Multifasited

The angle of the of the blade to the table ( YOUR CHOICE) based on what your trying to accomplish ! That is the key ,( table to blade angle !) I used a mechanical angle finder contacted both the table and the blade ,hard to read (alot of set and reset -read reset ) till your chosen angle was reached ,I just bought a magnetic Johnson angle finder with a nice easy to read dial ! $10.00 happy only for a minute ,that mistic something is wrong feeling creap in my head (as you get older ,you listen to those better ) the old way was always right ,why was this different ? DUH ! So ,I checked the blade to table angle with my small machinest sq. tightenen her down and found the magnetic angle finder on the table in front of the blade was minus 1 1/2 degrees left of center , Which ment the saw is not completely level . Lesson learned (If your saw is not level side to side exactly ) a table angle finder will mislead you ,my saw is not off but a fraction ,but,still will make a big difference if you are going to press fit raises and lowering like I do ,those of you who remember geonometry know about what effect it will have . surest way is to continue the old method does not care if the saw is dead level,and use the new one after saw is really level acording to the angle finder ,with the blade and table sq. to each other ! Mine is mounted on non adjustable hard rubber feet on house floor , I can not Imagine how far off a concrete poured floor is. If you don't tilt your table (NO WORRIES) if you do ,well you know the rest ! Great Idea ,just not well thought through .But I learned something ,and I guess that is progress! Sheesh!

The Dog is thinking (Now Those are my kind of frisbees) Well Done!

Can you cut the screws to length an put in from the back?

Start out very slow ,machine speed and push speed ,till you get the feel for controling the cut ,increase speed as you can while maintaining control of cut continue till you find your best conbination.too much push speed at any machine speed will not allow dust to clear and pack the blade with dust It(MUST) be able to clear or the blades no longer cutting properly ,and that is main reason some people have so much trouble with spirals ,It is always cutting on three side at once ,depending which way your pushing the work ! Go slow at first and sneek up on it and you will love them ,TRY to force them You will hate them That blade will give you instant feed back about either or both speeds . IMHO anything else is like trying to nail jello to the wall ,and has the same sucess rate!

work excellent ,subject will never be of any interest to me ,snakes and I are like oil and water we don't mix .when we meet he has seconds to retreat or all hell breaks loose .I love animals ,serpents are gone or dead .Hate them that bad !

I think a rustic frame would be excellent for that beautiful pc.,Look at past posts ,about frames there are many how tos ,if you want to make your own ,if not Dolar tree Might have something ,it's not a normal size . Even t&g flooring has a grove in it ,just rip it down ,4- 45 degree corners ,I don't know how much or what tools you have in your shop ,! Table saw & a miter you could make your own ,With a router you could lap joint and rout a rabbit ,! hope that helps others will be along .

You ,sure pick the easy ones ,with little detail ! All excellent .Your either extreamly fast or very patient and methodical ,Either way I Give You 5 ATTABOYS !!

very very Nice!

Final suggestion ,try some ANTI_SEIZE on the threads of the new clamp screw ,just on it's threads ,not the set screw or the pivot ,I think you will be amazed at the difference that it makes ,in use and life of of the new clamp! when you are convinced do the top one TOO ! Gauling is what makes them stick ,Hard bolt threads into soft alum. threads ,builds tremendous heat through rotating friction as threads inter act to create clamping force in such a tiny area ! It is not a lube ,it acts like a heat sink keeping the two differing metals nano microns apart eliminating Gauling action of softer material ! any auto parts ,has in tiny pouches and big bottles ,sm. pouch will last you a life time for this application.

Some thing is a miss in that lower Clamp ,you mentioned you changed pivot in clamp screw ,I wonder if there is wear inside the clamp screw allowing the new pivot to tilt ,I would suggest replacing w/new clamp screw comlete w/ pivot .Before doing any thing else .JMHO !

