dgman

Some awesome projects Pete! Very nice work!

Great looking projects Fred. The guitar picks are in my que.

Just remember Ralph, just because you’re not scrolling doesn’t mean you stop coming here. You are a family member and we need to hear from you regularly!

It’s a beautiful piece!

Beautiful piece Charlie! I have had patterns for quilt blocks like that For years, but haven’t cut them yet. Someday!

That is an excellent looking project Bill! Forgive my ignorance, but what is the blue and white flag?

All woods absorb and release moisture as the humidity in your shop raises and lowers.the trick is to keep equal moisture all around the board. When you bring a board into your shop, place it so you get equal air movement around the board. The proper way to store new wood is to stack and sticker. That is stacking the boards with narrow, thin sticks in between the board to keep air circulating around the board untill the boardS acclimate To your shop environment. If it just a board or two, lean them against a wall or your bench so there is equal air circulation. The biggest mistake folks do is laying the board flat on a workbench. The top of the board will absorb moisture and the bottom won’t, guaranteeing the board will warp. A good Online source for scroll ready wood is Ochooch hardwoods. But if you order from them or any source, you have to do ad above.

I have never reused a pattern. Once it’s off, it goes in the trash.

What ever works for you is good as long as it is a topcoat.

Very nice work Brenda! One thing about portraits is if you go off the line it doesn’t matter, most of the cuts are just abstract shapes.

Very nice work Denny! Question, why apply lacquer over shellac? Or why have shellac under the lacquer?

Beautiful work Frank!

I definitely recommend a topcoat after the oil is dry. I like spray can lacquer. Others use polyurethane or shellac . A topcoat is necessary to protect the wood. Oils from hands will eventually penetrate the wood, and so will dust and dirt. It will soon become hard to keep clean.

Beautiful!

Think about it, if you have to go to the drugstore for a wood finish, there is something wrong there!

Great work Todd! Those are in my que.

Looking forward to seeing your new work Dan. As far as wasting time, it’s well over 110° here, and probably hotter in my shop. I hate wasting shop time but it’s too hot for me!

That is an amazing piece of work Frank! To think it was done with a fret saw! I don’t remember his name or screen name, but, there used to be a member here on the Village who does amazing work with just a handheld fret saw.

Some stores sell a product that is more environmentally friendly. It’s fine for cleaning paint brushes and accessories after using oil based finishing products like Polly Or lacquer. It’s is milky and not suitable for mixing with oil based finishes. Here in California, we couldn’t buy regular mineral spirits for awhile. In the County I live in (Ventura Co.), I can now find it at any hardware store. Ray @octoolguy say he can’t find it where he lives (Orange Co.). Just make sure it doesn’t say “green” On the label. If you can’t find regular mineral spirits, you can order it from Amazon.

Excellent cutting Dan!

Great looking projects Frank!

It is never recommended to use products that are not designed as a finish to be used as a finish. Mineral oil is not designed as a finish. It does nothing to seal and protect the wood. And as mentioned, mineral oil never fully dries. It might be appropriate for cutting boards and utensils, but that’s it. Any product designed as a finish will become food and child safe once fully cured, not necessarily dry, but cured. In my opinion, any project that will be handled must have a topcoat. Wood will soak in fingerprints and skin oils and dust and dirt if not topcoated. Appropriate topcoats include Lacquer, shellac and Polly. Other products some folks use as a finish, but are not designed as a finish are orange oil and lemon oil. These products are designed as cleaners and polish’s. For me, using an oil is used to bring out the natural color and grain of the wood. Since I use mostly hardwoods, using an oil greatly enhances the beauty of woods like Walnut, Cherry, Oaks and even Maple, but most hardwoods are enhanced. My procedure is as follows. I soak all my scroll saw projects in a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. The oil brings out the natural color and grain of the wood, and the mineral spirits thins out the oil, allowing it to flow easily around the project, and acts as a drier. I use an on old metal baking pan for this. I let it soak for a few minutes. Then, I remove the project and wipe off the excess oil with blue shop towels. I set them on baking cooling racks to dry. After the oil dries, usually in 24-36 hours, I apply Deft semi gloss spray lacquer. Usually two or three coats. The lacquer dries fast. Depending on humidity, I can apply two or three coats in about an hour. After the lacquer is dry, if it has dust nubs, I’ll rub out the finish with a folded piece of brown paper bag. It’s like using 2400 grit sand paper. I store the oil mix in an old glass mason jar.

I can see it now, it does have a motor. It also has an optional foot pedal to raise the top arm for easy top feeding.

That saw was made by Summerville Designs in Canada, who also designed and built the DeWALT type 1. If it is in good working order, it might be worth the $125. Keep in mind, it had been out of production for about twenty years, so there are no replacement parts available. I can’t tell by the picture, but does it have a motor? If it had a motor it might be worth it. If not, you have to factor that.