munzieb

Yeah! He must be flush with money now!

I made a "do Nothing machine" or trammel of Archimedes about a year ago for a project that needed an ellipse. There are several plans on the web. The narrow width is about 4". I made the groves with a router but there several ways to hold the sliding blocks in place. I hold it down with 2 sided tape and a rubber grommet to hold the pencil. If you decide to make one and you need a smaller ellipse, draw out the smallest one you can on card stock and then use a compass and then trace out a smaller dimension and cut out with a scissor and use as a template.

It's been 2 years since I was last at this show and it's about a 1.5 hr drive to get there. It was well worth the trip. There are a lot of demos and vendors but especially some great scrollers. I had a chance to talk with several scrollers but especially enjoyed talking with Steve Good. What a great and open guy. A nice experience. Spent some money with Rich at richardscraftwood.com booth. Good pricing. Interesting guy. Emigrated from Rhodesia. Definitely a well organized and interesting show to visit.

Hickory is only 1.5 hrs up the road. Planning on going and hope to meet some SSV members.

Many years ago, my wife and I vacationed in New England and decided to take a flight from Hyannis to Nantucket. PBA Airlines used to fly DC-3's to the island. The flight was under an hour and we rented bikes. We pedaled down to the beach for a few hours and then came back to the town for lunch and then flew back that afternoon. It was kind of unusual to walk up hill to our seats but the sound of those old radial engines was great. I've had the DC-3 on my scroll saw bucket list for a long time. I found a nice picture and started gobbling pixels on Paint 3D. The picture is 15 x 9 on 1/8" BBPW with a 1/4" backer. Shellac/lacquer finish. Love those old planes! Some history on PBA Airlines. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provincetown-Boston_Airlines

Glad to hear the shed is OK. Early snow is always tough on trees that still have their leaves. Is any of the lumber worth taking to the mill? Maple can have some nice grain.

If I'm doing some simple patterns, I'll spray 3m contact medium on the paper but if I'm doing complicated or intricate designs, I'll definitely use the tape from scrolleronline.com. It's not cheap $1.00 a foot (scroller does run some promotional discounts) but I am careful to use only an the exact pattern area and will piece together cut offs to save. Removal is easy. I always pre sand the wood before applying the tape and if it binds a little, I'll use some "Goof Off" and an acid brush to lift it off. It's my "go to" product.

Great article and great recognition!

Thanks Dick. The nice thing about the design is that the top creates a stop against the back of the box so it stays partially open. The 9 mm stop piano hinges do the same thing. Maybe one day I'll try to video record the process.

Side note on mounting the hinges. I buy them from Woodcraft and the screws are 3/8" long. The majority of tops I cut are 1/4" thick. I measure the depth of wood I am drilling and mark with tape on the drill bit. Then I wax!!! the screws and pre tap the threads into the bored hole until they stop. Then its off to the grinder to take them down to the proper length. I've developed a technique that has worked well for me to mount the hinges on the base. I mark off location equidistant and measure the folded thickness of the hinge (1/8"). My exacto blade set came with a supper fine saw blade and I will cut down to the thickness of the hinge on both sides and then score the length several passes and then chezel out the middle and file flat. (if you mount the hinges before assembly of the base, you can do this with a scroll saw) I drill and pre tap the screws (wax). Here is where the 2 sided tape is a god sent. I place a small piece on the base side and a larger piece on the top side of the hinge. I position the top to the proper location and press against the hinges. I use a small blade to lift the hinges off the base and keep them adhered to the top and mark the drill holes. I then go to the procedure mentioned in the beginning of the side note for the top. This procedure will also work for the 9mm stop piano hinges too. Hope this helps.

Those are "veining" lines and are part of the design pattern. I used a #2 skip tooth blade and drilled with a .006 drill. Not really complicated. Trick is to blow them out with compressed air after sanding to keep them clear so they stand out.

