Jim McDonald

I usually by from Ocooch, but Klingspor in Hickory, NC has had good plywood when I was passing through.

I love 1/8" for stack cutting my ornaments. I normally stack 4 to 6 layers depending on the complexity of the design. I also use a fair amount of 1/4" material, but rarely go above that--unless it is a special purpose. Is it a waste of money? Probably not. Was it overpriced? Probably.

Also check Goodwill. Some have boxes of old cables.

Dremel makes some really thin blades and cut off wheels. Menards has a good selection. I would bring you some, but my DIL has all my rotary tools right now testing for a project.

@BadBob not only do I remember the old bbs systems, I had an employee who ran a couple. (When my wife was finishing her dissertation, Ohio State libraries had eight dial up lines to access a very limited database of their collections. You could read along as the screen scrolled into the buffer to save your data.) Also, I used to sell radio control tanks to the folks at CompuServe. They used the tanks to pull in "fish" cables. With the tracks, they could climb over existing cabling in the chases.

Great cuttings. Was just out by your place Saturday and was wondering how you were doing.

Be hard to find a state color, since all the different college fans would lobby for THEIR school color. Imagine here in Indiana where IU, Purdue, Notre Dame and others all wanting their color to represent the state. (Except Notre Dame doesn't know if their color is blue, green or gold.) And the inevitable blue/green discussion in Michigan.

If you have a spray gun or airbrush, you could use a dye stain like Unicorn Spit. It can go @100% or you can cut it with water.

Since I do 99%of my work on the patio, I spray out in the grass. If it is only one or two pieces, I just spray half the blank, turn it and spray the other half (hand held). Last night, I had several pieces, so I put a rubber glove on my left hand and sprayed them all. That way, I didn't have to be quite so careful with the nozzle.

I have used a nail board for painting, but never thought of it for gluing. But, I don't do a lot of that type of gluing.

I just yesterday started a round of wood to wood and wood to metal projects with E6000. Seems to a great job, but is a lot like some of the tube style glues from the past--it can be runny. (I'm looking at you, ghost of DuPont Duro).

This may be the book you are looking for:

Absolutely great work on the pattern and the execution of the total design. HUGE pat on the back!

There are times I take the challenges when I get tired of the repetition of some of the "favorites" I seem to do in infinity.

I have been on the magazine board for about 15 years and have watched it trickle to a shell of its former glory. (There might be 10 or so active posters). I lived through the software debacle and actually was a beta tester for the current format which I have never warmed up to. As for folks monitoring the site, there used to be three or four staffers who were very involved in the board. I found The Village during the software conversion and have been a member for a few years. Since I don't do FB, the two forums are my outlets. I do follow both on Instagram. As for Steve's board, it was a grand idea that I tried for about a month. I think I even tried the Cafe.

The table on that Dewalt will rust from the moisture in your hands and arms touching the table. Better get some protection on that cast iron.

I had the same question about my Pegas and was told as long as there are no bad scratches, no wax needed. Good because I'm out of Johnson's.

I think you're dialed in pretty good on the new saw. Congrats

I thought I heard Johnson quit making their paste wax. Would be a horrible shame.

Great saw and even though some people don't like them, I hope you got either the stock light or some type of aftermarket light. The lights make a difference seeing the black blades against the pattern.

Yes, removing the side panel made blade changes much faster and efficient.

I had one for a while. It was not a bad saw, but it had issues. #1 was needing a 3mm hex for blade changes. I upgraded to a DW788 and now drive a Pegas 21". Don't remember what I did with the CW40.

Commissioned for the birthday of a friend who has taught at the same university for 40+ years. It is the formal logo of the university and is only the fourth I have cut. This one is approximately 7.5 x 9 inches of 3/4" cherry from Ocooch. Base is two pieces of 3/4" buckeye from another project. Cut this with Pegas #3MGT blades and finished with satin lacquer. As a bonus, I glued the final blade to the bottom of the base.

Remembering that different manufacturers have slightly different numbering for their blades in both teeth and thickness, we will dive into this. After a few thousand inches of following the lines, one develops a feel for their prowess cutting. Some like blades super tight (guilty) while others will be just a notch lighter. Some like the tiniest blades (2/0) out there for everything under a certain thickness. For me, anything under 1/8", I gravitate to a #1 blade. Usually pick #3 up to about 1/2" or so, but I just finished a 3/4" cherry piece with some Pegas #3MGT. I am comfortable with that blade and that is my preferred sawdust generator. But, I still switch from time to time not only size but brands, depending on what I THINK might work better. So, I really haven't given you an answer other than to develop your own knowledge base from experimentation. There is no database of blade/material/feed vs blade. Everyone has a general idea what they grab first, but put 10 of us around a table and you will get 15 opinions. Just make some dust and memories.

Bird of Paradise is a great script font. You can find it at dafont.com. BTW, you're going to love your new yeller saw.