Wichman

In my opinion, fresh pine construction lumber is a good choice. Old pine gets pretty hard and can be difficult to cut. Do not start with redwood or any hardwood with distinct bands in the wood the difference between the soft and hard zones make cutting, when you can't see the grain, difficult.

When you get ready to print a pattern make sure the fold line is as thin as you can while still able to see the line. Fold the pattern as accurately on the line as you can ( a ruler with a cork strip helps to keep slipping to a minimum ) , once the fold is started gently continue to fold to a sharp crease. Unfold the crease to about 120°, spray with adhesive, start the pattern on one edge and holding that edge with one finger, carefully set the pattern down the crease. Starting at the center of the pattern, press one side down working from the center out. Once one side is down, repeat for other side. Once you cut the first side ( I cut the wider of the two sides first ), you will need a way to hold the first cut in place while you cut the second. There two common methods to do this; 1. Use a jig. 2 tape the pieces together with clear packing tape, the tape has to be clear so you can see the pattern. Press the tape firmly, otherwise sawdust can get underneath the tape and obscure the pattern lines. Troubleshooting: If the cut piece will only come out one direction then the table is not square to the blade. If the cut piece will not come out either side, then the blade is bending inside the cut; a dull blade, not enough tension, or the wrong blade style can be to blame. If one side is thinner than the other then; Blank is not square, the pattern is kitty wampus, the table is not square to the blade, all of the above.

I would start with coping saw blades, you'll have to pull the pins out, but that's doable. If you like the saw and scrolling you can get bandsaw blades down to a #5 scroll blade from a Pegas dealer, not sure if Denny carries those. It would work out to about a dollar a blade.

The style of clamp works by pressing two plates together, with a small area at the back of the clamp to hold it together. When used with the proper blade thickness it has a clamping surface of about 3/16". If the blade thickness is mismatched to the clamp that surface is reduced, sometimes to a pinch point, which increases wear and can cause premature blade failure (that's what happened to me and why I have all three sizes ).

https://www.advmachinery.com/pages/hegner-scroll-saw-instruction-manual?_pos=1&_sid=a6b64a089&_ss=r

The more you know. I checked my holders and what do you know, I had switched two of them. I didn't know that the middle size, .7 mm had a dimple. Now the middle size has a dot of fingernail polish as well.

From the horses mouth: https://www.advmachinery.com/products/hegner-blade-clamps

Good advice in both responses. I'll add my 2 cents worth. Yes, Hegner makes three sizes of blade holders, and you cannot tell them apart with the naked eye. You don't need them to start and until or unless you've decided that you are going to use the respective sizes a lot. If you decide to get the other size(s) then plan on a way to mark them, I used fingernail polish, or you'll be using feeler gauges to tell them apart. I agree that sample packs are a good way to start. But get sample packs in a logical manner. A sample of blade types, all the same size, for example. Once you have a blade type ( Polar, scroll reverse, penguin silver, etc) then get a sample of different blade sizes of just that type. When you order blades, throw in a blade type you are unfamiliar with, give it a shot, and keep your options open. As for practice, there are many practice patterns available. If you have the time and patience then spend some time just learning how the saw cuts and develope muscle memory. If you know you are weak in one type of cutting, then print a test pattern with your regular pattern to keep developing your skills. (If you have issues with letters then print off a couple of letters in the waste area of a pattern). Give 'er a go and remember, it's all just one hole at a time.

I am working on another Elkaholic piece. This one will be a wall hanging. Size 5/16" X 10.5 X 16 inches. I save the fallout from around the fragile areas, the antlers and lettering on top. After cutting about half of the top, I tape the fallout back into place ( top only ), and then cut the other half. This gives support while cutting. Once cut , I tape all of the fallout back in, again only the top, so I have support for those fragile areas while I sand the fuzzies on the back.

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho.

If the company in question was located in a foreign country and the infringement was also in a foreign country, then yes, there would be little one could do. Temo is doing business in this country and is subject to our laws. And yeah, it would be crazy expensive to pursue this very far. But, if enough cases were started, it would attract the attention of State AG'S and then the Federal AG'S Office.

Here's a link to the temu website that will directly deal with the issue: https://www.temu.com/intellectual-property-policy.html?refer_page_name=bgch_support_question_detail&refer_page_id=10392_1734921478606_vg9gv1ujzp&refer_page_sn=10392&_x_sessn_id=8amnc3mksj

Also available at Amazon and eBay.

What did the German clockmaker say to the clock that would only go "tick-tick-tick"? "Vee hav vays of making you tok".

I use two different masks. One in the shop and the other if I need one when I'm out and about. For the shop I use a Gerson. I found that if you twist off the original filter, the mounting receptacle for replacement filter packs is there. I use the replaceable pre filters to extend the life of the Organic vapor cartridges. https://www.harborfreight.com/p95-maintenance-free-dual-cartridge-respirator-large-67727.html https://www.harborfreight.com/p95-prefilter-pad-refill-3-pack-56984.html https://www.harborfreight.com/organic-vapor-cartridge-2-pack-56988.html https://www.harborfreight.com/multipurpose-nuisance-dust-mask-with-replaceable-liners-94222.html

Here are a couple of pictures of the N95 pre filters for my respirator. If you're not wearing a mask, this is what you may be breathing.

Mike's workshop I've been buying blades from there for years https://mikesworkshop.com/collections/blades/products/xl

A word of warning: One of this type of clock was featured in scroll saw woodworking and crafts; spring 2007 issue 26. The plans in the magazine are missing some information, that information is available at Http://wooden-clockworks.com/ The website is supposed to have additional patterns but very little works on the website, possibly because I'm using my phone.

Excellent work! A touch of color would enhance the piece.

An old thread for sure, but the consensus, it seems, is that the program was difficult to learn and that Inkscape and GIMP (both free) are a better option.

Please reread the original post.

In no particular order Motor brushes glazed, remove and very gently scrape the surface. The face of the brush should be dull not shiny. Brushes wornout Brush springs worn, not making good contact (If used) Extension cord wires to small for load Shop wiring tool light for load (Very rare, but I've seen it) Copper in house or shop wiring "crystalized" Power switch packed with sawdust Defective speed controller

Here's some pictures for proof of concept

The small points on this pattern worried me about getting the pattern off without breaking any of them. I used a needle point awl to lift the paper off the points, then gently removed the rest of the paper.

An ornament for a friend, pattern from the ornaments for charity files. 1/8" basswood, FD Polar #2/0 blades for the interior cuts; #1 for the outside cut.