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TAIrving

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Everything posted by TAIrving

  1. TAIrving
    The hummingbird pattern is from Steve Good's post on May 31st. I did not do the box, just the hummingbird pattern. It is done on 3/8" ambrosia maple. The Tree of Life is my second attempt at doing epoxy with this pattern. This time the wood is 1/4" mesquite.
  2. TAIrving
    According to The Wood Database Lilac has variable colors "Colors can be variable depending on species. Sometimes seen with reddish or lavender color streaks throughout the heartwood." Lilac | The Wood Database (Hardwood) (wood-database.com)
  3. TAIrving
    They are both visually attractive. But I like the black one. Red does not seem quite appropriate for the theme.
  4. TAIrving
    Gene, I have not tried scrolling a mesquite panel thicker than 1/4". It is sufficiently strong at that thickness. I usually glue together a couple of pieces to get a panel wide enough for my patterns in order to work around the worst of the flaws. Thurman
  5. TAIrving
    Very nice Dick. Great use of the features of the wood as a part of the picture!
  6. TAIrving
    Thank you all for your kind comments.
  7. TAIrving
    I am still learning about working with epoxy. The Tree of Life is my second attempt. The wood is 1/4" mesquite. Drips & Dragons is a Fiona Kingdon pattern I had cut a year or so ago. I had been trying to figure out how to finish it and this sounded right for it. The wood is 1/4" Monkeypod.
  8. TAIrving
    I stumbled upon this video of Fiona Kingdon doing epoxy pours in her scroll saw projects. Those of us interested in epoxy pours in scroll saw projects might get something out of this, I certainly did.
  9. TAIrving
    Looks great Charlie! I am impressed that you cut it 3 times. And the plexiglass cover looks good. Red Oak and epoxy are NOT a pairing made in heaven. You have to seal ALL the cut edges of the red oak before pouring. I hope you do not give up on epoxy. Having made a couple of mistakes, you are well on your way to learning the craft.
  10. TAIrving
    I just ordered a few Renewal Kits from Seyco, the second time I have purchased these from them. The kits work fine on my Pegas scroll saw. These parts are a normal wear item on the scroll saw and should be replaced when they show signs of wear, i.e. blade slipping. BTW, they are currently $8 at Seyco.
  11. TAIrving
    Yes, seal the wood before you pour, especially if the wood is porous, such as plywood, oak or such, and most especially the edges of plywood. Then you can do a deep pour. I prefer to use a deep pour epoxy. It is thin and fills in all the small places. It is slow to set and I let it set overnight, maybe even 2 days depending on the weather. That gives it time for any bubbles to float to the surface and resolve themselves. I do not use a heat gun to speed the curing as that might cause bubbles and, at the same time, speed the curing to the point that the bubbles do not have time to float to the surface and resolve. Hope this helps. Don't give up just because you had a bad result on the first try.
  12. TAIrving
    @Gene Howe Gene, what brand of epoxy did you use? I used MAS Deep Pour and, as I said, was not successful in getting the level of polish I wanted. @Tj Brown, TJ, can you comment? I see in the tutorial that you use Promise brand epoxy. Are you able to sand/buff to a reasonable lustre? Also, which of the Promise brand epoxies do you use? Looking on A**zon, I see several: labelled "Table Top Epoxy", "Deep Pour Epoxy" and "UV-Art Epoxy".
  13. TAIrving
    @Gene Howe I have been working on this also and have the same question. TJ tells us to sand and then spray with polyurethane. I have sanded up to 1000 grit wet & dry sandpaper and still have not achieved the level of polish I want. Maybe I was too impatient and sanding longer would eventually get there. But I stopped and then sprayed with lacquer and it got significantly better. I am still trying for a really polished finish. If you manage to get there, please tell me how you did it.
  14. TAIrving
    Not a Hawkeye, but very nice work!
  15. TAIrving
    Very nice Tim! I like all of them.
  16. TAIrving
    Thank you for the great tutorial. My first try was good enough to encourage me to do more (and to pay closer attention to the tutorial.)
  17. TAIrving
    Thanks for all the kind words. TJ, @Tj Brown, I bet you did not have the great tutorial to help you on your first attempt.
  18. TAIrving
    A trick I have occasionally used is to type the text/name in a PowerPoint and save as *.jpg. I can then import the *.jpg file into my pattern and stretch/resize it to fit. With a little practice you should be able to make this work and look good.
  19. TAIrving
    I also use the NEJE Master 2 Mini laser/engraver. My logo is one I designed for myself.
  20. TAIrving
    I used the Tree of Life pattern posted by @Eplfan2011 on March 15 and credited by him to site TreeofLife-trchkf.pdf where you can download it for free. I then tried filling it using the tutorial posted by @Tj Brown. I am reasonably pleased with it as a first attempt but I will try again, having learned from my mistakes.
  21. TAIrving
    @Travis, Very nice article on BBply, well researched and well written. I learned things I had not known about BBply. On the flip side, you have not mentioned short-comings of BBply and, as a result, the article comes across as a sales pitch for BBply. Disclaimer, I am not a fan of BBply. Perhaps I have unknowingly been using inferior quality BBply, I don't know. I prefer working with hardwoods. Nevertheless, here are some of the things I do not like about BBply: 1. It does not finish as well as good hardwoods. The surface being a softwood (Birch), it does not sand as smooth nor take a stain or finish as well as hardwoods. And it will never give the beautiful grain patterns we expect from hardwoods. But it is ok if you are just going to paint it. 2. It makes fuzzies, as do most any softwoods. 3. The edges show the plies unless you go to extremes to cover them. That is a turn-off for me. 4. Maybe the price of BBply was an advantage at one time, but it is not anymore.
  22. TAIrving
    Love it! The concept and the execution!
  23. TAIrving
    My family are saturated with scroll saw works I have given them. They have gently suggested that I try selling some of my stuff (rather than giving it to them.)
  24. TAIrving
    Great video. Thanks for posting it @BadBob Every time I watch it I start thinking about the mix of waxes I would use and get inspired to make my own paste wax. Then I check on the price of the various ingredients and realize that the minimum amount I would be able to make would create enough paste wax to last me a lifetime and then some. So, having been so inspired, I think I will still stick with what I can buy premixed. The Trewax posted by @MarieC looks like an excellent choice.
  25. TAIrving
    Starting a new thread so as to not highjack the other one. What wax can we use next to protect our machines, now that Johnson & Johnson no longer makes/sells their product. My can of J&J is running low.
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