Joe W.

It was just a passing thought - like you, it took a little while to get used to and I went slow as I didn't want to mess up the letters.

Thanks Frank. The lady said it was going to be placed on a bedroom room, a guest room as I understand it. I have a 1/8" backer for it the same outline as the pattern. Colors are light blue for background and yellow for the sign itself. It was an interesting difference going from cutting mostly 1/2" & 3/4" patterns to a single piece of 1/8"baltic birch. Much slower speed for that piece.

So this lady at the Farmer's Market asks if I could make her a sign for her. She wanted Welcome with a fish underneath of it. So I did some old school manual (scissors and tape) and merged two of Steve Good's patterns together and emailed her a copy. She liked it, so this morning I got a good refresher in cutting 1/8" Baltic Birch and small cuts. Went slow and am happy with the results. Now to turn it over to the painter (my wife) for her to finish.

Don, here ya go . . . Craftsman N893887 23 Gauge Pin Nailer CMPPN23 202130 BA66188 2021.07.19 N893887, Made in Taiwan The above is a label on the box it came in. Part of a set - Air Compressor (CMEC6150), 23 gauge pin nailer, 18 & 16 gauge nailer. The Instruction manual that came with it and the label on the pin nailer itself lists 1/2" to 1". Was last year's Christmas present to me from the kids. Good luck

Yes, definitely experiment. I found with mine 100 psi would have the pin go in and be flush with the wood, versus having a little bit of it sticking above/out.

I used a Chraftsman 23 gauge pin nailer with 1/2" pins with pressure set at 100psi. Assembled the pieces upside down - largest piece on the bottom working up to the smallest (base) piece - nailing from the underside at all the intersecting pieces of wood. No pins protruded out of the other pieces they were nailed to. Just to be sure, I tested it first on a couple 1/4" Baltic Birch scraps. The pins I use are: Metabo - Item # 22999SHPT. 2,000 to the package. Pretty sure I got them thru Amazon.

Thanks. 1/4" Baltic Birch with a colored wash.

Cut this Steve Good pattern ou,t once before and used wood glue which took some time with marking and being careful to not get sloppy with the glue. The kids got me a pin-nailer this past Christmas, so I tried that out and it went a lot faster. Which got me to thinking if anyone else out there used a nail gun for putting together their works?

One could always contact the publisher directly and ask for clarification. 50/50 chance you'd get a straight answer

That gets an Oooh aah from me!

About the middle of June I ordered the Pegas thru Denny. It arrived well packaged and I got it as far as the living room. Took my time getting it out of the box. The carton had an extra layer of cardboard all the way around inside the box and the machine base was attached to a ¼” piece of plywood, sized to the carton, restricting movement. Styrofoam filled in the open spaces making for a good solid fit. Removing the extra interior layer of cardboard made it easy to lift the scroll saw with the plywood attached base. The Tilt handle was not attached, but I figured it out and easily attached the pieces to make it functional. I got as far as turning it on before “The phone call.” Very quiet machine which I believe indicates tight tolerances. An old ex-neighbor of ours called me, asking for advice on laying a tile floor at the inside entrance of their house. And would I come over and take a look. The term “bait and switch” comes to mind . . . turns out a contractor did her wrong in a big way in remodeling/updating her bathroom, family room and bedroom on the first floor. Long story short; I remodeled/restored her bathroom over the next 6 weeks. Whew! On a positive note, it paid for the Pegas scoll saw. Now it’s the start of August with free time to make a wood stand for the Pegas. Not being an on-going carpenter, I did a bit of head scratching and triple-checking to ensure the 5 degree angle cuts for the three stand legs was accurate. I really didn’t want to have to make a second (or more) trip to buy more wood. Long story longer, it turned out right. I hadn’t done any cutting in at least 3 months, so decided to start cutting using some practice scroll saw cutting patterns.| The Pegas’ top is: 13” all the way to the back compared to the round-ish DW which is 16” at the widest point and tapers to 4” at the back end. The Pegas arm lifts a bit stiffly for changing blades, etc., (and stays up nicely while doing so) but I figure over time will loosen up. It is not so stiff to be annoying (just different from what I was used to with the DW). Blade changing is a smooth and efficient operation. From a “feel perspective”, I find locating the slot for the bottom blade by touch easier than I do with the DW scroll saw. The Pegas top clamp screw is also a little stiff to turn (compared to the bottom one), but again, not to the point of being annoying. Tension lever - so far, after cutting out 12 patterns (most stack cut) over the span of approximately 16 hours, I had the bottom blade pull out twice. Which I attribute to my not tightening the screw enough. Cutting at full speed (and at other various speeds) was/is a pleasure. Vibration: There is a video out there showing a man cutting wood on the Pegas with a Nickel standing up on its edge on the table. So, I tried it and was happy to be able to do the same. There is a “however” though – the nozzle on the air hose noticeably vibrates (about ¼+” back and forth) at a point starting at about ¾ speed. The vibration diminishes mostly the highest speed, but is still noticeable. Which is a little distracting if I’m using it at that speed range with the most vibration. My takeaway on that is - the table and stand is solid -The Pegas stands up (pun intended) to the nickel – but the plastic air nozzle is light and long and attached just at the point where the linkage is for the saw blade clamps. As an experiment, I taped a small weight (50 cal lead ball [3/8ths ounce/11grams) near the end of the air nozzle – it eliminated the nozzle from vibrating at any/all speeds. I don’t recall the DW hose vibrating like that, but full disclosure; it’s in pieces now awaiting rebuild, so can’t give a valid comment on whether or not it vibrated or not. Cutting speed: I checked it against the DW788 and was surprised to discover the Pegas max speed is 200 strokes per minute less. However . . . the “out of the box” setting for the cutting aggressiveness appears to be less (a more straight up and down cut) than the DW788. Subjectively, I feel I am able to make tighter cuts easier at a faster speed. Bottom line on that – I don’t think/feel/believe the 200 strokes per minute makes any substantial difference. I’ll leave it up to the engineers to figure that out. Weight: the Pegas is about 6 pounds heavier than the DW788. Oh, and on that note, good job on putting a paper well displayed showing a picture of how to lift/move the machine. Tilting head: haven’t made any cuts with it – yet. But have tested out the mechanism and it works just fine. Dust removal system – I don’t use it. But it’s there if I change my mind. Steve Good has a video on it that does a good job showing its effectiveness. Overall assessment: First and foremost - I am a satisfied customer! Customer service was excellent. Placing the order was easy and delivery was prompt with no damage. The best comment I can give is that yes, I would buy it again.

Welcome from Delaware. SSV is a great place!

You are in the right place. Welcome!

Now THAT'S different! well done.

Welcome to the village from the East Coast - this is a nice place to pick up tips and tricks.

A really nice walk down memory lane. Thanks for sharing.

Looks like another money making idea

Letters are sooooo hard to cut - and you got all of them just right!

Indeed!!!!! Could not have said it better.

Welcome from the First State. You are in the right place - it's packed with priceless information when it comes to all things scroll sawing. And people willing to share it.

As always, your works of art . . . are works of art. It pleases the eye. The leaves' shades of green is a subtle but nice touch.

As an alternative (and maybe less costly?), a "branding iron" could be fashioned, small enough to attach to an electic wood burning pen. Heat it up - press against the back of the backer - and [Bob's your uncle"] done.

Way Smart!

Unique - I LIKE it

Not sold in stores anywhere! Good job!