Wichman

While at the DaFont site go to the "script" drop down menu and then select "Calligraphy", there a bunch of similar fonts there.

If you remember my posts about the spiral dragons and the bookmarks, both were cut out of a single layer 1/16" basswood on my Hegner saw, using FD Polar #2/0 blades. I used the short stroke and speed of 800-900 spm, the basswood cuts quite easily and any fuzzies clean up easily if you use a stiff backer board to sand on, I used a 320 grit sanding sponge for the cleanup, the fuzzies will be sticky so you need to remove them with light air pressure.

try this one. let us know if it works for you last supper.svg

Just a note JT, SG has been a member of SSV since joining in 2017.

A couple of things to throw out here. If you have a printer capable of printing 11 x 17 sheets then your patterns can be up to 10 1/2" wide ( compensating for 1/4" margins. If you create a page size of 24 x 36" and leave a 1/4" margin, you can take the file to OfficeMax and have them print the file for about $1 per ft. You could fit a lot of nested patterns within that space and just cut them apart vs taping pages together... just saying.

Did you check the commutator? That's the part that the brushes ride against. When you remove the brushes you can shine a light down the hole, you should see bright copper bars with spaces between them. Slowly rotate the motor to see if there's any damage or a piece of debris shorting two or more of the bars. I've had to take a motor apart and use a Dremel tool to clean out the spaces (metal fouling), then reassemble. With the brushes, did you check to see if they have a "glaze" on the face on the commutator side? That face should not be shiny, but rather a dull finish

Page 17 of the manual shows how to check the brushes and commutator for wear. Your description fits worn brushes, so that's where I would start.

The first time is kinda exciting, after that, not so much.

Garry, The patterns on the fine scrollsaw website start at about 1917 and end in the 1930's. The owner of fine scrollsaw, Pedro, has permission from Hobbies LTD to provide the patterns for free on his website. Hobbies LTD still exists (I think) but they have no patterns now, just hobby supplies. Wichita

This book has copywrite protection (I guess not from Russia). It is available from Amazon. I own this book. https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Fretwork-Scroll-Saw-Patterns/dp/0806982543/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3BVGYBK5OJNBD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.37EzIcVlgLJB6gaJRNN8oABmcggYzmDASCSkkOo-Gm3MOBs5gUabJIbdJ2r_59Y-wT680LOg30u05TFQN4o6adhVseHAysHZGlUm9fhy-YKqI4Bbails35-dirltYEl-e16PBVrJus5w0XhIIl42IvWxFK924t7A0g751LmQTtHNt2HQeJEVUqm5fwpz9Izg.K6WdomiAcyojmDU7vAobJpms5qtwDh6Lj9meMOf2wKg&dib_tag=se&keywords=classic+fretwork+patterns&qid=1748779856&sprefix=classic+fretwork+patterns%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-1

The patterns can be found at the following website. Scroll to the bottom of the page, there is a link to download the entire collection as a single zip file. I've started using a thumb drive as a backup for my scroll saw patterns to avoid what you have just experienced. https://www.finescrollsaw.com/

If I were cutting that much I would seriously consider the Hegner Poly Max saw. This saw has a 20" throat, but come with a 7 year, commercial/industrial warranty. It is pricey, $3,400 but it looks to be even more of a tank than the standard Hegner.

I found this at https://woodenteddybear.com/products/phb112-john-3-16-heart looks to be the same pattern. I searched through the pattern library as well, with the same results as you.

For illustration only: https://www.harborfreight.com/hardware/magnets/pick-up-tools/18-inch-telescoping-magnet-37187.html https://www.harborfreight.com/15-lb-capacity-telescoping-magnetic-pickup-tool-64656.html I have this first next to my saw, stuck to the stand, I use it to pick up blade clamps that go flying, so I don't have to get on my hands and knees. I have the straight version also, currently attached to my benchtop belt sander as a safety guard ( sanded a finger while reaching around the side, where the disk sander is ). handy little buggers.

I have stack cut like this before. You want to place the hardest to cut on top. If the hardest is on the bottom, you can't tell if the bottom of the blade is tracking until you've finished cutting a section. With the hardest on top the bottom portion of the blade has an easier time of tracking. I've stack cut three layers of 5/16 wood, two layers of walnut, with one layer of oak on top. Cut like a charm.

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

I know it's a typo. The fairy may be a little kinky, but whatever.

There are many sources for lamp patterns including right here in the Village, just search "lamp". an example, there are more Cherry tree toys (wildwood designs) has an assortment, generally very detailed patterns; under scroll saw patterns look in the "furniture" subsection. https://cherrytreetoys.com/products/cherub-scroll-saw-lamp-plan Sue may has some patterns https://scrollsawartist.com/search.php?search_query=lamp Fine scroll saw as mentioned above has some pretty fancy patterns. With a little imagination most fretwork designs can be worked into a 4 to 8 sided lamp base. Within the "lamp" search here on the Village are several discussions of using parchment paper and colored panels to enhance the look of the lamps.

Thank you for the follow up, this may help future questions on the Village.

If you are sure of the outlet suppling the power, the next thing I would check is the power cord; any obvious damage? Take the power cord, unplugged, and slowly work from the cord to the machine, bending the card into a gentle u shape, by doing this you want to make sure there are no "stiff" parts in the cord, and stiff parts would indicate that the cord has internal damage and needs to be replaced.

The pattern can be found on SG website by searching the blog for "ship in a bottle" or going to the blog post of Friday, April 18th, 2025. (I couldn't find it in the patterns either, I'll be e-mailing Steve shortly with this information )

I use this Electrical Receptacle Tester to test my outlets (other brands available): https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-receptacle-tester-with-gfci-diagnosis-63929.html If your wiring has an issue it may be the problem.

Do you wear prescription glasses? I do, I am very near sighted with significant astigmatism. For normal day to day use I use progressive lenses. For scrolling I use what is called a workstation prescription, single correction and everything from arms length to sitting at a desk or the scroll saw is in perfect focus; everything past 5-6 ft becomes out of focus, about 20/40 vision, so I can drive with them but I don't. For the last 20 years I had nothing but polycarbonate safety lenses and safety frames, I'm always wearing safety glasses because that's all I have. I tried the headband style, a very inexpensive pair from HF ... did not like them at all, too much distortion. When I need extra magnification I like the clip and flip lenses. These clip onto your glasses and you can flip them down or flip them up out of the way. These were inexpensive ones from HF, they were 3X, if I remember correctly, but they wore out quickly and HF discontinued them. There are other brands available on Amazon, I just haven't ordered any yet.

An owl switch plate. 1/8" BB plywood+1/8" backer, fits over the switch with the original screws. Cut as a double stack with 2/0 FD Polar blades, outside cut after laminating the backer. One coat thinned shellac, several coats glow in the dark paint. I forgot to add; owl design from a Steve Good pattern, the rest mine.

If you cut and then waterproof flat stock it will significantly improve the odds of the piece staying flat. That being said, the type of wood ( flat sawn, rift sawn, quarter sawn, etc. ) or plywood, how it was processed, and how it is/was stored all play a factor into how stable the wood is and will continue to be. The following picture is of a pair of overlays for a project I did some 20 years ago. The base broke and I saved the overlays to use in a future project. The overlays are made from some inexpensive 1/8 plywood and have been unsupported for most of the time. I have not used any special methods to keep them flat but they remain flat and ready to be used in the future project.