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John B

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Everything posted by John B

  1. John B
    @barb.j.endersposted them up in an earlier discussion.
  2. John B
    This did not work as expected and I can't seem to delete the post: So click on the link if you would like to see three of the new puzzles I have been working on. I will post pics asap https://fb.watch/dU0GRIOOKx/
  3. John B
    I "Finish" all of my projects, which include decorations. Tree deco's I and toys I finish in a gloss lacquer, Fret worked portraits I finish with a 30% gloss lacquer. Some times I paint them in various metallic colours and or with a glitter.
  4. John B
    At the current exchange rate it's about $560 US
  5. John B
    Ray, here's their latest price. It's tax time in Oz, so companies are shedding excess stock. https://www.carbatec.com.au/scroll-saw-18-old-code-ct-ss18v
  6. John B
    I had a very similar problem with Carbatec, an Aussie company. This was a quite a few years ago. I purchased an Ex 21 and it gave up the ghost after a few weeks. I rang them and they said to return the saw, which i did. cost a small fortune, as I am 600km away. After about 4 weeks and me ringing constantly I rang the Canadian supplier. They arranged for new saw to be sent from Taiwan, direct and it took a week. Carbatec still have my original. Under Aust. consumer affairs legislation a company must have a repair completed within a reasonable time (usually a week, or 2) and if it is not done a replacement item or full refund must be given. I have since found out that if the fault is theirs, the company is also liable for postage fees both ways. Hence I have never purchased another thing from Carbatec.
  7. John B
    I find that by spraying one side only, the paper is easily removable and can be repositioned, but each time the adhesion gets weaker. For a permanent bond I spray both surfaces and once tacky, almost dry, place them together and apply pressure. Not never coming apart then
  8. John B

    Thunderbird

    John B replied to CSull's topic in Bragging Rights

    Well, that's definitely not a Ford. Nice cutting
  9. John B
    I have never cut a cross, but those look fantastic.
  10. John B
    I am really at a loss for words. Not sure if it because of the patience and skill shown, or that somebody would attempt this in the first place It truly is a masterful piece and I can fully understand why it will be unique
  11. John B
    Love him Don. He brings a smile to my face and I'm sure he does the same to your visitors.
  12. John B
    That is a magical piece Frank. The touching of the highlights with colour makes it really pop. I did grab a copy of your pattern, thanks
  13. John B

    From The Pieces

    John B commented on john nelson's article in Articles

    "You are better man than I gunga din"
  14. John B
    Pigment ink doesn't bleed like alcohol does. Also some inks will try to pull away from finished surfaces, especially gloss, so It's just a matter of finding the correct one for your needs. An ink pad and a small bottle of ink can last years. Another tip is to store your inkpad upside down.
  15. John B
    Very nice Barb. I have heard of Unicorn sh^t (Glitter) but Unicorn Spit
  16. John B
    As Kevin said, any photo /editing programme should be able to do this.
  17. John B
    If only my handwriting was as neat as that Too many years in the police force where you never really wanted people to be able to decypher your signature
  18. John B
    I don't use those, because they are to restrictive. I think you can get them inked with several types of ink, but a good rubber stamp and an ink pad does the job. You can then even use different colours
  19. John B
    This is exactly what I used on most of my products. I leave a space for my initials and or the date, depending upon the job.
  20. John B
    It really depends upon the type of ink you use. Some will bleed if stamped direct to timber, and some will not.
  21. John B
    First, why do you want to protect a "trade Mark", are you worried that somebody else is going to use it? That is the only reason I could see for going to the expense and trouble. At the turnover that you produce and the area covered by your sales, is this really a problem? I believe that anything designed by you and is unique to you would be covered by copyright laws.
  22. John B
    I know it well
  23. John B
    I also have pretty much the same, The supported flap disks, I find are not supple enough for my type of work and the brush type, I have and use them very ocasionally. I dont think they do anything that the Mac Mop and sanding mops can't do better. JMHO
  24. John B
    I have both, the Sanding mop and the Mac Mop. I have found that a 180g Mac Mop is suitable for everything I do. It will soften the edges of puzzle pieces, knock the fuzzies of fret work etc. 240g is just too fine, however if you only wanted to use it on large portrait style fretworks pieces to get soften the face, it would be good. I have not used the Sanding mop for awhile and can't remember what grit that is. I did make one using 120g belt and it works fine. A little aggressive however just the shot for rounding over those V's cnrs on toys where the router bit won't reach .
  25. John B
    I have a 305mm (12") Dewalt sliding mitre saw and it has proven to be a fantastic piece of equipment, however I think it would be a bit heavy to cart around. My Mate has Makita 260mm (10") sliding compound mitre saw and it is a little ripper. I don't think you could go far wrong with one. https://www.mitre10.com.au/makita-1400wsliding-compound-mitre-saw-260mm
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