preprius

Sure. Tilt your cut at 45 deg. Drill a hole at 45 deg, cut a circle. A very tight circle, like 1/4" . My machine I like tilt the table left side down. Cut 1/4" circle turning the wood clockwise. Dont use any blade that has reverse teeth. And try very soft wood at first. The blade will try to push the wood off the table so you need to hold the wood. Go as slow as possible. Keep the blade from bending. As you get 2 or 3 cuts you can move to harder wood and even move to reverse blades. 30 deg will be easier than 45 deg. The bottom circle will be huge. Thinner material will be much easier. My pic shows 1.5" thick using a 1/8" circle. I had to calculate the angle to fit in the 1.5" area. This experiment was trying to make a hollow cone, a bell.

In fact there is a ring that he made that shows perfect hexagon light panels 5 panels. He showed the ring during his lunch presentations. He allowed GIA to photo it. They said is is the only opal specimen that showed crystaline structure. He said he will donate it to smithsonian when he dies. It did not make it to Smithsonian. It is in the LA Historic museum. I considered a this to be a personal message but the topic might be good for other readers. I have been thinking how I can mount my specimens in wood. I only have 2 small ones. It seems I also forgot to tell you your work is really nice. Very good ideas and execution.

I love airplanes. The way you present them in threes is great idea. I might suggest to change out the prop cones, with actual cones. At first glance I thought the exhaust pipes were just painted. You did great by having them stick out. We have 3 or 4 p51s at my nearby airport. The group refurbishes them and flys them.

opal is my favorite gemstone. There was a "Barnett" opal mine in mojave desert that I used to go to. Attached is a museum piece.

so nice. It seems like I am there.

correction, polar blades are equivalent to skip. So when polar for some reason don't cut, change to something else. sometimes switching to a smaller blade allows it to cut. Example... I was cutting hard wood with P5, for 20 min. I only cut maybe 1 inch. So I switched to P1 and made much better progress. I don't associate heavy vibration with blade type. I have only used 2 types of machines. The hawk machine changes power and noise changes when hard grain is encountered. It tries to keep the strokes per min from changing.

As for machine vibration other village members have better knowledge. I would not bend any arms until others tell you otherwise. Saw speed : the previous owner might have reasons to keep it slow. Like vibration issues. But he might just prefer slower speeds like I do. blades.... metal... flying dutchman (US brand), (Sawbird , Canadian brand) Niqua mfg. aluminum cutters #7 I had good result cutting aluminum. Pegas blades I prefer. MGT good for hard wood such as purple heart, hard maple, and black walnut. But flying dutchman "Polar" series is good also. Skip blades sometimes cut better than polar. Also note wood grain direction comes into play. Olson has a series Precision ground that I used before switching to Pegas. I recently ordered blades from Garnet Hall , he is in Canada. Same manufacturer as Flying Dutchman. Also ordered Pegas from Artcrafters. Denny posts here often and is very helpful. Lots of experience. Blades should cut on downstroke. It pushes against table. Sometimes a blade gets put in upsidedown and it takes a lot of strength to hold the wood. All mfg have something called reverse blade. this means 5 or 6 teeth on the bottom point up. This to helps prevent tear out on bottom of wood. Pegas MGT (modified geometry) has these reverse. You need to look careful on how you install reverse blades. Blade Recommendation: Get assortment. everyone told me to try equivalent to the following .... skip, double skip, super skip, MGT , don't forget spiral blades. Once you decide on your goto blade you will still have some assortment for when something is not working. Fretwork: some of the best fretwork artist use spiral blades. Blade tension: Get it tight. As tight as you can without the blade slipping out. If you know notes you can do the the high "C" as a guide. The thinner the blade the proper tension is important. The tiny blades will twist easy. higher tension reduces the twist. If the blades are breaking in the middle you might have too much tension. And you could be pushing wood too hard. There is sweet spot on feedrate. This sweet spot is barely faster than what the blades feeds itself. In otherwords slow and effortless. Of course most of us push the wood faster. When precision is needed. Bowls, inlay , intarsia: keep the blade from being pushed left and right. This side pressure changes the cut angle and makes pieces not fit well. Stay in the sweet spot of feed rate. In some cases your goto blade just seems weird, wont cut to the right but only left. This I have seen when I have a different thickness of cutting as in I have not tried this thickness before. I think the blades find a resonance and just won't co-operate. so change blades with 1 step thicker. I bought a lot of lower quality 2nd tier blades. They were cutting only in 1 direction. Don't cheap out on blades. It is frustrating. Wood recommendations: The tool should be able to cut most all wood. When cutting turning blanks, 1.5"x1.5" keep the wood soft to med. I tried apple branches at 1.5". I don't recomment it. Purple heart should not go above 0.5". I just cut 0.5" purple heart and aspen stacked. It takes time. I was inlaying so precision angles are needed. Maple and black walnut is good to cut at 3/4". MGT #1 for precision. #5 is good for most other projects. On really hard woods keep the wood thin Less than 3/8" It was highly recommended to me last week. I had 1/2" already so I wanted to use it. It is like watching mooshine freeze. alchohol does not freeze. My starting point was late in 2020. I don't want to manually do what a laser cutter can do. So I like stuff thicker than 3/8". Bowls require angle cuts lasers are not doing that yet. Intarsia is beautiful. I also prefer to make funtional items but not always. Check out members galleries. @Dave Monk Monk's is inspiring. @MarieC very creative, @FrankEV brought color into portraits. @OCtoolguy functional pieces. He is a wizard at fixing scrollsaws. He also helped me get a great used hawk. The best move to keep me interested. Fighting cheap entry tool on cutting apple branches I almost stopped. @Tbow388 bowl expert. Nice country series also. Lots of others. wood carving, coin cutting, Pattern makers are a great help also. And my project gallery, the only wearable scrollsawn cowboy hat so far. Also a hollow football. This scrollsaw village helped me be less frustrated at the tools and has helped me on techniques. They have helped me every step of the way. Me. Mark Eason.

