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Everything posted by jbrowning
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I bought a new upper blade clamp for the Hawk 226VS Ultra. How do you remove the pin that is holding the upper blade clamp to the upper blade arm? These isn't enough of the pin showing so I could get it with a pair of needle nose pliers. I don't think I would want to use a small punch to punch the old pin out. Any suggestions? I'm sure someone else has had to replace the upper blade clamp at sometime or another and I don't find anything on youtube showing me how to do it. Thanks in advance Jim
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I'm just curious why one of the saws the tension rod and spring is more visible than on the other one? Nothing very important. Just curious.
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Both, my Hegner is the perfect height for me to stand at and saw. Then when my legs get tired, I go to my Hawk and sit down and cut. Then when my fanny gets tired, I can stand up and saw some more on the Hegner.
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Hello everyone, the first picture is of the 226VS Ultra SN 10961 made in 1999 and the second picture is of the 226VS Ultra SN 6319 made in 1996? I hope the clarifies everything. Jim
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So on the first Hawk I bough about a month ago you can see the tension rod and spring. But on the one I just picked up last Sunday you don't see the tension rod and spring. Of course they are there, they just aren't behind that arm like the other one is. Any idea why this is? Is there an adjust that can be made to make them the same length or is there a reason why they are different? The throat still measures 26" on both machines. The back of the arm to the front of the angle adjuster (I'm calling it) are both 34.25" They are the same models 226VS Ultra Thank you everyone in advance. Jim
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See below the message I received from Niokole: Hi, this is a Hawk 226 Ultra. The new blade holder and serial number tells me so. This machine was created in Winter 1996. It has the DC motor and is pretty much rebuildable completely. The only part we don’t have it the cutting table itself. That is the older top mounting table. The upper arm wedge area may need to be reconditioned. We can machine repair that if you send your upper arm in for repair. We could also install the first upgrade I would suggest. The upper bracket conversion kit would replace the entire front bracket system with the same removable blade holder system that is on our BM series. I have attached the link to the online store for this kit in the email for reference. The other upgrade would be that loc-line upgrade for the air system. http://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/upper-blade-holder-bracket-conversion-kit/ The White clamp on the back upright is completely removable. That’s the desk/bench mount for the magnifying light. It either mounts into the large hole on the assessor arm or this white clamp. That’s what that is. Looks like a great saw! Nikole Smith I'm thinking I will order the upper blade holder bracket conversion kit and change that out and get the new air blower kit with the loc line so I can adjust it so it isn't blowing towards me. Has anyone here had the upper arm wedge area reconditioned and if so any idea of how long it took and a rough estimate? Thanks Jim
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Thank you Les, I will get it a look.
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Yeah, I have to say even after using my 226VS for 3 weeks every day my chubby fingers still have a hard time getting in and tightening the upper blade clamp. I might start looking at doing something about that. Other than that issue, I'm loving mine. I hope you get the blade change and tension sorted out.
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You know, if you don't have room for that Hawk. I can probably make a road trip to Ohio and take it off your hands. I hope you like it. Jim
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Well, I went into work this morning and guess what I found in the back of my truck? I swear, I don't know how it got there. But since it's there I might as well take it home don't you think. Motor Video Scroll Saw Video Model and Serial Number Video Well here is the story as I heard it: The story behind the saw is the mother in law bought it brand new in 1989 (she thinks) at the state fair, back when the manufacturers were still selling their goods at the fair. She had used it regularly up till about 10 years ago when her husband passed away and had to rearrange her life. Since then it has been sitting in the storage shed. It does run on all speeds and is nice and quiet. Came with the light and the foot peddle. I can tell the wedge in the back is worn so that might need to be replaced or reground at some point. I notice the upper are is different than the one on my saw. Not good or bad just different. I got it for $100.00.
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Thanks everyone, I ran to Lowes and picked up a small can of PBBlaster and a small wire brush. When I get tired of cutting tonight, I will try and clean those bolts. Thanks Jim
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Howdy everyone, I'm working on some cutting and am noticing the upper and lower blade clamp bolt/screw threads are rusty on my Hawk. Any suggestions on how to clean them? I have seen some folks say WD-40 and a wire brush but am worried the wire brush might damage the threads. I do have a nylon brush, do you think that will work? Thanks Jim
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First cutting on Hawk saw (new picture)
jbrowning replied to jbrowning's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Here is the picture of the boot with the interlocking spurs. Of course this would be the first puzzle I've done in a while and of course I would have to try it on the new saw. -
First cutting on Hawk saw (new picture)
jbrowning replied to jbrowning's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Hi Les, since it was only a couple of pieces. I'm thinking I was pushing too hard. The table is square with the blade. Thanks Jim -
First cutting on Hawk saw (new picture)
jbrowning replied to jbrowning's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Hi Kevin, well I cut the cowboy boot out with the spurs as the interlocking pieces. Took me about 1.5 hours just to cut it out, I still need to sand it tomorrow. I'm pretty happy with it, I think there a couple pieces that won't go together from the front and back. So I'm still pretty happy with it. -
Well, I took some time to play with the new (to me) Hawk 226 ULTRA saw tonight. I cut out a Christmas Tree (the same one in the bragging section) and only had one issue and that was operator error. The blade slipped out of the lower blade clamp holder. Didn't break the blade, just the blade slipped out. This was on one of my first corners I was cutting. Anywho, I put the same blade back into the blade holder and walla no issues through cutting the whole tree out. I was running it at speed 8 and had the blade clamp in the aggressive slot. I was using a FDUR5 and cutting on 3/4" Poplar wood. It seemed like it took just a wee bit longer to cut it out. But that might be a good thing, because I'm planning on using the Hegner when I'm wanting to stand up and when I get tired then I will sit down and use the Hawk (or at least that's the plan right now). I had absolutely no issues with the tension like the previous owner said she had. So tomorrow night I will cut out a boot jigsaw puzzle and see how well it does. Well all in all I am VERY HAPPY with the saw and might be the best $150.00 I have spent in a long time. I might be looking at another one pretty soon. Thanks to all the SSV folks that have helped me with answering my questions about the saw. I really do appreciate it. Thank you all Jim
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It is a Sue Mey pattern.
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I cut out another little project tonight. This is the first one I've done with a lot of lettering. This is cut out on 1/4" Baltic Birch Plywood. I might try and burn it around the edges a little bit. Thanks for looking Jim
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No, the trees are just cut out straight. I didn't cut them at an angle. And no glue was used on this project. That way the customer can sit the tree up as a 1 dimensional tree or sit it up as a 3d tree like I have shown here. Does this make sense?
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Well, I had a pretty productive weekend. I cut out a motorcycle, Christmas Tree (Iggy's pattern) and a Jigsaw Cowboy Boot. I won't bore you all with the motorcycle but here is the Christmas Tree and Cowboy Boot. These are all made out of 3/4" Poplar cut out on my Hegner.
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What.....are we suppose to change the blades?
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Thanks Kevin, I will take a look at that tonight.
