Wichman

Flush

8" diameter

A Charles Hand design. 1/4" elm, mostly FD Polar #1 blades for the internal cuts ( I should have changed to a #3 for the long sweeping cuts ), #3 Polar for the outside. This one's for my kitchen

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho . That's the style of saw I started with.

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho .

Mark, just spit balling here. What do you use to drill your pilot holes? If you use Seycos scroller drill, the you could think about the following concept: Cut the bands out for the hat. Attach the pattern to the inside surface. Using the scroller drill, drill the pilot holes. Position the band on the scroll saw so that the top of the band is above the top scroll saw arm. Using small spiral blades, cut out the pattern. I've been thinking about this issue for awhile, but health issues are keeping me from it loop

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

https://www.thewinfieldcollection.com/products/all-50-us-state-ornaments-project-patterns I just got the Idaho ornament, but it looks like only the Kentucky ornament is available as a single; for Tennessee you'd need to get the 50 states bundle.

I added a heart to the Idaho ornament pattern that I have (just above the "o"), special for a customer. It is more popular than the original:

I like it. My only suggestion is to replace the star with a small heart. Customers could send them to loved ones out of state.

I don't have any pictures of the process. If I do another I'll get my son to help take pictures. The process takes two hands and a lot of focus. I used 20 oz cups from a local coffee shop. I cut the bottoms off several cups to allow better airflow to speed the drying. The dragon and tail were cut at an angle to the grain so that the bias would match the downward angle of the spiral. For a cup holder design it starts with the dragons head at the top of the cup. For the dragon to sit on top of a tree, start with the head at the bottom of the cup. After soaking the dragon, hold the body of the dragon 1/2" below the rim. Hold the dragon body at the base of the tail. Next gently bend the tail around the cup, working slowly and allowing the wood fibers a few seconds to relax before moving to the next section, continue until you reach the end of the tail. While continuing to hold the dragon body take another cup and place on top of the dragon, with a slight twisting motion, with the direction on the bend fit the second cup on top of the first cup, when the cups get close to each other carefully tuck the small pieces in the body under the top cup, when the two cups are tight together tuck the end of the tail in between the two cups. Allow to dry 2 to 3 days.

I did a Google search for anyone else doing something like this, the only result that was close was one of my pictures

This was to get you in the ballpark. If you scroll down there are more choices in the type of wood. There may be more panel sizes as well.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Forest-Products-1-4-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-PureBond-Maple-Plywood-Project-Panel-Free-Custom-Cut-Available-1789/203552993?MERCH=REC-_-fbr-_-202093790-_-2-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a

Some notes about removing tape from patterns. Use a sharp pointed scratch awl to lift an edge up, then use tweezers or small needle point pliers to pull on the pattern/tape/shelf liner. Pull towards the center, if there are multiple points to lift, work on each appendige separately, stop at a common area until all appendiges have been lifted. Work from the most fragile to the tougher areas. Use a very sharp angle to pull across fragile areas about an inch above the piece of possible, minimize the lift stress on the piece. When I lifted the pattern with shelf liner from the dragon; I started with the tail, pulling the pattern to the body, then lifting the fingers and toes, then the wings from the bottom upwards, and finally peeling the pattern off the body. The tail is 14" long as cut and 1/8" wide at the thinnest. I cut 5 of these and didn't break any removing the pattern. This is my needle point awl, I got it in a knife set from HF.

Basswood

The tails didn't break while cutting them, they broke while bending. The short one broke while I was sanding I used paper coffee cups as the bending form and used another cup to hold the dragon, gently twisting with the curl, in place while it dried. I was able to stack 4 at a time to dry.

I've got five of these cut and only one is really useable. It's okay as this was a test of my limits and the materials limitations. All the tails broke at 11" (out of 14") , so I think that's the limit, for now. Many of the smaller details broke, so I'll limit myself to closed edge patterns for now. I still like the concept, now to adjust some patterns

Just finished cutting these. I probably won't put any finish on them, the side cuts just don't have enough of a kerf to prevent the finish from glueing them shut. The patterns are from Wildwood designs. The designer is not listed on the pattern. 1/16" Basswood, FD Polar #2/0 blades for all cuts. I couldn't remember what direction the grain should run, so the first two I cut were 90° to each other and one snapped as soon as I got it off the saw. I cut the rest with the grain running lengthwise. I kept all the fallout that was recognizeable.

Also there's a large wall hanging pattern on Steve Good's site; search for "physical" in the pattern section

Who is checking? You are, or at least your conscience. Hopefully.

Too bad it's Sue May ( I don't like the conditions of use; 1 pattern = 10 items, 2nd purchased pattern = 10 additional items, if it's a hot seller, or you have lots of family, buy a commercial license, no details of what that would cost. And it's poisoned the well of pattern companies, The Winfield Collection has changed to the same concept. )

So, I tried the garment bag. It worked well, no ornaments came loose after riding around in the truck for a couple of days. The style of garment bag that I used ( side zipper that came about 3/4 of the way up the side of the bag ), was not the style to use, I need to try one with the zipper that goes to the top of the side, or up the middle of the front. Another change was to drill 3/32" holes in the hanger instead of notching the top. When I loaded the hangers in the bag I placed T-shirts in-between each hanger with ornaments. I also use shawls to display shawl pins, so those could be used for padding as well.

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

That's Willie nice