Jump to content

wood source


Runa

Recommended Posts

I have been using birch plywood (1/4", easy to get cheap in big hardware stores) to get some practice but realize they are a bit fragile when it comes to doing something that has holes that are too close. I am wondering what type of wood most of you scroll in for practice but also for things that you may sell/gift?

 

Which is a good place to source the wood?

 

I appreciate all responses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What Mr. Rolf said. I buy my hard wood from a local lumber store. Rough planed @ 1" thick in widths of 8" - 14" & up to 12' long. I have all my own equipment to plane, joint, & cut to whatever size I need. 

As far as practice, if I were you, decide what type of projects you're wanting /interested in takin' on, & go from there. Personally, most everything I work with I plane to 1/2" or there abouts. All hard wood. Leave the plywood alone. You'll dull blades faster'n you can change'em because of the layers of glue in it. Stick to WOOD. 

Even if you're makin' ornaments, use wood if possible. If you can't plane it yourself, your local lumber yard usually will.

To be honest, I don't practice. I've got enough years at the blade, I've got the project planned out by the time I get it on wood. If ya want to practice, go to HD or Lowe's & ask to go thru their scrap bin & get ya some pieces there. Or, find ya a construction site & dumpster dive. You'd be surprised at what they pitch in the trash. It'll be pine, but it's still wood!

Edited by SCROLLSAW703
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unlike the first two commenters, my workshop consists of a scroll saw and ....... that's it. So I buy all of my hardwood in already dimensioned pieces, usually from Ocooch Hardwoods. I look ahead to what projects I may be doing in the near future and order accordingly. I am sure I pay a lot more but I work with what I've got.

If you want an easy/cheap hardwood to start with, visit your local big box store and get some poplar. Cheap wood and easy to work with, that way you don't break the bank if you are just "practicing".

I keep 1/8" Baltic birch around just to use as a backer for fret work/intarsia projects.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Runa said:

I have been using birch plywood (1/4", easy to get cheap in big hardware stores) to get some practice but realize they are a bit fragile when it comes to doing something that has holes that are too close. I am wondering what type of wood most of you scroll in for practice but also for things that you may sell/gift?

 

Which is a good place to source the wood?

 

I appreciate all responses.

Runa I have bought good plywood from the company in the link below. This plywood has no voids in the middle or edges. I think the grade is called " 3B " and is clear on both sides. I also buy " 4B " grade  which is a grade down from a local supplier for $24 for a 60"X60" of 3/4" plywood. They also have 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" for sale. They also have hard woods that I mill to size.

http://www.ocoochhardwoods.com/

 

https://www.wolstenholme.com/plywood-products/baltic-birch/grading/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the others said about the plywood - the stuff at Lowes isn't the good stuff. Try some real baltic birch from online or from your local rockler/woodcraft and you'll see it's much better. They also sell hardwood ply in walnut/cherry/maple that has an MDF core. It's nice for some things. I use the plywood only for my jigsaw puzzles though because I don't like the look.

For regular wood I use whatever has the color I want. I can take it down to any thickness with my saws/sanders and only occasionally have trouble if I try too thin on brittle woods like purpleheart or open-grained like Wenge. I don't bother with the domestics from Home Depot - I can drive an hour to a real lumberyard if I want maple or poplar and pay 1/3 the price.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For practice plywood is great..because it lets you get a feel for blade control.. I suggest practice with plywood rather than hardwood.. Why?... because BB plywood is pretty consistent.. cutting hardwoods has hard and soft spots in the wood grain.. that really complicate things for a new scroll sawyer.. 

I have a shop full of equipment as well.. and dimension most of my lumber to whatever my project needs are.. that said though.. for thin wood and making ornaments.. I typically make them from plywood... for a couple reasons.. first being.. plywood doesn't cup /warp like the thin wood will.. second is because of the strength of the plywood for small ornaments of thin wood ( especially red oak ) will break easily along the grain on very detailed pieces.. which is especially a bad idea for a new sawyer..  All of my ornaments used to be made of hardwoods.. but as I got busier selling them I found that I don't have all the time in the world to search out "GOOD" tight grained wood.. cutting my own hardwood got to time consuming to resaw and plane down enough wood to cut a few hundred ornaments a week.. purchasing the wood already cut to size proved to get me a lot of cupped / warped lumber by the time I got home with it..      

I'd suggest the good Baltic Birch plywood.. not the stuff sold in the big box stores either..    Good luck with your practicing.. take your time learning..

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brad that was John T. that 

On 10/9/2017 at 1:54 AM, SCROLLSAW703 said:

What Mr. Rolf said. I buy my hard wood from a local lumber store. Rough planed @ 1" thick in widths of 8" - 14" & up to 12' long. I have all my own equipment to plane, joint, & cut to whatever size I need. 

As far as practice, if I were you, decide what type of projects you're wanting /interested in takin' on, & go from there. Personally, most everything I work with I plane to 1/2" or there abouts. All hard wood. Leave the plywood alone. You'll dull blades faster'n you can change'em because of the layers of glue in it. Stick to WOOD. 

Even if you're makin' ornaments, use wood if possible. If you can't plane it yourself, your local lumber yard usually will.

To be honest, I don't practice. I've got enough years at the blade, I've got the project planned out by the time I get it on wood. If ya want to practice, go to HD or Lowe's & ask to go thru their scrap bin & get ya some pieces there. Or, find ya a construction site & dumpster dive. You'd be surprised at what they pitch in the trash. It'll be pine, but it's still wood!

Brad that was John T. not me. But I also dimension my own thin wood from rough sawn lumber, much cheaper in the long run.

But I do use quality baltic birch for certain projects, mostly 1.5 and 3 mm. sometimes  I use 1/4 especially for clock gears. less potential for warping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...