preprius

As for machine vibration other village members have better knowledge. I would not bend any arms until others tell you otherwise. Saw speed : the previous owner might have reasons to keep it slow. Like vibration issues. But he might just prefer slower speeds like I do. blades.... metal... flying dutchman (US brand), (Sawbird , Canadian brand) Niqua mfg. aluminum cutters #7 I had good result cutting aluminum. Pegas blades I prefer. MGT good for hard wood such as purple heart, hard maple, and black walnut. But flying dutchman "Polar" series is good also. Skip blades sometimes cut better than polar. Also note wood grain direction comes into play. Olson has a series Precision ground that I used before switching to Pegas. I recently ordered blades from Garnet Hall , he is in Canada. Same manufacturer as Flying Dutchman. Also ordered Pegas from Artcrafters. Denny posts here often and is very helpful. Lots of experience. Blades should cut on downstroke. It pushes against table. Sometimes a blade gets put in upsidedown and it takes a lot of strength to hold the wood. All mfg have something called reverse blade. this means 5 or 6 teeth on the bottom point up. This to helps prevent tear out on bottom of wood. Pegas MGT (modified geometry) has these reverse. You need to look careful on how you install reverse blades. Blade Recommendation: Get assortment. everyone told me to try equivalent to the following .... skip, double skip, super skip, MGT , don't forget spiral blades. Once you decide on your goto blade you will still have some assortment for when something is not working. Fretwork: some of the best fretwork artist use spiral blades. Blade tension: Get it tight. As tight as you can without the blade slipping out. If you know notes you can do the the high "C" as a guide. The thinner the blade the proper tension is important. The tiny blades will twist easy. higher tension reduces the twist. If the blades are breaking in the middle you might have too much tension. And you could be pushing wood too hard. There is sweet spot on feedrate. This sweet spot is barely faster than what the blades feeds itself. In otherwords slow and effortless. Of course most of us push the wood faster. When precision is needed. Bowls, inlay , intarsia: keep the blade from being pushed left and right. This side pressure changes the cut angle and makes pieces not fit well. Stay in the sweet spot of feed rate. In some cases your goto blade just seems weird, wont cut to the right but only left. This I have seen when I have a different thickness of cutting as in I have not tried this thickness before. I think the blades find a resonance and just won't co-operate. so change blades with 1 step thicker. I bought a lot of lower quality 2nd tier blades. They were cutting only in 1 direction. Don't cheap out on blades. It is frustrating. Wood recommendations: The tool should be able to cut most all wood. When cutting turning blanks, 1.5"x1.5" keep the wood soft to med. I tried apple branches at 1.5". I don't recomment it. Purple heart should not go above 0.5". I just cut 0.5" purple heart and aspen stacked. It takes time. I was inlaying so precision angles are needed. Maple and black walnut is good to cut at 3/4". MGT #1 for precision. #5 is good for most other projects. On really hard woods keep the wood thin Less than 3/8" It was highly recommended to me last week. I had 1/2" already so I wanted to use it. It is like watching mooshine freeze. alchohol does not freeze. My starting point was late in 2020. I don't want to manually do what a laser cutter can do. So I like stuff thicker than 3/8". Bowls require angle cuts lasers are not doing that yet. Intarsia is beautiful. I also prefer to make funtional items but not always. Check out members galleries. @Dave Monk Monk's is inspiring. @MarieC very creative, @FrankEV brought color into portraits. @OCtoolguy functional pieces. He is a wizard at fixing scrollsaws. He also helped me get a great used hawk. The best move to keep me interested. Fighting cheap entry tool on cutting apple branches I almost stopped. @Tbow388 bowl expert. Nice country series also. Lots of others. wood carving, coin cutting, Pattern makers are a great help also. And my project gallery, the only wearable scrollsawn cowboy hat so far. Also a hollow football. This scrollsaw village helped me be less frustrated at the tools and has helped me on techniques. They have helped me every step of the way. Me. Mark Eason.

Rodney, Good doggie, catches both ducks and crickets at the same time. Nice projects and great topics. Me. Mark Eason

Welcome to the village. Be sure to ask questions and share your frustrations. Share pics also. We have some great people here many have helped Me. Me. Mark Eason

Nice useful art piece.

Very nice golfster. I would love to see it on the street or at Pepple beach during car week.

Oh nice. It use a raspberryPi .

Yellowstone series. Very nice presentation of the characters.

Nice bowls. The last one looks like a southwest bowl. Nice looking almost native american indian.

Very nice idea. Skip the scrollsaw inlay. There is 1 draw back but if I route all the way thru, then that isssue is resolved. There are 2 teams, the 2nd team uses the waveform upside down. Thank you. . .

I am thinking of making about (40) -1 inch inlay tokens. 1/2inch thick each. This a prototype. It is an inlay of aspen in purple heart. both half inch thick. The swiggles are a waveform the whole team has to know. The various shapes curves all have meaning. So I have 4 questions... 1) should I just make things thinner and skip the inlay? Just have someone else laser the wafeform. 2) Since I dont have laser what is best method of making qty 40? 3) Are team tokens worth the effort? 4) It seems a bit of waste for the round white Aspen not being used. The purple waveform is too loose for fiting in the Aspen. Is there a better method?

oh a new stand up desk?

Very cute. Runs off of leaded shavings. For unleaded.... Colored pencils should work too.

great idea sell them in packs of 3 and 5. Display them in formation.

Looks pretty. The white paint strips on engine cowling really help show the engine area. Not sure about a black cockpit cover. But again I like it. Just for fun, if you wanted to above and beyond you can inlay some white stars on wings. But it adds alot more time and not much return for the effort.

yep.

Dave's love bus could be family portrait frame. Put the kids in the back.

So I also want to nominate pattern makers. @alexfox My cutting / paint does not do his pattern justice

I am jealous. You can fret, carve, mix woods, intarsia, layer, "muttle", and then you can paint. With all those skills and techniques you can make it even look beuatiful. Me. Mark Eason

I had to look close at the top drawer, a no, not drawer. Nice blend of front . Wow that flower top is beautiful. Me. Mark Eason

I had to re-read some of these posts. . . additive or addictive. . . BOTH is ok also.

They all look pretty good to Me. The middle one looks like a license plate frame. It might sell pretty good.

Nicely done. I have not explored spoons yet. You make it look too nice not to try for myself. I might do a bowl and a spoon might be good for dry stuff like sugar or small candy. Maybe the peppers for pizza.

ooo pretty. nice method of fretwork and a 1.5" thick wood. Carving really adds to the piece.

i need a longer blade and additional pattern from the top to cut off the back pack, that is the wood between his elbows.

Boy those are cute. . I would be tempted to buy pre-made wheels. But a hole saw might help in production. Stack cut using a hole saw. With slight changes to the contour cuts they could be hummers and jeeps. Hmm. I might be talking myself into this. Good job. And thanks for sharing. Me. Mark Eason