Rodney, Good doggie, catches both ducks and crickets at the same time. Nice projects and great topics. Me. Mark Eason

Welcome to the village. Be sure to ask questions and share your frustrations. Share pics also. We have some great people here many have helped Me. Me. Mark Eason

Nice useful art piece.

Very nice golfster. I would love to see it on the street or at Pepple beach during car week.

Oh nice. It use a raspberryPi .

Yellowstone series. Very nice presentation of the characters.

Nice bowls. The last one looks like a southwest bowl. Nice looking almost native american indian.

Very nice idea. Skip the scrollsaw inlay. There is 1 draw back but if I route all the way thru, then that isssue is resolved. There are 2 teams, the 2nd team uses the waveform upside down. Thank you. . .

I am thinking of making about (40) -1 inch inlay tokens. 1/2inch thick each. This a prototype. It is an inlay of aspen in purple heart. both half inch thick. The swiggles are a waveform the whole team has to know. The various shapes curves all have meaning. So I have 4 questions... 1) should I just make things thinner and skip the inlay? Just have someone else laser the wafeform. 2) Since I dont have laser what is best method of making qty 40? 3) Are team tokens worth the effort? 4) It seems a bit of waste for the round white Aspen not being used. The purple waveform is too loose for fiting in the Aspen. Is there a better method?

oh a new stand up desk?

Very cute. Runs off of leaded shavings. For unleaded.... Colored pencils should work too.

great idea sell them in packs of 3 and 5. Display them in formation.

Looks pretty. The white paint strips on engine cowling really help show the engine area. Not sure about a black cockpit cover. But again I like it. Just for fun, if you wanted to above and beyond you can inlay some white stars on wings. But it adds alot more time and not much return for the effort.

yep.

Dave's love bus could be family portrait frame. Put the kids in the back.

So I also want to nominate pattern makers. @alexfox My cutting / paint does not do his pattern justice

I am jealous. You can fret, carve, mix woods, intarsia, layer, "muttle", and then you can paint. With all those skills and techniques you can make it even look beuatiful. Me. Mark Eason

I had to look close at the top drawer, a no, not drawer. Nice blend of front . Wow that flower top is beautiful. Me. Mark Eason