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TAIrving

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Everything posted by TAIrving

  1. Not a Hawkeye, but very nice work!
  2. Very nice Tim! I like all of them.
  3. Thank you for the great tutorial. My first try was good enough to encourage me to do more (and to pay closer attention to the tutorial.)
  4. Thanks for all the kind words. TJ, @Tj Brown, I bet you did not have the great tutorial to help you on your first attempt.
  5. A trick I have occasionally used is to type the text/name in a PowerPoint and save as *.jpg. I can then import the *.jpg file into my pattern and stretch/resize it to fit. With a little practice you should be able to make this work and look good.
  6. I also use the NEJE Master 2 Mini laser/engraver. My logo is one I designed for myself.
  7. I used the Tree of Life pattern posted by @Eplfan2011 on March 15 and credited by him to site TreeofLife-trchkf.pdf where you can download it for free. I then tried filling it using the tutorial posted by @Tj Brown. I am reasonably pleased with it as a first attempt but I will try again, having learned from my mistakes.
  8. @Travis, Very nice article on BBply, well researched and well written. I learned things I had not known about BBply. On the flip side, you have not mentioned short-comings of BBply and, as a result, the article comes across as a sales pitch for BBply. Disclaimer, I am not a fan of BBply. Perhaps I have unknowingly been using inferior quality BBply, I don't know. I prefer working with hardwoods. Nevertheless, here are some of the things I do not like about BBply: 1. It does not finish as well as good hardwoods. The surface being a softwood (Birch), it does not sand as smooth nor take a stain or finish as well as hardwoods. And it will never give the beautiful grain patterns we expect from hardwoods. But it is ok if you are just going to paint it. 2. It makes fuzzies, as do most any softwoods. 3. The edges show the plies unless you go to extremes to cover them. That is a turn-off for me. 4. Maybe the price of BBply was an advantage at one time, but it is not anymore.
  9. Love it! The concept and the execution!
  10. My family are saturated with scroll saw works I have given them. They have gently suggested that I try selling some of my stuff (rather than giving it to them.)
  11. Great video. Thanks for posting it @BadBob Every time I watch it I start thinking about the mix of waxes I would use and get inspired to make my own paste wax. Then I check on the price of the various ingredients and realize that the minimum amount I would be able to make would create enough paste wax to last me a lifetime and then some. So, having been so inspired, I think I will still stick with what I can buy premixed. The Trewax posted by @MarieC looks like an excellent choice.
  12. Starting a new thread so as to not highjack the other one. What wax can we use next to protect our machines, now that Johnson & Johnson no longer makes/sells their product. My can of J&J is running low.
  13. Very nice Barb, I love the pattern and you have done a great job of cutting it. And it is a very nice piece of wood, I really like cherry. Per your question, how thick is the wood? 1/4" is too thin for a trivet and more than 1/2" is too thick & heavy for a wall hanging. At 1/2" I think it will work either way.
  14. Found this about it:
  15. @OCtoolguyI also had a problem with the Pegas MGT 2/0 blades breaking when I tensioned them. I don't like adjusting the large knob at the rear as that affects other properties of the saw. The technique I now use is to press ever so slightly on the side of the 2/0 blade to introduce a little bit of extra slack before tensioning. It takes a little bit of practice but after a while you develop a feel for it. @kmmcraftsI also do like Kevin said to get the extra slack out of the EX type saw (I have a Pegas): i.e. I clamp and tension, then release the tension and clamp, re-clamp and re-tension. For the OP @Eplfan2011: I have not experimented with different brands or types of blades. I use almost exclusively the Pegas MGT blades, the #3 and #1 being my go-to blades. But I will use larger blades for some projects (thicker wood, simpler cuts) or finer blades for finer details in fretwork. And i will use spiral blades, mostly for larger kerf when that is called for.
  16. Thanks TJ, I will give another go at it.
  17. Thanks TJ @tjbrown. Very nice explanation. I have one question. I tried this previously and had a problem. I used blue painters tape on the back to hold the epoxy in the cutouts. But the epoxy seemed to dissolve the adhesive of the tape and the epoxy leaked badly. I have not tried again due to the leakage problem. My question is: does the adhesive of the packing tape hold up or does it tend to dissolve from the epoxy?.. Another member posted a video of Fiona Kingdon pouring epoxy and she clamped her project piece to a backer to prevent leakage. And I see that you used a backer along with the packing tape. Did you also clamp you piece to the backer?
  18. The cutting looks very nice. What is the verdict on the Hawk?
  19. I have been following this thread and hoping it might work out for you. Now I see the listing says "sale pending". Wondering if that is you @BadBob?
  20. Beautiful cuttings Frank. I can see the attention to detail. Both are very nice, but #2, the black & white, really works for this subject and gets my vote. My wife loves zebras and this shows me what I need to do to make a zebra cutting for her.
  21. Does anyone else have sleep apnea? Do you have any experience with Inspire? I have known that I have apnea for 30+ years. I have tried many types of therapies, including CPAP, some of which worked for a while, none of which work for me now. I am now on track to get an Inspire implant later this year. But first: I had surgery to correct my deviated septum and then had an infection in the surgical site, now under control. For now, I am to avoid breathing wood dust or anything else noxious. And I may not put any pressure on my nose. So, no mask, no shop time. I wear one of these to suspend my eyeglasses off my nose. Amazon.com: Pro Optics Pro-Nose Guard, Black, For Eyeglass Suspension (1) : Health & Household For now, no woodworking, not golf, just lurking around the house, driving my lady crazy.
  22. I am a scroller first and foremost. But I also enjoy wood-turning and dabbling in other forms of woodworking. Nothing big, my shop is too small for that. I also enjoy studying and investigating the many aspects of woodworking. I read the Wood Database to learn about the properties of the various types of wood. Friends who do other types of woodworking have given me leftover pieces of many types of wood, some of which are slightly hazardous, so I have learned to be cautious. Like others of our members, I am on an enforced, temporary sabbatical right now due to medical issues, will do a separate post about that.
  23. From her website: "I work out of a draughty shed in the garden, with minimal kit. " Read her statement about herself at Fiona Kingdon Scrollsaw Artist in the U.K — Fiona Kingdon -Fine Art in Wood. Click on the tab "Who?".
  24. Yes, what Ray said. I cut two of her patterns as a challenge to myself. They were really intricate cuts and I upped my fine cutting skills in so doing. But even then I understand that i am acting the role of a craftsman, cutting a pattern, while she is the artist, looking at the piece of wood and envisioning a pattern for that piece of wood.
  25. I have a Pegas scroll saw and mostly use Pegas MGT blades but occasionally use spiral blades. For hardwood panels in 1/4" - 1.2" I prefer the MGT3 blade and will switch to the MGT1 for finer details. I will then use a spiral blade for veining as the flat blades make too narrow a cut. I will go to a MGT2/0 blade for really fine details. For compound cuts, typically a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" hardwood block, I prefer the MGT5 blade.
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