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TAIrving

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Everything posted by TAIrving

  1. TAIrving
    In the Houston area, in addition to the low-end saws, I see one Hegner (overpriced) and one Hawk (very old) plus the PSWoods saw I bought and cleaned up and listed. There is one interesting saw, CUTAWL K9A. I can only guess at the vintage of this one. Vintage CUTAWL K9A PRECISION JIG/SCROLL SAW - antiques - by owner - collectibles sale - craigslist.
  2. TAIrving
    Thank you Wichita @Wichman. And a belated Happy Birthday!
  3. TAIrving
    I cannot find that pattern on her website.
  4. TAIrving
    Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for this? Thanks in advance.
  5. TAIrving
    Wow @Dennis51, that is spectacular! How long did it take you to do that? What are the dimensions? What woods did you use? I am trying to get started with intarsia, my first project is sitting in the shop at the rough sanded stage. I have great thoughts about getting to the point where I can do something that advanced.
  6. TAIrving
    As @rjweb said, it is indeed hot here in Texas. It quit raining a few weeks ago and no more is likely until and unless we get a tropical storm out of the gulf. I am recovering from my cataract surgery, both eyes, and have had to stay out of the shop to avoid the risk of getting sawdust in my eyes. Another week or so and I will be ready to resume woodworking activities. Now if I can pick up the thread of what I was working on....
  7. TAIrving
    Green wood will dry unevenly, from the edges first, and it shrinks as it dries. The cracks, fissures and warping are due to the uneven shrinking. Maybe they disappeared when the wood finished drying throughout. Hopefully, some more experienced woodworkers can chime in on this. Nice cutting by the way.
  8. TAIrving
    As you said Kevin @kmmcrafts, plane first then cut to size. Any tear out on the edges is in the part that will be cut off and discarded. Also, as others have said, make very light passes with the planer. Works for me. You probably will want to sand it to get the final surface.
  9. TAIrving
    This is an excellent (in my opinion) video by Stumpy Nubbs on protection from sawdust. The link was included Steve Good's blog today.
  10. TAIrving
    Kevin, I have posted a few projects I have done using epoxy. But what you are asking is a very different use of epoxy and my experience does not apply. BTW, what kind of wood is that? It is a beautiful slab. Thurman
  11. TAIrving
    According to The Wood Database, IPE and Tigerwood (aka Goncavo Alves) have a lot of similarities. Both are hard, dense woods, tend to dull cutters and are hard to glue. And you probably should wear protection (mask, long sleeves, ...) when working them.
  12. TAIrving
    I am not allowed to operate power machinery after that type of therapy.
  13. TAIrving
    Nice looking shop Charlie. I see you have been busy with the scroll saw!
  14. TAIrving
    Very cool Frank! And quite striking in those frames! I did the search on "red lip ladies in hats line drawings" and found endless line drawings which are almost scroll ready. Likewise for "RED LIP LADIES and RED WINE line drawings".
  15. TAIrving
    The real requirement is to ensure that none of the layers move while cutting - not even a little bit. Don't ask me how I know this. I have used all the techniques mentioned except the ones about double layer tape and screws in the waste area. I am currently working on a 2-layer stack using wood glue in the waste area - just be very careful not to get any in the pattern area. (I don't think I will do it this way again.) I would be concerned about using blue painter's tape for a stack of 3 or more as the stack could shift. Think of cutting a pattern part way, then lifting and moving the pattern and finishing the cut. That is effectively what happens to the lower layers when the stack shifts.
  16. TAIrving
    Very nice Barb! I suspect that the designer would prefer that you use different woods, that is taking artistic license.
  17. TAIrving
    What is the trick to doing that?
  18. TAIrving
    Perhaps you could get together with others of your scroll saw community and place a one-time order for blades with one of the western distributors. You could select the blades and quantities you want and each of you get a supply. We pay approximately $3US per dozen in quantity. I will let you do the numbers on what it would cost you after fees and duties. But you would have the blades you want.
  19. TAIrving
    I prefer to use my drill press as it is convenient and ensures that the holes are vertical. It works for fretwork and is necessary for compound cutting which I seem to be doing often these days.
  20. TAIrving
    Very nice cutting Wayne! Looking forward to seeing posts done with your new saw.
  21. TAIrving
    As others said, beautiful job on a beautiful piece of wood and the contouring really tops it off. We had 2 maltese, gone for several years now, and this piece touches me. I had looked for patterns of maltese and had missed this one. But now, maybe...
  22. TAIrving
    Very interesting Alex @alexfox! Nice that you are back on the forum and back at the scrollsaw. The pattern looks like it has 2 repeated parts, many copies of each. Would it be ok to stack cut some of them?
  23. TAIrving
    Here it is, finished and ready to hang on the wall. BTW, my wife has claimed it and it is to hang on our wall. Since I last posted about it, after many side-tracks and disruptions, I have encased it in clear epoxy, sanded and clear-coated it with lacquer. The wood is 3/8" mesquite and I used Pegas MGT blades, mostly #3. The finished product is roughly 7-1/2" H x 7-3/4" W. It was a fun project to cut although it took many hours. I had not originally planned to do the epoxy but the words at the bottom were fragile. There are several single bridges between the H, the N, the 3 and the 6. They broke and I had to glue them back together. You can probably see it if you look close enough. Now, with the epoxy, nothing is going to break. I will share the pattern if anyone is interested.
  24. TAIrving
    I have a 21" Pegas which I bought from Denny at Artcrafters. I love the saw and I like doing business with Denny. As I understand it, the difference between the 2 saws is the depth of the throat and the size of the saw. The action and feel of the machine at the cutting end should be the same. I have limited space and sometimes think I would be better served with a smaller machine, maybe an 18" Pegas (if they made one).
  25. TAIrving
    Similar experience here. I also go outside to knock the dust off the outer filter and I do replace it occasionally. For those who might be curious: The outer filter catches dust 5-micron and larger in size while the inner filter catches dust that passes the outer filter down to 1-micron in size and I note that the inner filter seems to stay clean. The conclusion is that the dust we create with our various woodworking is mostly 5-micron and larger.
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