Jim McDonald

I have used a nail board for painting, but never thought of it for gluing. But, I don't do a lot of that type of gluing.

I just yesterday started a round of wood to wood and wood to metal projects with E6000. Seems to a great job, but is a lot like some of the tube style glues from the past--it can be runny. (I'm looking at you, ghost of DuPont Duro).

This may be the book you are looking for:

Absolutely great work on the pattern and the execution of the total design. HUGE pat on the back!

There are times I take the challenges when I get tired of the repetition of some of the "favorites" I seem to do in infinity.

I have been on the magazine board for about 15 years and have watched it trickle to a shell of its former glory. (There might be 10 or so active posters). I lived through the software debacle and actually was a beta tester for the current format which I have never warmed up to. As for folks monitoring the site, there used to be three or four staffers who were very involved in the board. I found The Village during the software conversion and have been a member for a few years. Since I don't do FB, the two forums are my outlets. I do follow both on Instagram. As for Steve's board, it was a grand idea that I tried for about a month. I think I even tried the Cafe.

The table on that Dewalt will rust from the moisture in your hands and arms touching the table. Better get some protection on that cast iron.

I had the same question about my Pegas and was told as long as there are no bad scratches, no wax needed. Good because I'm out of Johnson's.

I think you're dialed in pretty good on the new saw. Congrats

I thought I heard Johnson quit making their paste wax. Would be a horrible shame.

Great saw and even though some people don't like them, I hope you got either the stock light or some type of aftermarket light. The lights make a difference seeing the black blades against the pattern.

Yes, removing the side panel made blade changes much faster and efficient.

I had one for a while. It was not a bad saw, but it had issues. #1 was needing a 3mm hex for blade changes. I upgraded to a DW788 and now drive a Pegas 21". Don't remember what I did with the CW40.

Commissioned for the birthday of a friend who has taught at the same university for 40+ years. It is the formal logo of the university and is only the fourth I have cut. This one is approximately 7.5 x 9 inches of 3/4" cherry from Ocooch. Base is two pieces of 3/4" buckeye from another project. Cut this with Pegas #3MGT blades and finished with satin lacquer. As a bonus, I glued the final blade to the bottom of the base.

Remembering that different manufacturers have slightly different numbering for their blades in both teeth and thickness, we will dive into this. After a few thousand inches of following the lines, one develops a feel for their prowess cutting. Some like blades super tight (guilty) while others will be just a notch lighter. Some like the tiniest blades (2/0) out there for everything under a certain thickness. For me, anything under 1/8", I gravitate to a #1 blade. Usually pick #3 up to about 1/2" or so, but I just finished a 3/4" cherry piece with some Pegas #3MGT. I am comfortable with that blade and that is my preferred sawdust generator. But, I still switch from time to time not only size but brands, depending on what I THINK might work better. So, I really haven't given you an answer other than to develop your own knowledge base from experimentation. There is no database of blade/material/feed vs blade. Everyone has a general idea what they grab first, but put 10 of us around a table and you will get 15 opinions. Just make some dust and memories.

Bird of Paradise is a great script font. You can find it at dafont.com. BTW, you're going to love your new yeller saw.

A few things to consider: White LED bulbs come in various colors ranging from reddish golden to a bright white resembling sunlight. It's called color temperature. The higher the number, the closer to sunlight (around 5500° K) Also, some LEDs are prone to strobing, especially the cheaper ones. This is largely due to voltage being dropped to the 5 to 12 volts the LED needs and also the cycling of AC power. The strobing is usually not visible to the naked eye as your visual center compensates, but it will give you eye strain.

Needed to get some stock for a couple of quick commissions and to finish a couple others. Pictured below are some of the stuff I got today from Ocooch Hardwoods: A beautiful piece of 8 x 3/4 cherry and a couple of book matched butternut pieces. Didn't ask for or need book matched pieces, but they sure did make my eyes pop as I opened the box.

..but I have thought of removing each pattern and putting them in a three-ring binder. I have done that in the past and it IS a lot of work. I haven't done in a couple of years, so I have a lot to catch up on. I use sheet protectors for the patterns and some magazine holders I got from Amazon.

Now that we are retired, we are in the mode of reduce and recycle. It is a daunting process. My tip for the younger folks, don't put off getting rid of "stuff". It grows in geometric leaps.

I cut a lot of Steve's patterns and can truthfully say that I have learned volumes from reading his posts, watching his YouTube and cutting his patterns. He has been a great supporter of this hobby and I appreciate all that he HAS done and will do for us. Here are a couple of recent cuts from older, timeless postings:

Those would make great segmentation patterns.

Absolutely beautiful work. No way I could pick a favorite from that grouping.

My sister has one for the ornaments I have made through the years. I have seen pictures of it.

Good to see you back online. I pulled the plug at 65 due to heart attack and the nature of the work. Haven't looked back.