dgman

Les, weather it’s right or not, I always assemble first, then apply the 50/50 mix, either by dipping or brushing if the item is too big to soak. Then I’ll shake of the loose oil then use compressed air to blow off the remaining oil. After the oil is dry, I’ll apply my topcoat, usually spray lacquer. Here’s a clock I made a few years ago. Made from 1/4 Cherry and Maple. No stain. Finished as above.

Beautiful composition and execution!

The clamps look just like stock DeWALT clamps, which do not take pin end blades.The main thing I don’t like is the dust collection system. It has doors you have to open to access the lower blade clamp. Also, it has a flat steel table. On the DeWALT and Delta saws, the tables are cast iron which helps dampen vibration. I have noticed on my Pegas saw which has a steel table, has a little more vibration at certain speeds than any of the three DeWALT saws I have owned. The vibration isn’t critical, but it is there. Hopefully our good buddy Steve Good will do a review on it.

Very interesting!

Amazing work!

Yeah, it looks very much like a DeWALT. Maybe Steve Good will do a review.

Yup, this is exactly the way I resaw my hardwood blanks. If the blank is wider than the saw blade will cut, I use a Japanese back saw to finish the cut, then run the two blanks through the planner to get rid of the ridge.

The first question is are you talking jigsaw puzzles or stand up puzzles?

Very cute!

Ok Ray, if you’re staying, we have to meet! Next time you head to Santa Barbara, you need to stop by if I’m not working. I’ll even give you a gallon of M/S !

I live in Ventura County in Southern California. It is readily available at any hardware store here. I use it for my 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. I use this mix in place of Danish oil or any other oil finish. The boiled linseed oil brings out the natural grain and color of hardwoods. The M/S thins the oil to allow the oil to easily flow around the piece and into cutouts, and allows the oil to dry overnight. Then apply a topcoat. I also use M/S to remove stubborn patterns. I keep it in a plastic spray bottle and spray onto the pattern. It takes a few minutes, but the pattern will lift right off. I used to soak adhesive nozzles in a small jar filled with M/S but now, I just wipe the nozzle off with my finger after every use. if any cast iron top needs cleaning, I’ll wipe it down with M/S, then if needed, I’ll sand it with a fine grit sandpaper with my R/O sander and some M/S. I also use it to remove labels off of anything. A couple of years ago it disappeared from the shelves here. But it came back. I keep a couple of gallons in my shop in case it happens again.

Nicely done Paul! Love the Sunbeam!

I like it Don! Congratulations on being vaccinated!

I agree with Paul. This project calls for hardwoods. Personally, I couldn’t dream of using BB then staining. With Walnut and Maple, there is no staining necessary. An oil based topcoat will bring out the natural grain and color of the walnut and the Maple will add a nice contrast. You could also use Cherry, Red Oak or Mahogany. By using hardwoods, this clock will become an heirloom!

I have not tried them but a skip tooth blade is always recommended for compound cutting. Depending on thickness of your blank, I would go with. #3, 5 or 7. There is no reason they wouldn’t do the job.

I have an old Delta Boss. Cast iron table and indestructible! Built in fan that sucks the dust into a dust bag. 1/2” to 2” spindles. I have had for over twenty years. I definitely would recommend it except it is no longer made.

Looks good Marg!

Very nice Denny!

I stopped in to Lowe’s in Thousand Oaks CA. Found two box’s of 12 3M 77 on the shelf. It’s obvious they were just stocked. $9.99 a can.I only bought one as that will last me about a year.

Nice work so far Jim! Looking forward to seeing the completed project. How do you like the Pegas saw? I received mine in March, ordered from Denny. Having used DeWALT saws for over twenty years, it took a little effort to get used to the Pegas, but now that I’ve got the hang of it, I love it!

1 1/4” is extremely thick to cut on a scroll saw but is doable. If, as you say the table is perfectly square to the blade, you are applying lateral pressure to the blade causing it to bow when you are turning the wood. It takes practice to cut without the bow. Make sure you have plenty of tension on the blade. It must make a high “ping” when you pluck the blade. Practice using thinner wood and a larger diameter circle. Once you have mastered that, then move up to thicker wood. Good luck!

Assuming you are talking about standup puzzles, I like using Cherry. It is stable and very strong. If you drop a piece on a concrete floor, it might dent but won’t break. I also use Walnut, Maple and Sapele. The only issue with cutting 3/4” Cherry and Maple is they tend to burn when cutting tight corners. The trick is to keep the wood moving through the blade. I typically use FD UR blades in sizes 3, 5 and 7. If you are talking about jigsaw puzzles, I use 1/4” Baltic birch plywood with an Olson 2/0 skip tooth blade. Here are a few standup puzzles I sell.

Beautiful work Ron! What kind of wood did you use and how will you finish it?

Nice work Charlie!

What a nice gesture Don, very nice work!