Multifasited

Looking well done ,shops unlike boats do not have to be put in the water to start to shrink ,shops just shrink on their own as you start adding the interior ,which is why portability is so important and plug and play connections are so very important .Only if you ever decide to move will you ever realize how much has taken residency in your shop. sweet start ,rest think and enjoy your major sccomplishments you will use for years .

Well I Guess you all know what wood to use for your next submarine .

All depends on you layout and use and of cource your eye sight ,I have 16 2/bulb 8' ers in my 20'x 30' ,how much is enough is personal usage of the areas in detail ,equipment and versatility you need .w/ enough out lets it's plug and play as needed ,things will likely change and new uses and equipment added ! I even painted the floor white ,for light and finding dropped stuff .roller tables do not like even small things loose on the floor ,almost all my stuff is on wheels of some sort ,again personal use is the real factor . Mine is multi-use year round ,can change most stuff around in minutes to inable room as needed for short interuptions of original main purpose .everybodies needs and abilities are different and may not be of any value to you .

The Blade (any blade is the boss your are but the steerer ) allowthe blade to do the work all the work ,till the flex ,all the flex is out before you change direction ) slow even easy pressure both front to back and side ways too ! plus everything above !

It's like advice for going on vacation,layout all the clothes your going to take and the money you expect to need THEN take 1/2 the clothes and twice as much money ,You can not have enough power outlets ,air drops or vac ports ,then you can change asyou go to whatever you grow into ,heat and cool is really nice ,good light esential ,nobody I know has ever had too many outlet( multicircuit ),at least one 220 v on each wall condit is excellent 4 way boxes you will not regret spending the extra later ,if you don't you will ! if you have room and exhaust fan is really nice ,code and mark your circuits in the fourway boxes , conduit is easy to modify if marked wires are there .I know that may put a crimp in the budget starting but it's truely the best advice so easy now so hard later .

Whoa ! the weather has finally come around ,been busy ,grass ,aquaponics ,pond ,and golf .scrolled a new water wheel for the pond ,plastic this time ,wood always swelled and absorbed differently changing the balance ,hopefully this is the last time I'll have to make a new one , I used , ceramic bearings so should be maintainance free .starting on some new decorations ,buildings and such winter really played havoc on the pond and dock etc,made a new sag proof dock assembly ,finish that this week and start on rest ,fish wintered well ,but pond decore caught hell,worst winter I can remember here since 72 . When I get it done I'll post some pix .Too busy to get into much trouble ,later!!

The thinner you go the faster it cuts go real real slow and steady ,or before you can say no it already has .(like the ex-virgin that stuttered Remember the blade is always the boss ,go with the finest blade and real slow and steady ,and your reaction time will increase till you get used to it .different woods cut different you need to adjust to the density and hardness of differing woods solids or ply . Reaction time to control whatever is the problem ,I never found stomping on it help ,if I had I stomp on it first before cutting . I hate sanding off footprints!!

I'm not positive but I doubt it , mfrg.interchange only happens as last resort !

Sorry to hear about your accident ,many will never admit they ever had one ,We all need a reminder every once and a while that the blade of any saw only does one thing ,and does not like you alot ,it don't hate you either it just cuts what ever is in it's way without fail. keep the faith ,thanks ,not much sympathy just understanding !

Try a product called P.B.Blaster to loosen up the chuck (not many products impress me but that stuff is incredible loosens up rusted needle nose pliers and a raft of other things )( no I don't sell the stuff or even have any stock ,just the very best squirel pi-s I have ever used (tech. Name ) Hard to beat a laser on any tool , Check on line I bet there is one that will fit it !

What ever you breath ,fine dust makes paste and coats moist things and makes breathing more difficult ,and coughing and blowing your nose whether it causes anything with a name to me is irrevelent ,I haven't heard anybody say with any gusto that it was good for you in anyway ,if your have a condition of any type breathing problem it is simply really troublesome and can be very serious serious .the rest are just playing with fire ! Believe me when I tell you when you are having problems getting your breath (NOTHING ELSE MATTERS) polin ,sprays ,flour dust ,saw dust ,perfume ,does not matter ,Take care be smart ,take some well meaning advice from some one who Knows first hand you can not reverse it .find something that works for you before you find out the hard way like me! I was once BULLET PROOF TOO ,NO MORE ,you damn sure don't want condition your every activity like I do to be to do things ,because of breathing problem ,and live with a inhaler strapped on your belt !

small nap!!

There is Only one answer ,That is what works best for you and your set up ,anything else is what works best them and their set-up ,and are IDEAS for you to try ,There is no right or wrong ,play till your Happy and works for YOU!

