Jim McDonald

The table on that Dewalt will rust from the moisture in your hands and arms touching the table. Better get some protection on that cast iron.

I had the same question about my Pegas and was told as long as there are no bad scratches, no wax needed. Good because I'm out of Johnson's.

I'm sure someday I will need a 75mm (3") hole, but I'm sure I don't have a drill big enough!

I have used glue stick on smaller (<4x6) projects. Really hard to get an even 100% coat with the stick.

I think you're dialed in pretty good on the new saw. Congrats

I thought I heard Johnson quit making their paste wax. Would be a horrible shame.

Great saw and even though some people don't like them, I hope you got either the stock light or some type of aftermarket light. The lights make a difference seeing the black blades against the pattern.

And while you were at Walmart, did you buy a sweatshirt for a university that you have never set foot on the campus? (Looking at the Alabama and Notre Dame shirts out there)

"You should see what I saw"

Yes, removing the side panel made blade changes much faster and efficient.

I had one for a while. It was not a bad saw, but it had issues. #1 was needing a 3mm hex for blade changes. I upgraded to a DW788 and now drive a Pegas 21". Don't remember what I did with the CW40.

Commissioned for the birthday of a friend who has taught at the same university for 40+ years. It is the formal logo of the university and is only the fourth I have cut. This one is approximately 7.5 x 9 inches of 3/4" cherry from Ocooch. Base is two pieces of 3/4" buckeye from another project. Cut this with Pegas #3MGT blades and finished with satin lacquer. As a bonus, I glued the final blade to the bottom of the base.

Remembering that different manufacturers have slightly different numbering for their blades in both teeth and thickness, we will dive into this. After a few thousand inches of following the lines, one develops a feel for their prowess cutting. Some like blades super tight (guilty) while others will be just a notch lighter. Some like the tiniest blades (2/0) out there for everything under a certain thickness. For me, anything under 1/8", I gravitate to a #1 blade. Usually pick #3 up to about 1/2" or so, but I just finished a 3/4" cherry piece with some Pegas #3MGT. I am comfortable with that blade and that is my preferred sawdust generator. But, I still switch from time to time not only size but brands, depending on what I THINK might work better. So, I really haven't given you an answer other than to develop your own knowledge base from experimentation. There is no database of blade/material/feed vs blade. Everyone has a general idea what they grab first, but put 10 of us around a table and you will get 15 opinions. Just make some dust and memories.

People watching a re-release of "Blazing Saddles".

Saturday night before Mother's Day, I was being a good boy and sweeping the living room with an ancient Hoover. Fan decided to disintegrate and up through the housing and bag compartment the sharp pieces flew. Contents of the bag were well scattered. Had to run to Walmart to get a new one and the cashied said something to the effect of it not being a good present until my wife assured her is was just in the nick of time.

The bison picture is amazing.

Relatable on so many levels.

I made the same leap you are contemplating simply because I was afraid I was beating the Dewalt into oblivion. I gave the 788 to my son's MIL as she is the crafty type, but would not use and abuse that saw like I do. I am happy with my 21" Pegas. It is capable of things I don't plan to do, but "never say never".

Bird of Paradise is a great script font. You can find it at dafont.com. BTW, you're going to love your new yeller saw.

Spell checkers are part of the device software. Years ago, I spent a weekend teaching a client's software medical terms so they would not be flagged. As for the spell check "police", I developed a knack for spotting strange looking words as a young journalist 50 years ago. It has been a blessing or bane ever since. Don't always catch everything, but I hate to post with preventable errors.

A few things to consider: White LED bulbs come in various colors ranging from reddish golden to a bright white resembling sunlight. It's called color temperature. The higher the number, the closer to sunlight (around 5500° K) Also, some LEDs are prone to strobing, especially the cheaper ones. This is largely due to voltage being dropped to the 5 to 12 volts the LED needs and also the cycling of AC power. The strobing is usually not visible to the naked eye as your visual center compensates, but it will give you eye strain.

I have cut with just about everything except PS blades, including some pretty shabby hardware store blades. You need to get sample packs where you can and actually take good notes recording: species, thickness, type of cut (simple, complex, etc) and other variables. 95% of my stuff is cut with Pegas, but I still have a few FD and Olson blades I fall back on from time to time. You will devise a blade strategy based on speed, feed and species. It may develop tomorrow or it may take a bit. But, you will get the feel. And blades and sandpaper are the least expensive part of this hobby/craft.

I hate autocorrect since it tries to interpret my thoughts. If I enter the letter "a" by itself, this phone comes up with some strange group of letters and automatically inserts them. And, that is not the only example. (Just had to reset part of this line. "That" became garbled)

@bscroller unfortunately, Diana passed away several months ago. She had previously retired from designing.

Now I wish I had bought more switches when RadioShack was closing!