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John B

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Everything posted by John B

  1. John B
    Nice cutting on a beautiful piece of timber. Heldas does some great patterns
  2. John B
    Nice cutting Kris. I have stayed away from cutting cheetahs, for the obvious reasons
  3. John B
    Beautiful work. I am sure your friend will be impressed.
  4. John B
    Very nice Charlie. Great decorations for a young blokes room. I have made hundreds of these about 150mm (6") high.
  5. John B
    Some nice pieces Frank The Lion is my favourite, reversing the "Normal" procedure of a dark back ground makes it almost glow. The Eyes also add a hint of mystique.
  6. John B
    Very nice Rolf. I have a dozen of each of these type of hinges, circular and rectangle. Have had them in a box for years, just never got around to using them.
  7. John B
    Another thing to consider when cutting inlays is the direction in which you cut. Because of the angle of the cut, a very sharp (pointed) turn can try and force the blade to cut across itself. I don't think I am explaining this very well, but if you set the blade at an angle and try and cut a sharp point in one direction, then the other, you will see what I mean.
  8. John B
    I just cut a keyhole shape into the edge of a piece of timber the same thickness that I'm going to use and adjust a few times until it wedges where I want it to.
  9. John B
    Excellent work. They look like lace doilies.
  10. John B
    No I haven't Dick. The War Office doesn't like "Dust Collectors" I would probably agree with you about the clock, as they don't tend to serve any purpose these days with every appliance and electronic item having a clock. I do think it is interesting how the pendulum is a gondolier, (that's what it looks like anyhow )
  11. John B
    That would be the PVA. It is typically stronger than the timber.
  12. John B
    That's a real bugger Ray. My 1st option for recovery of the piece, is to stain it all to match the darker timber. Not as pretty but you will still have a nice item. As for taking it apart! What type of Weldwood did you use. The contact cement, you may be able to release the pieces by soaking in Turps, or thinner. If it is the epoxy or PVA I would say you are buggered. You would have to decide that the project is a stuffed and you can't stuff it up any more then it already is, so just do your best to gently pry of the top and bottom. With a little luck you will have a number of reusable layers and with a lot you will be able reuse them all. Good Luck
  13. John B
    They look really neat, I'm sure they will be enjoyed and loved. I can just imaging my mother going crook because they may pull a stitch
  14. John B
    @OCtoolguy Ray, many years ago we used to tell what a finished piece would like, eg the grain, by spitting on it not very hygienic so now I just rub a little water on with my finger. The only reason I could see for using the Alcohol (Metho) is that it would dry quicker. No need to drench the item. As for it raising the grain, it is minimal and as I am sure you have sanded the piece, another 10 seconds to cut it back isn't going to be a problem. As for colour run, I have seen that with Jarrah and Pine when the joint area has been flooded with finish. Can't wait to see the finished product.
  15. John B
    Absolutely bloody marvellous Dave. A true beauty and piece of art. Finishing is flawless mate.
  16. John B
    Here's a nice simple one https://cherrytreetoys.com/venice-bridge-scroll-saw-clock-plan/
  17. John B
    I never use the premixed stuff. I always purchase the flakes and mix my own with Metho. I placed clear in brackets, because I have seen it labelled that way, but it is white shellac. Clear Poly also has an amber hue. unless you use water based. It is what it is.
  18. John B
    Bob, you can get normal Shellac (orange) of White Shellac (Clear) The white has undergone a process to remove a lot of the wax and bleached for use on blond timbers etc.
  19. John B
    I use 3mm MDF, as it paints nicely and is a reasonable price. Like all timbers you have to sand it first with about 360g. I spray 2 coats of black /colour cutting back between with 220 - 360g.
  20. John B
    Top job Charlie.
  21. John B
    I would put some 45% fillets from the foot to each side of the legs to give it more rigidity. and maybe even a cross brace from front to back. Over engineered, but as solid as a rock
  22. John B
    Glad you got it sorted. My thoughts exactly regarding a variable speed jointer. About as useful as a hip pocket in a singlet
  23. John B
    I had a look online and it seems there are a couple of suppliers of "Baltic" Birch in the Eastern States however their price is $41.00 per sq metre, and that's before it is shipped a few thousand K's. When I 1st started scrolling it was not available at all here, seems like things are going full circle
  24. John B
    I started with a very similar type gun called "Little Beaver". I've had 2 of them, the 1st I bought about 45 years ago and I think the 2nd is still in the shed somewhere? I found them pretty noisy, but things do improve with time, well mostly When looking for a pic, I found an old ad My 1st was blue.
  25. John B
    I have never used Baltic Birch as it is not available where I live and probably not available in Australia. I use Hoop Pine, Locally produced and AA grade, no viods with a nice thick facer veneers which makes sanding easy and low risk. I would agree with @spirithorse100% Luan is absolutely crap, only reasonable use is cabinet backs. Perhaps the thicker sizes for work bench tops.
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