I assumed the bending was the problem ,you were having trouble loading to the next hole ,are you breaking blades or what? If there is a slight bend there in the bottom clamp that you never unclamp till the blade is wore out ,I don't understand the issue.If you are breaking blades at the bottom clamp ,there is something a miss in the lower clamp causing that bending &breakage . if your straightening them ,and they don't break ,doesn't seem they are hard and brittle . Best I can think of with information provided ,Would like to here what you find IT was when You find it !

Scrappile ,the direction of the bend toward the front of the saw ,and other things yousaid lead me to believe you Top load,andthe bend is problematic on the next load ,I bottom load ,so I can see the clamp-up each time ,I looked at my FD#3 even the flat tips arn't really straight ,I reversed the clamping like top first then bottom ,like you I think do,if the blade is not all -ALL the way back in the clamp when I tighten the bottom clamp it wants to push and bend toward the front of the saw ,the slight twist wants to push it that way .on my knees w/ a flash lite I watched it ,your right getting all the twist out helps ,BUT being spirals slight temp changes will add or subtract twist ,just like a fine spring does .Can't Say that's your problem for sure ,try top loading afew and see if you can't catch it in action ,Although it will have a tendency to go to the back not the front ,due to the rotation of the spiral twist .another reason I bottom load w/ a side lite switched and hole marked with pencil ring ,it faster for me ! Best suggestion I can Give !!

I thought thats what I said ,just some more round the bush ,Yankee talk!! The blade should be tentioned well and only go up and down , I guess your right in a way your the boss as long as you do every part of your job perfectly, any err's, the blade becomes the boss and will instantly show you the err of you ways ! The Blade ,always DOES it's job exactly the same way every time !

5- ATTA-BOYS

I still think there MUST be a clone in the wood pile! LOL

Give the boy a break between voice recognition and toe typing ,I think he does AMAZING !!

Spiral blade haters forget that the BLADE is the boss ,slow down ,it's cutting on three sides at once ,at all times ,you are just a manual feed mechinism for the wood . All blades are the boss , Spirals just drive the point home instantly when you forget your job !

Welcome ,Anything and everything here some where ! You have a good saw there ,looking forward to seeing some of your projects ,check out the pattern dept.excellent !! Later carl

Welcome Jason ,You forgot ,Too Much ICE AND SNOW , My mother was from Franklin sister-in Law from New Castle ,former buckeye . Look forward to seeing some of your work .

A blade only has to be as sharp as the operators ability to get the results and finish he wants ,although the extra force required and flexing of the blade will have an effect on the machiine ,the operator ,and the work piece . I personally have enough trouble controling a sharp blade ,the time (or ) life of a blade to me is it's ability to clear saw dust out of the cut in puffy dust as soon as too much flex in any direction appears ,I change blades ,bear in mind I seldom use over a three on any blade ,or over 3/4" matreial mostly 3/8"-1/2" ,all of these things make a difference .Harder ,softer ,thicker ,plywood plys ,dry. Green ,and resin content . Too many variables for simple answer ,Only simple answer is how happy you are with the cut in what ever material your attempting to cut and the finish you desire . Blades are cheaper than wood and doing over ! JMHO !!

Nice work now all those have CLASS!

I hope it gets there soon ,I know your ready ,People rave about them ,Good luck !

extreamly well done ,thats a mega holer.fragile too I'll bet .5 ATTA-BOYS !!!

I'll be damed Christmas cookies with ribbons on the ! They will last way passed stale .TEEHEE!

Any store that sells knitting and sewing supplies,I use the self stick shelf (frosted) ,cheapest i could find ,cheaper than tape or the advertised scroll stuff on line .pretty tuff stuff ,hair dryer or heat gun removes very easily ,leaves very little resado if any cool heat leaves non ! Glasses used for needle point etc.they work great wit my trifocals ,and flip up when changing blades etc. and no reflections like i always got with mag lite if any other lite source was around ,plus no constant changing mag lite and gives you free open area for hands .