or drill press. I believe Denny sells some. Maybe he doesn't I do not know but know he sells micro bits. You can buy on Amazon. but a really good quality one will cost much more. Just make sure it goes down to zero when closed.

Well to a point. You get into heavy grained woods then it gets tough to control blade movement. Early harvested pines do not do well. You can tell woods like this with the wide grain lines. Also you get into burl woods then they too can present problems. But your basic woods work well as mentioned.

When I was scrolling, red oak was my favorite choice and went through alot of Board feet of that stuff over the years. I also use all the other woods for detailing and have scrolled walnut in place of red oak because people wanted a darker wood. Big difference is if walnut is kiln dried or air dried. being air dried it is a much natural deeper brown and nicer wood than kiln dried for sure as with many other woods like that. people liked Mahagony also. Not much maple but did some baskets from it over the years. I still have a wider selections of woods that I am hoping to deplete over the next few years making a bunch of boxes and other items. I do not plan on buying any more lumber for things to make unless it really calls for it because I am to the point in life now I need to deplete what I have. I figure the family can give projects away easier than piles of wood. At least this is my thought process now but health will dictate that.

Kevin I seen it in the link you provided and have to say it looks like a press board or something as the inner layer and only one layer with 2 very thin layers on top and bottom. It does show a laser being used on it. Maybe that material is better for a laser other than layers of actual wood with glue like you say. It is not plywood between them for sure. I do not remember Carter using it. I have no idea where the puzzle stamp he sent me is to check. It is not cheap from the price I see in the link you provided. I know it is not in any Home Depot store around me. Maybe an order only thing. Just checked and yes an order only thing but I see they have a good variety of species. I may have to look into this for boxes that I will be making. I plan on veneering the tops and using BB as my substrate. I think I may get some to play with. Too bad it does not come larger pieces. looks like hobby woods. I read the questions and answers and they tell you just about all you want to know. The outside panels are 1-42" thick the inner core is poplar or birch depending where it is shipped from. both sides are not the same in some panels. One can be walnut and back could be maple or some thing cheaper. That leaves me out as an option for boxes. Looks like the vendor can cut panels to sizes with a charge. They have a web site. People like it for laser work because it is a biodegradable adhesive and not toxic when burned. I guess the center core is solid wood and thus this makes it subject to warp thus the small pieces. You can read all about it and see all the facts on it within that link. Pictures of middle layers all look the same so they use the same inner core for all woods. That can show up if used as scrolling in walnut. For that money I guess it is an option. But not for me. Plywoods and woods in general are just not the same as years ago. The harvesting is rushed and come from so many different countries you have no idea. As I said the Sande panels I bought have knots and terrible grain. I looked through almost a whole stack to pick a good sheet. years ago Home Depot carried beautiful Sande wood. Even the oak boards and maple boards sucked. $80 a sheet of 3/4" maple is not cheap. The Sande was $60. But it is more stable and flat compared to construction plywood and makes for better jig building. I do not care about grain patterns.

I am using sande plywood for some jigs I am making for tablesaw. Have to tell you this is nowhere near the same stuff I used to buy from Home Depot back in the early 90's when I built all my shop cabinets from it. Not even close. sande wood is from the Mahagony family but just like all species there are good quality and then bad quality. You have to look at the layers that are within the thickness of the piece. Just because the face is nice looking and solid if you are cutting and scrolling you want real wood layers of equal qualiity and that is why many times BB is expensive. Now again the quality varies from vendors to vendors. I looked at the maple boards and even the oak boards in Home Depot and again I would not pay those prices for that garbage. Now I was looking at 3/4" and 1/2" material. No not for me. The sande fits my bill and cheaper for what I am doing but would not use it to build cabinets. I do not know of the wood Kevin mentioned because not in the stores by me and if I can not see something I hesitate. I know what BB looks like but again you rely on vendors. I have had great luck from vendors on Amazon years ago but it has been a couple years since I bought any. I buy it for jigs and not to scroll.

Would scare the heck out of me. Poke a hole and all over the place. Not me. Put in a smaller can to compensate for air. Put a piece of plastic film on top . Look up finishing sites they have all the tricks. https://ardec.ca/en/blog/11/how-to-prevent-finishing-product-leftovers-from-drying-skinning-or-hardenin

That is the best place to get it. They run sales every now and then. That is where I buy from.

I too would recommend Timberwolf blades. They should be standard size blades. 59-1/2". Now there are different blades. PSwood has a chart that explains different blades.

I have Danish oil that is at least 10 years old and still as the day I opened the can. It is Watco Danish oil.

I do not scroll with it but made many of these type baskets. In fact I ordered some more boards of different colors about 3 years ago that I have never cut down yet. In the turning field we make pens, bottle stoppers and a lot of different items from this stuff. It does make interesting projects.

That is basically what that is a 2 puzzle pieces. There are many versions of 2 rings scrolled with a heart for weddings. The only thing I can think of is treat like an intarsia piece and basically copy what the design is and make in different colored woods like ebony and holly. Have to do some carving. I could not blow up the photo so do not even know what this does. Is it a neckless or sits on a stand?

Hard to say because not many use those blades. Can say this #5 blade is a stout enough blade to withstand cuttings like that though. I use FD #5 blades to cut 3/4" oak without a problem and get good life from them Alot has to do with other factors too. Speed at which you are cutting. How much force are you putting on the blade . if turning in tight corners are you allowing for blade to turn easily. Finally tension from the saw you are using. The more you cut the more you will be able to figure out what is right and what is not. It is all a part of the learning curve. have fun.

I hope to be able to welcome you in.

Good luck.