I had made this box pattern a few years ago using Paduak wood and the bane of Padauk is eventually gets darker. I had some pieces of 1/4" Bubinga and wanted to try it again. I had enough pieces for the top and sides but the pieces I had for the bottom was cupped pretty good. I had read a few articles on straightening out cupped/warped wood and thought to give it a try. I put some hot water in a plastic storage tub with a weight on top and left out side in the sun for several hours. It did straighten it out. I then sandwiched it between 2 pieces of 1/4" glass with 40 lbs of weight and kept it there for a few days. Amazing! It came out straight. I used a #2 skip tooth blade and it also worked well for the veining. I built the sides of the box first and they have two tabs that insert into the base and that also helped from further cupping. I finished with shellac and some light sanding and a few coats of Clear Gloss lacquer. I posted the book I had gotten the patterns from. I have done several other boxes from this book and I like their patterns.

Nice cutting. Really like the red cedar.

I have been using this web site for a few years and they have given me good service. Prices don't include freight and it may take a few day to get depending on the shipping service. http://www.woodnshop.net/baltic-birch-plywood/

Good to hear you are back and getting better.

I enjoyed making my Peacock Night Light so much I decided to pull out the patterns and try it again. This time I broke out the expensive wood, Babinga, for this project. It is definitely a denser and harder wood but does not change colors and darken like Padauk. This time I stack cut the 1/8" BBPW twice. I get too much blade drift with this fine pattern with anything over 1/4" total. I decided to Stain the panels to match the base, top and sides and found a red walnut stain at Lowe's. I applied a pre-stain to prevent any blotchy appearance and it helped. My wife thought it would look great if there was a pattern on the top. Knowing that Babinga can be a little brittle, I was hesitant cutting 1/2" material with such a fine pattern. The cutting went fine but when fitting it all together, I leaned on the top a little too much and broke off a piece of the pattern. Thanks goodness for CA glue, all better! Finished with shellac and gloss lacquer. I was kind of hoping that the top cutout would project up on the ceiling but I would need to add some kind of lens. I'll probably revisit the first one I did in oak to add the top design cutout but may "hog" out a 1/4" of material since it is 3/4.

Funky stack cuts, fragile cuts, spray glue on the wrong side. Bob Ross's "Happy Accidents" don't apply here. Been there and hated it. It actually doesn't look too bad.

Really nice fret work. What kind of wood and how thick?

Holy Turkey!! Great Job.

Welcome to the site. Lots of knowledgeable people here that are glad to help with Technics, ideas and encouragement.

Came out great! Like the contrasting sides and top and can't beat that Texas inlay. Nice job!

I have been bugging my sister about sending me a picture of her and B-I-L I could cut. She found one she liked and sent it to me. Started the design process. The hardest part is getting the "light of eyes" right. I found out the bridge has to always connect in the same direction. I also had to do some modification on my B-I-L ears. I realized the the top of the ear lines up with the top of the eyebrow and the bottom of the ear with the bottom of the nose. They probably taught that in art school but I never made it there. They are coming to visit next weekend and I hope they like it.

Kevin, thank you for your compliments. I hope your eyes are not impacting the wonderful and talented scroll work you do.

Aerodynamic, high speed turtles. Chrome? right, silver paint on plastic..... fast but no class.

A few years ago I was at a local car show and was impressed with a 1953 Cadillac convertible. The yellow color and all that chrome really looked great. I found my original picture and started my pixel gobbling designing. I eliminated the shadow on the front but added more lines than needed. (Started taking them out as I started cutting, things got a little thin!) Some of the reflection on the chrome threw me a little too. I always cut the text first in case I screw it up. I did! The "3" upper internal loop was a little too fancy and it fell out... Tried, but couldn't glue it back in. Started again and now have a piece for another project. Font is English 157 BT TTF. The plaque cutting is 1/8" BBPW with a 1/4" backer and is 18" x 12". Love my UPS store for enlargement/copies $1.36 for 4 on gloss card stock. Time to give the cars a rest. Working on a portrait for my sister and still have several pieces of 1/4 and 1/2" stock for boxes I need to use up.