Wichman

Welcome to the Village from SE Idaho

I have cut these heart boxes out of purple heart using a FD #1 Polar blade. I use the Polar blade because of the tightness of the curves and the size of kerf for the sliding dovetail in the top. I lost the heart shaped pin in the box and had to cut another to fit, these boxes start out life as a 1 1/2" cube of wood. Also, I used Varathane brand, "Black Cherry" stain on the first heart box shown, a very, very good match for color.

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

Thanks for coming back and letting us know what the issue was, it may help the next time. Please excuse some of the more gruff members here, they mean well but . . . Please do introduce yourself in the new members section. I would like to know more of what you do.

For a project that is 15" wide, you're pretty much limited to plywood, any solid wood that wide will be subject to warping and unless you take special protections it could be a real disaster. Even with plywood you will have to do glue ups using thick, non warped pieces to support the project during the glue curing phase to keep it flat. When I've done glue ups of wide patterns in solid wood I have reversed the warp directions so the they have to fight against each other to warp. I put the warping so that the center is together and the sides are apart, easier to get the warping under control, it's harder to clamp the center of a warped panel than the edges. I had to use this technique on the fishing rod rack. 12" diameter, 5/16 thick on both pieces of wood.

How did you keep the piece from warping while the glue cured? I'm asking because of another thread. Thanks.

To add to JT's post; is the circuit breaker an Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter ( AFCI ) ? if so the arc from the motor can trip it.

Nice job!

Outstanding work! Very nicely done.

Excellent Idea. Guess I'll need to make one for myself for when the kids have to take me in.

When I visit Steve's website there is not an online option, it is possible to have various flavors for different OS's and even browsers ( my phine shows a different site until I select "view web version" ), sorry that I can't help you, maybe next time.

As far as I know the keychain maker is a downloadable application that you run on your local device. Steve's programs only run on Windows. I just tried a test run on my Windows 11 machine and everything worked. To save a file for later use or adjustment I use the following : After opening the program and setting everything up, then click on the printer icon > in the print dialogue box click on the arrow of printer name > select "Microsoft print to .pdf" > click on "ok" > in the save dialogue box, choose your folder and file name, then click "save".

I found this on the Acrylite web site: Semi-finished polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) products from POLYVANTIS are sold on the European, Asian, African and Australian continents under the registered trademark PLEXIGLAS®, in the Americas under the registered trademark ACRYLITE®, both owned by Röhm GmbH, Darmstadt, or its affiliates.

I went to Google > "shrimp" > then selected - images - then selected - drawing - On the fourth row down I found a good basis for a pattern from "freepik". You could print the image in light black and use a red pen/pencil to show where you want to cut, or go whole hog and massage the image with Inkscape into a pattern.

From the top row of options: file > open =dialogue box. In the dialogue box just below file name box is another box labeled files of type, click on the down arrow on the rh side of the box, scroll up one space and select " All Files". The open file dialogue box will now show every file in every folder that you select. It can get overwhelming so Inkscape allow you to choose how to filter the files shown by type.

IMHO 48 hrs is not long enoungh for the BLO/MS mixture to Cure, long enough to dry yes, but it takes longer for the BLO to finish Curing. Once the BLO has cured, if the piece is under glass, then a varnish is not necessary. Just for curiosities sake, how are you sealing the back of the frame? Tape or paper back or ???

A couple of points here: Tune your table saw. Use your operators manual and online videos to get your saw as perfectly aligned as possible, allow your CDO ( compulsive disorder, obsessive; that way the letters are in alphabetical order, As They Should Be ) to take over and get every adjustment perfect. Do not use any type of "thin body" blade, they will warp under stress and cause misalignment of your pieces. You are making your own molding, correct? What does your end grain look like, is the wood quarter sawn or not? Are you maintaining the same orientation on all the pieces as they are milled? It appears that your molding is "weighted" to the rabbit side of the molding, this can cause the molding to warp slightly and pull the angle out of alignment, you may need to make a micro adjustment to compensate. I worked at a production shop making frames and producing wall art for 26 years, a smaller shop for about a year, a smaller still shop for another year and have made my own moldings with a table saw and a molding head cutter. The points I have brought up are things I have had to deal with from sad personal experience. At the shop where I worked for 26 years, at one time, had two moldings, both oak, one 2 1/2" wide, the other 3 1/2" wide, one was weighted at the rabbit, the other at the outside edge. To get tight corners I would have to adjust the angle of the double chop saw, both sides, the width of an extra fine sharpie ( .5mm ). When I proved to the boss ( owner ) that it was the only sure way to get tight corners on all sizes of frames ( 8 x 10 through 28 x 40 ) he contacted the molding supplier and had them make a 3 1/2" molding that was weighted at the rabbit, like the rest of the moldings that we used, end of problem and constant adjustment of the machine.

In addition to Don's advise. A simple check: Open Inscape select "save as" when the dialogue box opens look to see what folder is open and whether or not your lost files are there.

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

Denny, What is the product # of your ATG tape? I used ATG tape every day for more than 26 years in an Art Framing business. We found out, quite by accident, that 3M make at least three versions of the tape. They can be described as; light duty (barely stickes, great for repositioning), medium duty ( this is what we used the most), and Heavy duty ( OMG, that's not where I wanted it ) we were accidently sent some HD and it was a PIA.

Please to this 3M site and dl the "3M Industrial adhesives and tapes" brochure. The brochure has a number of tables and charts to help you pick the right adhesive for the job you want it to do. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40069567/

I use the Gerson ( Harbor freight ) mask. I bought the "disposable" mask ( the filter are fixed on the mask, but the tabs can be broken and replaceable filters can then be attached, all the proper lugs are there, so it's not just a jury-rigged thing ). I use VOC filters with a P95 prefilter, I change the prefilter when I can see a color change or if I can see dust on the shroud that keeps the prefilter in place; I change the VOC filter if it becomes difficult to pull air through or if I can feel a change in the filter ( sinus or allergic reaction ). If you want to disinfect the inside of the mask, use either an alcohol wipe or a dust free cloth with alcohol on it ( my local Family Dollar store has 91% alcohol ); that what we used on our gas masks in the military.

Thank him for his service, from a fellow Vet.

My suggestion starts with; get approval first. Then, build out of metal, a small "two post gable" of an appropriate size. The function of the gable is to keep the sun, and it's UV rays, off the project hung beneath. You may need to do some light research on the overall size and the angle of the gable to keep the most sun off the project beneath. you could make mock ups out of cardboard to test the size and angles before you built the final item. And again, get approval first. Good Luck

I like these, great idea.