I just used a slotted aluminum tracks and the original pc. ,That cure frt .to back ,but the blade flex and pressure still exist in causing the bow ,fixes tight straight corners ,and the gallop in sawing ,but not the in and out bowing ,thicker wood moves the bow ,because all the cut is not in the center of the blade less flex at top more at bottom ,needing time to catch up back to straight ,before turning or cornering .IMHO

Finer than FROG HAIR !!

Man, the numbers on your ruler are really close together ! AND COLOR CODED TOO! It's no wonder your so Good!!

Too much swapping around for me ,you can get a jacobs chuck that will take them all ,just another reason I extended the throat on my small drill press. IMHO

Sounds like your splintering the ply wood as your drilling fragments are sticking out into the hole area and the second pass cleans them out not all ply wood comes from the same family or the same type wood ,or made and glued the same ,thats the only thing I can think of causing the problem !

I am lazy ,and loose charts ,so for 10 Bucks a hf on sale I got D. calipers ,and go by that ,never been wrong yet Handy for all kind of things ,I keep one pair in both shops , Being an old fieldservice engr. never saw a print or a chart that was totally Accurate ,and rebuilt kits ,seldom complete and usually wrong (oh! You have one of those!) (Oh! Yeah !! I see your notation now !!) Well it's friday I can't get any thing shipped till monday ,if we have all the parts ! So I quickly learned trust but verify ,CYA !!

Check tention ,Blade flex .and side pressure ,light ever pressure on the blade only toward the blades cutting teeth .allow time for the saw dust to be cleared as you cut ,slow steady,even pressue only toward the teeth ,side pressure and less tention cause cone shape ,by bowing the blade .IMHO This is in my opinion the major cause of most frequante problems with all cutting problems related to scroll saw ,the blade is so fine and is effected most by unintended forces from operater hurry !!

If nothing else you could part it out on the net ,

The above is all true ,the speed is subject mostly to the thickness of the stock and the pressure you are applying .this blade (SPIRAL) all sizes bow more and always in Multi directions of pressure applied ,you must allow time for that bow to straighten back out before changing directions and swapping force direction ,as allways there is less GULLET to remove the waste saw dust from the cut, slow steady guiding of the the work to the blade is (cridical) .Take a piece of scrap the same thickness cut out a big puzzle piece ,then look not only at the piece ,But the outer piece and you can graficly see the effects on the differing bow marks and the effects they have on anything close like bridges and narrow pieces ,then adjust the saw and you to get the effect and control you NEED!!!

Glad your satisfied and have a multi-purpose tool ,but even 8000 rpms is hardly drill speed in 1/2" maple your drill bit s, will get super hot, super quick so be very careful ,and buy plenty of drill bits cause your burning them up ! Bits get hot when run a proper speed @ 10 times + they can be dangerous quickly so be careful .

John , There is a difinite Love Hate relationship with spiral blades .Like some feel about thier saws, kind of my way or the hyw.,Probabaly more has been written here and other forums about apiral blade than any other ,check the older posts .The issue here really is the design of the blade ,basically it is a standard blade that is twisted evenlly locate a point in a at every point on the compass ,making it able to cut in every direction ,always cutting on three sides at once ,regulated by the direction of force applied ,The major difference in the life of the spiral is due to this twisting action of the teeth to create this type of blade the depth of the GULET the part of the blade that removes the cut wood is reduced to almost nothing in comparison to the same size straight blade ,ADD to that the fact that the same blade is cutting MORE wood ,that twisting adds Width to the blade as well as removing the GULLET depth and is now cutting of three sides at once the Blade is subject to more Wear and Heat than any standard blade Thus shorter life (HINT ,I use a candle touched to the moving blade to help the release and extend the cutting process ) Everbodies is correct ,the dulling of teeth has the effects mentioned ,and blade replacement is the only cure .slowing down the speed and pressure ,and for me a candle really help ,NO Matter what saw you use the Blade is the Boss!!! NOT you You are mearly a guidence system .How well you do your job has more to do with the life of the blade than anything else Lube really helps the release of sawdust on any blade ,if you doubt it try it !When You understand why the spiral is different and follow the rules related ,They work great and have a very useful place ,in you arsonal ,they are not for everything ,although with pactice ,they can do a lot more the Many think !JMHO and I use them a lot .

Welcome ,don't worry a bout Hallmark ,There new motto is when you care enough to send the best ,BUT are too dam lazy to write a letter ! Post what you can when you can we would all love to see what you building for the kids .